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restoration of aluminum corrosion?

oven cleaner mufflers, degreaser for engine

Not an original idea, I think I've read this 'tip' in Cycle World or somewhere, a Hooker head ad 'cleaning tip' said warm the bike up then spray oven cleaner on any places where maybe a shoe sole or other substance melted or burned on to the pipes, and it will come off when left a few minutes, just like cleaning an oven.

Trying it soon.

Great tips here thanks. I've done pretty well just taking it to the spray car wash stall, hitting the warm engine area and under the oil pan, etc and my AL mag wheels with degreaser spray (no, not near lubricated areas), let it sink in a bit, brush it some and then the soap spray then water spray.

It really looked tons better and I think had I not run out of spray so early, might have got it all the way to the level of clean I'm seeking - not too new looking, she's an old gal and I don't want her looking like a harlot. That 'patina' like guys here talk about is perfect.
 
Oven cleaner on aluminum parts

Don't even think about it. Oven cleaner is caustic and will eat aluminum right before your eyes.
 
Dry Ice Blasting

There is also something called dry ice blasting that is available. It uses dry ice pellets (CO2) as the grit instead of sand, beads, etc. The advantages are that the dry ice pellets simply evaporate once they have done their job so there is no residue, the components can be cleaned without disassembly, and you don't have to worry about stuff getting into you bike internals. I have seen dry ice blasting and it works well.

The disadvantage is that you would need to locate a company that provides this service or find some place to rent the equipment. A quick google search gave the following hit for more information. Good luck.

http://www.rsg-technologies.com/ice/dry-ice-blasting-overview.htm
 
clean cases

here's what works for me.. laugh if you will. If you go to the hardware store and get some oil based aluminum paint. Usually comes in small cans. Clean the cases as best you can with whatever cleaner you want. Rinse well and let it dry. Stir the paint very well. The brass brush is a good idea. Next wrap your finger tip with an old clean rag and dip it in the aluminum paint. All aluminum paint is basically finely ground aluminum in a clear binder. Now take the rag dipped in paint and lightly dab it on the engine cases.

This will have a dendency to also seal the cases and make them much easier to clean. It also will not discolor and will look natural. When it is dry, take some 0000 steel wool and lightly brush the surface to take the glaze off. Works nice..
 
cleaning cast motor

Never cleaned BMW motor, my only experience with cleaning motors has been on two round-fin Guzzis..... they came out ok.............................

Use a 'Bead/sand blaster' and the media will find its way into places you don't want it despite however carefully you try to prevent it from happening.

Don't use a acid wash, cast pieces are porous, it very hard to wash it out completely.

Base products may cause darken the surface.

Hose down the thing with wd-40. a lot of it for several days, attache rougher areas with Brass wire brushes, the smoother parts with scotchbrite pads, and repeat until your happy....
 
Grease Remover

I was not satisfied with the results of using "Gunk" picked up something new, to me at least, at Advanced Discount Auto Parts. "Formula 88" manf by Petrij Chemical Corp, Hialeah Fl. Phone 800 556-1271. This stuff is much better than Gunk, or Mag Wheel cleaner. My wife has complained for years that she could not get the vent a hood clean. This stuff cleaned the Stainless Hood to like new. No grease remaining
I could not find a Web Site for Petruj Chemicals.Not Petro Chemicals.
 
If you want the motor or any other aluminum parts to look like new, you can do the bead or soda blasting (stay away from sand at all costs). But you have to remember that the beads will break up and get everywhere. My recommendation is if you are going to blast with anything, take it completely apart. Remove everything. Take the individual pieces to be blasted and clean them to remove all oil, grease, etc. then use rags and tape to seal off as best you can any areas that you do not want to directly blast. Then blast away. After the blasting is complete, air hose everything to remove the loose beads you can see. Then do some major rinsing with clear water. Lots of it. You need to rinse all of the left over residue from the piece, both inside and out. This can be done, but can take some time. Once you think you have rinsed everything enough, go and do it again, just to make sure.

You don't want to leave anything behind that will get into some internal part, grinding it to oblivion. There is nothing worse that being stuck on the side of the road with a ruined motor that looks real pretty on the outside. :doh
 
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