Questions . . . .

[CTellman]

I have a 1993 R100RT with 60,000 miles. I have replaced pushrod tube seals, front main seal and valve cover and crankcase seals. I have purchased tools from Cycle Works and I want to replace the oil pump seal, the rear main seal and clutch plate as mine is less than 4mm.
I know I need to order a clutch plate and five bolts to bolt on the flywheel.
What else should I replace? Do I need more clutch parts? Do I need new bolts for the oil pump cover? New bolts to hold the clutch together?
I bought rear main seal and "O" rings from Cycle Works and I am confused if they should be soaked in oil before installation.
I don't have a dealer (and can't afford big $$$ for repairs) so I am thankful for the advice. BTW Clymer's is not that great.
Thanks,
Campbell Tellman II

 

[krpntr]

new output flange bolts (the short ones with no washer) yes- soak the seals.

 

[beemerguru]

Actually, there's a number of things to do..

The new seals don't need to be soaked..but they should be pressure fit before installation. Pull the guide ring out of the flywheel and press the main seal on for about 45 minutes before installation..longer is fine. This will make sure the seal edges don't curl under when you install the seal..

you do have the main seal installation "tool"..a big flat washer with holes. Seats the seal flush with the case.

On the oil pump,,make sure you clean the 4 bolts and chase the holes with a tap. Sometimes you find Locktite in there and if this isn't clean, you end up with bolts not seated all the way in...and a leaky oil pump cover. Use a bit of grease to hold the new O ring in place.

Plate wore down below 4 mm at 60K miles??!?! and it wasn't slipping!! You've been doing way too many wheelies!! or slipping the clutch way too often. Clutch disks should last at least twice that long.

You should also check/replace the clutch spring..it may be at the limit if it had to work that hard.

New drive shaft boot and the 4 drive shaft bolts..short ones/no washers.
6 clutch plate bolts and funky washers
Flywheel O ring
Oil pump cover O ring
Some people reuse the flywheel bolts..I'd rather be safe and get new ones..use locktite...same as oil pump cover bolts.

Always post a note if something doesn't make sense...and use a torque wrench

 

[beemerguru]

OH!!! and most important!!!

BEFORE you take the flywheel off...put a spacer or something between the rotor and the engine front cover to hold the crankshaft in place...so it won't move forward when you take the flywheel off...

this could be bad juju if it moves forward..could slip a spacer off some internal tabs and cause the crank to bind when reassembled. NOt good...just more time and money cause the engine needs to come apart to fix it.

 

[helmut_head]

I just did all that

It's all quite easy. Here's my basic manouver list from what I did> Alot is redundant to the beemerguru:

1) get the plastic alternator rotor bolt from Northwoods for locking the crank rearward. Install it first and bolt your front cover back on to "snug"
2) Mark all your clutch parts relative to the engine so you keep the imbalance oriented correct.
3) Remove your clutch bolts with an impact.
4) Remove clutch - I needed a prybar with a rag over it and a rubber mallet to get it offf the flywheel
5) Mark flywheel orientation. Lock your flywheel with special tool, remove flywheel bolts
6) Remove that, ummmm, "cup thingy" between flywheel and crank - special tool. Replace O-ring in cup thingy. Lube that oring up with Red sticky grease
7) Remove rear main seal- I used the tire tool in the tool pouch as a pry
8) Replace rear main, but lube it up before you shove it in. No special tool is required....really a piece of PVC and Mallet works great, just stop when it is flush.
9) Lube the rear main seal with oil. Install the "cup thingy" with flywheel bolts and the washer
10) Do the oil pump seal. Lube the seal with Red sticky
11) Install flywheel at proper orienation (not sexual). Use new bolts
12) Install clutch parts with proper orientation. Lube with all purpose grease where the springs hit the friction plate. Use special alignmement tool or you'll never get the transmission back on.
13) Put your clutch housing bolts in and do not over torque them.
14) Lube the clutch spline. Lube throwout rod tip
15) Install Transmission. May not pilot perfectly. Use a prybar with a towel over it. Then it'll snap right in.
16) Might as well replace your swing arm boot. That is the worst thing you have to do. Kind of reminds me of wearing pants that are 5 sizes small.
17) Install swingarm. Caliper the swing arm to center it within ....... .020" (?)
18) Install you new bolts in the universal/output shaft joint.

 

[mneblett]

Also while the tranny is out: Inspect the throwout bearing and the bore in the tranny in which it lives for wear/damage/rough turning/etc. They rarely fail in later airheads, but might as well check while you're in there.