R1200st bar riser support bar

[153731]

I appreciate all of your advice and help on this matter. Here is what I devised to accomodate higher bars. I did position the bars above the triple clamp and then made a cross bridge out of alum. angle,1/8th X 1 1/2 by 3/4". I meausred the distance between the bar mount base holes, where the alignment pegs held them in place, and drilled the holes exact. On the upper triple clamp there is a treaded hole
that has a set screws in it. These set screws can/do hold the alignment pegs securely in position. Remove both set screws. If they are frozen in place like mine were, you can use an Easy-out or a drill bit of slightly smaller diameter to drive them through
and out. I used a tap to assure the treads were good. Cutting the length of the alum. angle must be precise as you want to take your time to make sure it is not a losse fit.
This will eliminate any play that can work into a moving joint and cause an unsafe condition. In my case, the bike came with a crossover bracket system for a Garmin GPS. This aids in securing the placement of the bars and assures a safe riding experience.

So, I have three seperate areas of securing the bars:
1. The bar clamps
2. The alum. angle crossmember, fabricated
3. GPS cross bar mount
Do not feel that the bridge and clamps are enough. Arrange some other securing method to make sure your life is safe when riding. It could harm others. Get professional help from a machinist or simple pay the money and buy products that are already on the market. I am in no way,responsible for your actions.

Here is a photo of my setup.

 

[jimvonbaden]

Looks great! I am about to move mine, and am happy to see this post.

I have talked to a few who never used any support with no issues, but am not comfortable with that!

Jim

 

[kthutchinson]

153731,

Where exactly on the upper triple clamp are the threaded holes and set screws you mention?

 

[jimvonbaden]

153731,

Where exactly on the upper triple clamp are the threaded holes and set screws you mention?

On the underside where the locator pins are from the factory. My plan was to drill the hole all the way through and relocate the pins to the top. This looks a bit more elegant, though I will have a friend machine the crossbar that is in the first post.

Jim

 

[briana]

That'll work. I think BMW is the only bike that uses the pins to secure everything in place. Most bikes just use the triple clamp bolts and leave it at that. I have the Verholen kit, but what you did is certainly a secure and much cheaper option. Did you replace you front brake line with an RT line? My stock ST line was very tight when i moved my bars to the top of the triple tree. The RT line works great.

Brian

 

[153731]

RT brake line works

I had a line made 3" inches longer than stock. I ordered it from http://cyclebrakes.com/. They are located by Oxnard, CA and close to the Galfer Brake company. If you order it in the morning, it will ship the same day. Shipping, extended line, 2 Banjo bolts and 4 washer cost $70.00. "or" buy a RT line at the dealer for under $70.00. There is some talk that you may not need to secure the bars any other way than tighten the "1" bolt that clamps the bar mount to the forks.
Believe me that is not enough, after I put the bars above the triple clamp, I loaded my bike onto my trailer and headed for the local BMW dealer, or at least use to be a dealer, Malcolm Smith in Riverside. I went for a complete brake fluid so my warranty
would be honored if I made a mistake some how. When picking up the bike, I pulled on the tie down strap and the handle bar pivoted around the fork tube. We race dirt bikes and they have 3 bolts per triple clamp. Play it safe and make sure it has no chance of pivoting. The set screws are located in the front face of the upper triple clamp. Here is a photo to better show their position. Good Luck!

 

[jimvonbaden]

Did you tie the bike down by the handlebars?

Jim

 

[153731]

R12st handlebar cross bar for support

Yes, I did tie the bike down by the handlebars. Since then, I found an article about how the bike should be tied down and will follow that procedue in the future. I guess it was the dirty bike mentality I used. Thanks for catching what I said.

 

[jimvonbaden]

Yes, I did tie the bike down by the handlebars. Since then, I found an article about how the bike should be tied down and will follow that procedue in the future. I guess it was the dirty bike mentality I used. Thanks for catching what I said.

Yeah, that could put a large stress on that type of handlebars. Still, they shouldn't move that easily!

Jim

 

[jimvonbaden]

OK, finally moved my handlebars from below the tripple tree to above it. I had to remove the hardline retainer for the brake line to do it. I still have to make a retainer to keep the handlebars straight, as above, but my question now is; which RT brake line to get?

There appears to be 2 listed, and one of them matches the number of one of the 2 listed for the ST. And yes, I am looking at the right lines!

Here are the numbers:

ST:
01 BRAKE HOSE, STEEL FLEX 1 34-32-7-672-410 $52.07
01 BRAKE HOSE, STEEL FLEX 1 34-32-7-674-996 $57.98

RT:
01 BRAKE HOSE, STEEL FLEX 1 34-32-7-674-996 $57.98
01 BRAKE HOSE, STEEL FLEX 1 34-32-7-707-907 $68.94

I assume the bolded one is the right one, but I don't want to order the wrong one.

Thanks,

Jim

PS You should see how an RT front fender looks on an ST mudguard. Not bad at all! Lots of safety wire repairs on a busted headlight (backside only) and rear mudguard, but I saved over $1000 fixing them instead of replacing them.

 

[153731]

Proper brake line

The cable that I ordered from http://cyclebrakes.com/ was 3" inches longer than
stock and was for the Frt brake/Rt handlebar. The left is long enough and does not bind or over tightened when turning. As far as which stock brake line is the right one, I do not know. A BMW Parts Dept. may be the one to answer your question.

You are basically looking for one that extends by 2-3". A good parts man will know or can find out for you. You may ask him to check w/his mechanics, they seem to remember the small differences like that, Good Luck!

 

[bmwson]

Try the Kit from AC Schnitzer

I bought the handle bar kit from AC Schnitzer for the R1200ST. It has everything you need including cables, triple clamp, and handle bars. It is built with very high quality and looks like it came with the bike. I bought mine from A&S Cycles for $659.00 about 2 years ago.

http://www.ascycles.com/detail.aspx?ID=44375

 

[jimvonbaden]

Thanks! I already have the bars moved up.

I plan to connect the pins with a bracket, using the stock clips on the underside as a back-up so the bars do not move. The bracket will become my GPS mount. Hopefully.

But I haven't taken it off the lift to check it yet. I did disconnect the bolt holding the hard line down, and moved the throttle cable. It may be enough, but I doubt it.

Jim

PS Lots of work to get this back ridable. But from salvage to ridable in only $280, not bad.

 

[jimvonbaden]

OK, so I was inspired to do mine a bit more, so here it is.

I decided to tap the old pin holes, they were a perfect M10 tap size! Easy and quick!

I then used a piece of 1/2" by 1/8" flat aluminum. I considered angle like the previous poster, but wanted to keep it slim. I also wanted this to hold my GPS, and since it is very light, it didn't need a larger piece of metal.

Cut to 15.7mm, then angled. I drilled the mounting holes, and bent a bracket to mimic the one on my car mount. I use the GPS for both car and bike as it is waterproof. I sanded the edges smooth, and riveted the bracket to the mount, then applied a couple coats of paint. The silver is a close match to the trippletree.

Tomorrow I will get a couple of stainless M10 bolts of the right length. I am considering drilling the trippletree 1/4" deep right below the bolts to allow the M10 bolts to also hold the handlebars from turning by exiting the bottom of the handlebars into the trippletree. Not sure yet.

I have power I ran to the handlebars for the GPS, and will use the car power since the GPS does not take 12 volts. I have water sealed it already.

Anyhow, it is very stiff for the GPS, should assist in keeping the handlebars straight, and looks neet and slim!

Jim

PS Painted the RT front fender and remounted it. Still need polish, but looks good, maybe better than the ST fender!