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R1100GS Hall Sensor

W

wvrocks

Guest
So I recently had a front crankshaft seal start to leak and tore into replacing it. About the same time I read an article on ADVrider about replacing the timing chain and guides to quiet down some clacking sounds from the front of the engine. Decided to go ahead and check them out while I was doing the work. Turns out the guides were pretty worn and have been redesigned slightly since mine were installed in 1995.

Anyway, I've got that all back together including a new rotary breather seal and now I'm at the step of putting the Hall Sensor back on. I've had no problems related to the sensor that I'm aware of but I'm wondering if I shouldn't go ahead and replace it. I looked it over and compared it to the new one I have in hand and can't see any real differences. The only notable difference other than not being covered in oil from the leaky seal is on the electrical connector. The old one appears to have a date stamp from 2000, the new one 2010. Considering I have a 95 model, it looks like the Hall Sensor was replaced at some point. That would make it up to 12 years old by the date stamp on the connector.

Replace with new or stick with the old one? Thoughts?
 
Thats a good Karma / Pay it Foward sort of answer. I like it.
 
connector

Interesting. I believe the early bikes had a totally different under-tank connector. So if your 2010 harness has the same under-tank connector, then your HES was definitely replaced at some point. There have been a few reports of a replacement HES failing, but they are very rare.
If you have a new one in your hand, I would replace it. My '98 failed in about 2006 or so (I don't have the service book in front of me, but it was at about 80K I think). Carry the old one on your bike on long trips so you can be a hero to someone on the side of the road who just happens to have the same connector.
 
Yep, mine looks like Plug A in the parts diagram. Same as the new one.

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One way to make damn sure it never fails is to get a spare and throw it in the saddlebag.

Yeah, I've thought of that. I have a new one in hand and was tempted to return it as mine hasn't been an issue yet. Save $200. (10% of what I paid for the entire bike) I bought it just in case things looked bad when I tore the bike apart for the seal replacement. I'm just betting the thing will crap out as soon as the part makes it back to the dealer, giving me plenty of time to kick myself waiting beside the road!
 
Its at about 56k miles right now. I believe I'm the 2nd owner, possibly the 3rd.

Parts: Timing Chain $51, 2 Guides $14, Front Crank Seal $15, Rotary Breather Seal $22, 4 exhaust gaskets $11, 6 exhaust studs and nuts $7, Hall sensor $200 and alternator belt $23. So about $350 with shipping.

In hindsight, I could have probably skipped the chain and just replaced the guides. The chain had some stretch but wasn't bad. Its just hard not to replace something relatively inexpensive when you are that deep into the engine.

Had to buy a set of left hand drill bits and bolt extractors, and then a 8mm TimeSert kit, tap handle and and 8mm tap. One of the 6 exhaust studs twisted off in the head, then I broke a bolt extractor in it. Got all that out and installed a Timesert and chased the threads in the other 5 holes. Easily the biggest PITA of the entire project.

You have to be careful not to damage the front crank seal but it wasn't that big of a deal to install. There is a fair amount of tear down to make getting the timing cover off possible. Its not hard but there are lots of parts in the way and clearances are snug.

I'm doing all the work myself, so cost is hard to calculate. Its taken me several weeks but I also have a 5 month old baby at home so free time has been very short. If the stupid exhaust stud didn't break and I could have done all the work at once I'd estimate it could be done in a weekend without much problem.
 
Decided to go ahead and install the new Hall Sensor. Buttoned everything back up and it runs great. No left over parts either! Rattling/clacking noise from the front end is gone and so is the oil leak.

I'll pack away the old Hall unit for the next guy I find with a failed one.
 
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