R100 - Converting to Oil Cooler Question...

[olironrider]

1978 R100RS. I'm down to installing the 11 42 1 335 387, Tube, into the filter canister bottom/crankcase.

It appeared that the original non-oil cooler filter tube (short), was installed "bottomed-out" in the threaded bore of the crankcase, perhaps with "white lead paste" sealant. I fabricated a tool to remove it and did just that perfectly.

My question is: it appears that the long tube should be installed "bottomed-out", in order to compress the filter gasket rubber ring at the crankcase end, as well as compress the large black o-ring and filter against the thermostat housing?

I'm thinking someone running an "oil cooler" model might know; better yet, is the outer end of the tube "above", "flush" or "below" the crankcase parting line?

Yes, I have done the "$2,000 O-ring Calculation", arriving at a 22% compression, using the gasket, o-ring and shim. Additionally, performed "Revision A" to the right header for clearance to the thermo housing.

I'll check back later... donp.

 

[20774]

You're probably aware of this site; it doesn't really answer the question I don't think but worth a look:

http://www.largiader.com/tech/filters/

Also Snowbum's website may have some additional insight:

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/coolers.htm

 

[olironrider]

R100 - Converting to Oil Cooler, Part 2...

Thanks for the reply Kurt, as well as the links!

As things were pretty well apart, and with an inquisitive mind coupled with ugly weather outside the shop, I got out the depth micrometers.

Using the crankcase parting line (face) where the thermostat/gasket contacts as a base line, the total depth of the bore in the crankcase for the filter tube is 172mm. The depth to the flat bottom of the large canister bore is 142mm. The long filter tube is 162mm overall. The filter tube screws into the crankcase and meets resistance with about 10mm of space left in the very inboard section of the crankcase, leaving room for a fairly large bore (oil gallery) coming from the front of the engine. No obstruction of that gallery by the tube, perhaps by design.

The installed height of the filter tube on my engine, worked out to be 2mm proud of the parting line. I elected to use a very small amount of Teflon pipe sealant paste on the first three threads at installation; torqued it to 75 in/lb. The tube has no where to go really; I am confident in my work.

I could foresee a juggling act coming while managing the thermostat housing, gasket, white o-ring, black o-ring and canister shim all at once in a crowded space! I tacked the gasket to the t-housing at three locations with a drop each of instant adhesive; a touch of grease on the canister to hold the shim while the two o-rings fit snug enough to hold themselves in place on the t-housing! No "religion" lost!

The only curious thing is why are there two of the small, copper crush washers in the kit? Sure, one will be required to re-seal the bolt removed to use the "bleeder screw" for draining the cooler but, why the second crush washer? Perhaps to seal the still installed bleeder screw during initial start-up following an oil change, therefore allowing the cooler to fill with oil? Inquiring minds want to know!

Can you tell this is my first go-round with a oil cooler?

Overall, good day in the shop today!!!

donp.

 

[20774]

donp -

Glad things worked out. I can't really help much with a cooler...never actually seen one in real life!! I remember something about a banjo bolt/washer...is that where the copper washers are used? Here's a picture of the oil cooler set up that I guess you're installing:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho..._2474_BMW_R_100_RS&diagId=11_1756#11421335387

Can you track down where the washers go on here?

 

[FELAW]

oil cooler

donp -

Glad things worked out. I can't really help much with a cooler...never actually seen one in real life!! I remember something about a banjo bolt/washer...is that where the copper washers are used? Here's a picture of the oil cooler set up that I guess you're installing:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho..._2474_BMW_R_100_RS&diagId=11_1756#11421335387

Can you track down where the washers go on here?

I think Kurt is right. The crush washers go on the banjo fittings. Also, I think the main feed tube needs to protrude into the thermostat housing sufficiently to fill it with oil when the motor is running and not have all the oil run right back into the filter housing. As I recall there is a fair bit of leeway as to how far the feed tube goes into the housing.

 

[jad01]

It's a spare in case you drop the first one and it rolls out of reach under your workbench… those BMW guys thought of everything.

The large aluminum crush washers fit the banjo bolts on the oil lines, those little copper ones are for the bleed screw(s), as you suggest. According to my big Clymer manual, the copper washers also fit the bolt at the back of the thermostat housing. The Real OEM diagram Kurt is referencing above doesn't appear to agree though, so maybe not. It's been awhile since I've done an oil and filter change so I can't recall exactly, but it seems like I typically don't use the second copper washer. I'll have to look in my box of spares and see how many I've accumulated.

 

[lkchris]

My question is: it appears that the long tube should be installed "bottomed-out", in order to compress the filter gasket rubber ring at the crankcase end, as well as compress the large black o-ring and filter against the thermostat housing?

Well, the official installation instructions from BMW specify that the tube protrude 3 mm from the face of the outer gasket surface (instruction says engine block). The tube is inserted with Loctite.