• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

  • Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.

    The Election forum is here: Election Forum

Side stand switch

lorazepam said:
slide the heat shrink tubing on before soldering the wires or you will do it twice.
"There is no better lesson than the knowledge one gains when one f#$%'s up." - Wayne Miller
 
flash412 said:
Two years later, black tape adhesive tape fails and tape falls off, twisted wires touch frame, blow fuse, motor dies (or refuses to start).

For a more permanent solution, solder the two wires together and then cover the joint with heat-shrink tubing.

Electrical tape is a whole lot better than masking tape, duct tape or Scotch tape !! Not everyone knows how to solder or use heatshrink-tubing.
 
So which is worse, that switch, or just spring-loading the stand to retract when you take the bike off the stand, a la Airhead? I rather like the Airhead method. One less thing to do with my feet as I'm getting ready to start rolling.
My old Brick had a goofy linkage to the clutch mechanism that either retracted the stand when the clutch was pulled, or kept the clutch from being pulled (and therefore prevented starting to be allowed due to the clutch switch not closing) depending or whether or not the bike was on the stand.
But back to the thread, I'd rather fake out the switch than buy a bunch of precious factory parts to solve the problem. Less parts, less things to go wrong, etc.
 
Veg, The ST I have has that stupid retracting sidestand. I sure wish I could put the sidestand down comfortably without having to get off the bike. I would love to have a stand like the RRS has vs that stupid spring loaded pos.
 
flash412 said:
"There is no better lesson than the knowledge one gains when one f#$%'s up." - Wayne Miller

Do it a couple hundred times and you will forget once or twice, trust me.
 
The stand issue might be a peculiarity to different models. I hear much more griping than praising about self-retracting stands on older Airhead designs. Mine is prefectly easy to deploy from the saddle- maybe it's one of those things they improved right before killing off the Airhead. I've heard also the the frame mine uses (same frame as the GS of that year) is smaller than the /7 frame- I don't know this for sure, but maybe that means that the stand mount is closer to the saddle.
Point being, a well-placed and well-designed self-retracting stand seems ideal. That, or not putting a switch on the thing and actually allowing the rider some points for having intelligence.
 
I used a short piece of wire and two male bullet connectors, crimped to the wire, then used as a jumper. Unplug the switch, attach the jumper \, no problem. You won't have to do any repairs later, just remove the jumper and reattach the switch plug.
 
lorazepam said:
Veg, The ST I have has that stupid retracting sidestand. I sure wish I could put the sidestand down comfortably without having to get off the bike. I would love to have a stand like the RRS has vs that stupid spring loaded pos.

I'm not familiar with the ST, but on the /6 I had, the spring loaded retraction "feature" could be eliminated in about 5 minutes. With the stand in the down position, if the LH engine mounting bolt that also holds the sidestand retraction spring attach gizmo is loosened and then retightened, the attach gizmo rotates just enough so that the spring tension no longer retracts the stand.
 
Back
Top