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North Cascades Highway

OfficerImpersonator

Seattle-area Rounder
Perfect weather meant I just had to get out and ride. I've been wanting to ride the North Cascades Highway ever since I first got on a motorcycle, and I decided Sunday was going to be the day. Labor Day weekend was behind us, so the roads should be slightly less crazy than during the summer tourist season. I was out the door at 8:45 AM and on my way to the mountains!

Luckily I live only about a mile from a two lane state highway (SR 104) that quickly takes me to another two lane state highway (SR 9). Once on SR 9, I cruised north through the Snohomish River valley and then up past Lake Stevens and down again into Arlington and the Stilliguamish River valley. In Arlington I found SR 530 and headed East towards Darrington. This was a pleasant ride along a tranquil country road, framed on each side by 3000' ridge lines. Soon Whitehorse Mountains and Three Fingers are visible to the south. Upon entering Darrington I gassed up for the ride deeper into the North Cascades. While gassing up, I noticed a group of three Harley riders pass by. I would see these three again several times as the day progressed.

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The ride north out of Darrington towards Rockport was much quicker than I remembered. I quickly caught up to the three Harley riders and passed them as soon as it was practicable. All too soon I had traveled the length of the Sauk River valley and reached the Skagit River and SR 20, the North Cascades Hwy. The ride from Rockport to Marblemount is very reminiscent of the ride between Deming and Maple Falls on the Mount Bake Hwy., as the crow flies some 40 miles north.

After leaving Marblemount I quickly entered the narrowing gorge of the Skagit River and the three dams and powerhouses of the Seattle City Light Skagit River Hydro-power complex at Newhalem.

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Shortly after leaving the perfectly manicured town of Newhalem, I crossed "Gorge Creek" on a grated metal bridge. Looking down through the grates it's easy to see why it's called "Gorge Creek". I was peering down over the side of my motorcycle into a deep and dark chasm below, with a churning cascade continuing to erode the crack in the rock.

Soon after I crossed the lower arm of jade green Gorge Lake, and then began the short climb up to also-jade-green Diablo Lake. After passing the Colonial Creek Campground and Boat Launch, I began the climb up and around Ross Lake. Ross Lake isn't very visible from the road - one must use the viewpoints and look over the edge to see much of the larger lake that reaches all the way into Canada.

After the roads parts ways with Ross Lake, it begins the penultimate climb to Rainy Pass at some 4800'. A short decent follows the crossing of the Pacific Crest Trail at Rainy Pass and then the climb begins again to spectacular Washington Pass at 5500'.

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The ride home was a little too-eventful. While descending the highway along Ross Lake, I came upon a recent accident scene where a Harley rider had misjudged a curve, over-shot the pavement, and had gone down in the dirt at the base of the embankment on the outside of the curve. I helped the Park Ranger who had just arrived on the scene lift the bike up and off the rider, who was in obvious pain. The rider's wife, who had been on the rear seat, appeared uninjured, but she was distraught as it appeared her husband had a broken leg or ankle. She asked me to wait with their bike until the tow truck arrived as she wanted to accompany her husband to the hospital in the ambulance. Amazingly, the tow truck arrived before the ambulance! As it was a tight corner, and the highway was busy due to the amazing weather, I left as soon as I could to get myself and my bike out of a dangerous situation. I hope the rider is okay and can get back out there again!

While stopped at the roadside, I saw the three Harley riders from Darrington, still heading east. They must have stopped for a two hour lunch to be this far behind me!

The rest of the ride was without incident, save getting pulled over and considered for a performance award by a young State Patrol Trooper. I think he was surprised that the motorcyclist was endorsed, insured, and on a properly registered vehicle as he let me go with only a warning for going 63 in a 50 after reviewing all my paperwork.

All told, the ride was 290 miles. Maximum speed was 89 mph. Average speed was 51 mph. Not bad for an interstate highway-free day of riding!
 
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