Only Starts in Neutral- 2010 RT

[etiennelau]

My 2010, R1200RT only starts in neutral. Will not start while in gear and clutch pulled in. What should I look for? side stand switch or something else? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

 

[slothy]

id check with the sidestand first ..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dHXGGXKYk_E

 

[PGlaves]

Sidestand switch maybe.

Clutch switch maybe.

 

[deilenberger]

The clutch switch on the R1200 series is not long lived it appears..

I'm not sure if the RT is adjustable as the R was, but sometimes that helps. Put your ear down by the clutch lever and pull it in slowly. You should hear a click after pulling it in about 1". That's the switch. If you do hear the click and it still won't start in gear, the switch is probably defective (and can be tested with a mutlimeter - follow the wiring there is a small 2 pin connector you can check at.) If you don't hear the click the switch is probably out of adjustment, or broken.

BTDT on both my R1200R - they both eventually needed adjusting.

 

[jayjay]

I had that same problem with my 2009. It was the clutch switch (not adjustable). I had advice to check whether the cruise control still operated properly with the clutch, but it turns out that in that small assembly there are actually two microswitches - one for the cruise control and one for the starter circuit. It was a relatively straightforward replacement job but I had to pull the fuel tank to get to where the switch cable plugs in.

JayJay

 

[etiennelau]

Sidestand switch maybe.

Clutch switch maybe.

It dies when the side stand goes down. So I do not believe it is the side stand. I suspect as others have suggested the clutch switch is the culprit. Did not know there was a clutch switch.

 

[henzilla]

It dies when the side stand goes down. So I do not believe it is the side stand. I suspect as others have suggested the clutch switch is the culprit. Did not know there was a clutch switch.

Just adjusted one, replaced two last week. 1.5 mm hex screw under lever...be very careful if it does not break loose with light pressure. A little heat may be needed as some screws have a LOT of Loctite.
It can be rotated slightly to change position. If you remove it, be very careful as there is a small button that fits in a hole on switch and the setscrew tightens against...It will roll under something on your shop floor! The connector is right at switch.

If you have access to a GS-911 you can see the switch operation under realtime values and set it without a lot of guesswork

EDIT: looking at fiche, looks like 2010 RT has two options...on being a two switch unit like JayJay talks about if you have cruise

Also added year/model to your title to help in replies and future searches

 

[etiennelau]

Update on my situation with regards to the no start unless in neutral.

When I was riding home from work today with the cruise control turned on, I purposely pulled in the clutch and the cruise control shut off as designed. When I got home, I played around with the clutch lever adjustment screw and was able to produce 2 clicks. I then looked underneath to see a slotted screw and not a hex head screw. I took a chance and loosed this couple of turns and was able to shift the "micro switch" around from no clicks to 2 clicks. I adjusted so the first click occurs within the first 1" or less of travel and the second click occurs just before the last 1" of travel.

I then made a couple of test starts in 1st gear and the clutch pulled in successfully.

Thank you for everyone's help.

 

[deilenberger]

View attachment 55017
View attachment 55018
If you remove it, be very careful as there is a small button that fits in a hole on switch and the setscrew tightens against...It will roll under something on your shop floor!

On my '07 I glued that button into the hole it fit in with some plastic cement. It kept it in place, but allowed me to move it to the new switch when I eventually replaced it.

Also added year/model to your title to help in replies and future searches

GOOD MAN!

 

[tinytrains]

I just rudely discovered mine is dead too. Stalled in traffic and looked like a doofus.

Does that hex screw go in from the bottom of the lever frame? Unscrew that and the switch comes out?

Thanks.

 

[henzilla]

I just rudely discovered mine is dead too. Stalled in traffic and looked like a doofus.

Does that hex screw go in from the bottom of the lever frame? Unscrew that and the switch comes out?

Thanks.

Yes, it is really hard to see it . Loosen and try to adjust first before pulling out...and watch for the button if you do!

 

[tinytrains]

Button??? What button?
I don't see it on the parts diagram.

Thanks

 

[henzilla]

Button??? What button?
I don't see it on the parts diagram.

Thanks

I cannot find it this morning, it is on one of the models fiches...saw it the other day when I ordered a few spares.

it sits in one of the holes of the switch on the bottom where the screw contacts it.
The switch indexes the hole on top side of switch to a pin on the lever housing. Very small item which WILL fall out as you pull switch 90% of the time.

EDIT: I have had luck on the road turning the knurled knob on the lever that vibrated loose on some models to get the switch back in operation. My K12S has this happen at times and after tightening that screw one direction, started fine...my GSA has also had the knob effect the switch . It is a tiny adjustment, but does change the contact point.

 

[AntonLargiader]

It dies when the side stand goes down. So I do not believe it is the side stand. I suspect as others have suggested the clutch switch is the culprit. Did not know there was a clutch switch.

That does't compute. The only way the bike dies when the sidestand goes down is if the bike thinks it's in gear, and in that case it doesn't matter if you have the clutch pulled in or not.

The clutch switch is a starter interlock, not a running interlock. It keeps you from starting the bike in gear with the clutch out, but it will not cause the bike to shut off. The sidestand and gear position combination are a running interlock, and will cause the bike to shut off.

 

[tinytrains]

That does't compute. The only way the bike dies when the sidestand goes down is if the bike thinks it's in gear, and in that case it doesn't matter if you have the clutch pulled in or not.

The clutch switch is a starter interlock, not a running interlock. It keeps you from starting the bike in gear with the clutch out, but it will not cause the bike to shut off. The sidestand and gear position combination are a running interlock, and will cause the bike to shut off.

OP is just ruling out the side-stand as possibility. His point is that the side stand switch works. Granted they are only partially related. The starter will not turn with side stand down, but the bike will not run either. Troubleshooting is eliminating all possibilities.

 

[AntonLargiader]

I definitely wasn't clear. It was the clutch switch reference that I was referring to.

 

[tinytrains]

Mine is working again. On the Roaster it seems like a rather poor design with a very touchy adjustment. A hair off either way and the switch locks on or off.

I first tested the circuit by pulling the connector from the switch and jumpering it with a paperclip. Bike started every time. So then I pulled the lever and verified the switch moved freely and cleaned all the dirt and grease out. There was not a lot. I then applied fresh lube and put it back together. Loosening the set screw, it then took a lot of trial and error to get the micro-switch in just the right position to work reliably clutch in and out. But it seems to work now.

This may explain something else. I thought my starter was intermittent at hot, because when I stalled if traffic, it did not always engage when I pushed the button. Now I susupect the clutch switch was iffy.

Thanks for the advice, and hope the OP gets his issue resolved too.