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RS fairing assembly sequence?

ezwicky

Member
Hi all,
I am finishing up the restoration of my barn-find '80 Euro-spec RS. I want to assemble the fairing, windscreen, headlight housing etc, but without the lowers for now. Can anybody here let me know of the sequence, and whether or not I can assemble in the shop floor and then mount to the bike, or do I need to mount each piece in-situ, in a particular order?

Thanks in advance,

Eric Z
Richmond VA
 
The best source I might think of is Brook Reams site. Here's a link to a post that might help:


Not sure what's going on with the links in the post, but the video should be useful.
 
The best source I might think of is Brook Reams site. Here's a link to a post that might help:


Not sure what's going on with the links in the post, but the video should be useful.
Thanks. Brook is my go-to for all things assembly related, but I didn't see what I needed to from his website, because he actually starts with the lowers where I want to omit the lowers. But I forgot about his videos, will look now.
 
On my RS I found I could assemble everything on the bench or padded ground then with help lift it into place to mount on the four main points. Of course the two lower ones are a bear to get at. Good luck, St.
 
Have the upper completely assembled before mounting. There is no other way.

You can have the headlight glass removed, but have the headlight itself mounted in the bracket first.

The little central piece around the forks is installed afterward.
 
Thanks Kent, I was away for sevearl weeks and just read this. I've got the headlight mounted already, wiring harness installed, ready for the clock, the VM and the turn signals.

Should I mount the rubber tunnel in the headlight fairing first, before I assemble the rest?

Also, should I assemble the dash / windscreen ahead of fastening to the fairing?

Thanks in advance,

Eric
 
You might notice that Kent stops by every 2-3 months...hopefully someone else has a more immediate answer for you!!
 
If you install the headlight rubber shell and headlight cover, you will not be able to access the two pain in the ass lower mounting bolts. The headlight shell and cover are easily installed after the fairing is mounted.
As for the dash and such, that is up to you, I mounted mine after the faring was in place and bolted securely, St.
 
If you install the headlight rubber shell and headlight cover, you will not be able to access the two pain in the ass lower mounting bolts. The headlight shell and cover are easily installed after the fairing is mounted.
As for the dash and such, that is up to you, I mounted mine after the faring was in place and bolted securely, St.
Thanks Steven. I have the headlight rubber and glass mounted in the headlight fairing at the monet (I just finished actually). So I should remove the rubber and glass and re-install after the uppers are assembled to the bike, or assemble to each other *before* I mount to the bike?

Which two lower mounting bolts do you mean? The ones that mount the fairing uppers to the headlight / fairing bracket?
 
LOL I have had the fairing off my RT four times in the last forty years and on the RS twice.
Yes, the two bottom bolts of the main bracket are a pain in the ass to get at with a wrench. This is on both the RS and RT fairings.
One thing I did was swap out the hex head bolts with Allen bolts so I could get a ball head Allen wrench on them.
Using the Allen head bolts is far easier than trying to get a wrench in to the tight space. Be aware however, you have to have "just the right length bolts", too long and they don't tighten because they bottom out in the fairing sleeve, too short and they don't have enough thread to properly stay tight.

Maybe I am crazy but BMW chose just a certain length bolt to do the job and it is a length that is not common in most hardware stores. I got mine from McMaster Carr. To do that you need the dimensions and thread pitch. Again, sorry I don't have that on hand anymore so I can't help there.

Good luck, St.
 
Thanks Steven. Especially for the advice to leave the headlight tunnel off until I got the fairing on and tightened. Regarding the bolts, I have a batch of M6x1 here from McMaster-Carr. The 25mm one is too long, the head hits the fairing so you can't guide the bolt through the holes because of the angle. The 20mm one is too short to leave enough space for the washers to squeeze in the fairing bracket.

HOWEVER: I was able to find the two original bolts so I used them. What's interesting is that they measure 25mm but only the threaded portion. The two from McMaster measure 25mm and 20mm INCLUDING the head. So that's a weird one for sure. The ones that work appear to be 22 or 23mm when measuring including the head.

BTW I had no trouble getting a regular old 10mm combination wrench in there. Just had to turn a little, then re-orient the wrench, then turn a little, repeat for a while until tight. What would have been great is a little stubby 10mm open-end. I might just hunt one down for future use.

Now I am having trouble finding the gasket that goes around the lens itself.... covers the glass to tunnel interface. Mine is very rigid and appears to not be sealing well. I can't find this as an orderable part anywhere I've looked so far (EME, Boxer2Valve, Max, Motoren, Motobins) nor even as part of the lens. Very odd. I'll keep searching. Maybe Motorworks.
 
I should go searching there on how to install the new wiring harness for the clock and voltmeter on my '83 RS.
 
LOL, I am glad you found the original bolts, who knows were to get aftermarket ones, I lucked out. BMW did some strange things to confound repairs sometimes that leave me scratching my head in wonder.
Try some armor all on your tunnel, it may work to soften it up a bit.

As for wiring the clock and voltage meter, Skibum, go to Brook Ream's website and look at his restorations of the 77RS or RT, he may have good pictures to help figure out what goes where. Sorry, I can't remember right now. St.
 
LOL, I am glad you found the original bolts, who knows were to get aftermarket ones, I lucked out. BMW did some strange things to confound repairs sometimes that leave me scratching my head in wonder.
Try some armor all on your tunnel, it may work to soften it up a bit.

As for wiring the clock and voltage meter, Skibum, go to Brook Ream's website and look at his restorations of the 77RS or RT, he may have good pictures to help figure out what goes where. Sorry, I can't remember right now. St.
Good idea, I'll try some armor-all.
 
Another question: The long thin round (in cross-section) gasket that seals somehow the windscreen / dash interface..... how do you all secure it? Does it go around the upper fairing, then you set the dash / windscreen over it? How do you keep it in place until you tighten the dash / screen assembly? Silicone grease or some such?

Thanks in advance,

Eric
 
Sorry, that I don't remember. In fact I don't remember a gasket at all? On the RT there is a gasket but on the RS? St.
 
OK, here's what I have learned so far regarding fairing / dash / windscreen assembly:

You have to assemble completely the three upper pieces off-bike, then slide the assembly onto the lower fairing bracket.

But before you mount it, you also have to rivet the dash to the fairing, because once the fairing is mounted, you can't reach inside with the rivet tool. The upper part of the fairing bracket is in the way along the sides. I wish I had known this before I mounted the assembly and the "behind / under" piece that forms the bottom of the front assembly (and holds the fork/fairing rubbers if you use them). It took time and fiddling to get that last piece in place and screwed in. I had to un-do all that to remove the fairing so I could rivet the dash in.

After the dash is riveted to the fairing assembly, then you can mount the whole thing (best if you have a helper, but doable solo if necessary.

Once the fairing is in place, use tghe plastic rivets to affix the windscreen to the dash.

BTW, I am finding that the 8mm rivets which are specified in the fiche are too short for my assembly. They don't protrude enough on the inside to let the tool form the flare. So I have a bunch of 10mm ones coming. Hopefully they'll work. Maybe the new paint is just thick enough to make the 8mm rivets not long enough.
 
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