• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

  • Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.

    The Election forum is here: Election Forum

R90S Front brake rebuild video?

ebeeby

Member
Anyone have a link to a rebuild video for the R90S from brake system? I have a weeping caliper on a 20 year old rebuild. Good clean brake fluid. Probably just time for seals.
But I do not understand adjusting the concentric on these calipers after a seal rebuild and new pads.
 
I've read about the process of using a Sharpie to put radial marks on the rotor. Then when spinning the tire and applying the brakes you look at how the pads erase the marks on the rotor. The idea is you wanted to evenly erase the marks. Make adjustments of the eccentric and try again.

I was never able to make that work well. I heard about a different approach. Basically, I apply a small amount of brake pressure and then turn the eccentric one way until I feel resistance, then back the other direction to find resistance. I can then figure out where the center is when the pads are parallel to the rotor. I can then put the cap back on the eccentric.

The last thing I do is to use a bungee or something to hold the brake lever pushing the pads on the rotor overnight. This helps to allow the air bubbles to work their way out of the system. Check in the AM for decent lever movement and good response.
 
Basically, I apply a small amount of brake pressure and then turn the eccentric one way until I feel resistance, then back the other direction to find resistance. I can then figure out where the center is when the pads are parallel to the rotor.
This, precisely, is the correct technique. Now, if I can make a really bad video demonstration, I will post it here.
 
Anyone have a link to a rebuild video for the R90S from brake system? I have a weeping caliper on a 20 year old rebuild. Good clean brake fluid. Probably just time for seals.
But I do not understand adjusting the concentric on these calipers after a seal rebuild and new pads.

The eccentric pin rotates the caliper(s) so the piston side pad is perfectly aligned with the rotor. That ensure that the total area of the pads are squeezed against the rotor.

Having had my R90s for over forty years, I like to visually verify alignment and the insert a feeler gauge between the pad and rotor to verify the pad has the same clearance, and is thus aligned.

And, you can remove one of the fork axle pinch bolts to insert into the adjusting pin, (rotating clockwise obviously). When you need to remove the bolt, just apply lever pressure and back the bolt out.

When aligned/adjusted, the brakes are pretty effective IMHO. Nothing like my '04 RT servo assisted brakes, but decent nonetheless. :)
 
The eccentric pin rotates the caliper(s) so the piston side pad is perfectly aligned with the rotor.
Actually, you want the inside pad (wheel side) perfectly aligned/flat/flush with the rotor. The inside pad is fixed/immovable and must fit flat against the rotor. The outside pad (piston side) is somewhat "flexible" in that it will self-align to the fixed inside pad. Kurt's alignment procedure described above is the easiest and best way to to adjust the caliper.
 
Last edited:
Actually, you want the inside pad (wheel side) perfectly aligned/flat/flush with the rotor. The inside pad is fixed/immovable and must fit flat against the rotor. The outside pad (piston side) is somewhat "flexible" in that it will self-align to the fixed inside pad. Kurt's alignment procedure described above is the easiest and best way to to adjust the caliper.

you're absolutely right. Wasn't thinking clearly even though I've done this a million times. :)

Thanks for the correction.
 
Back
Top