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New Lady rider with questions
- Thread starter new2mer1200c
- Start date
pauls1150
MOA #24991, south of Los Angeles
Lithium batteries require a specialized charger which most folks don't have, and the bike's alternator/regulator probably won't be able to keep it fully up either (I'm just guessing on this one).
Also, the battery is pretty well centered in the bike - while it may seem "high up", gasoline is about 6 pounds per gallon... If you're concerned about "leverage", consider slightly lower handlebars in the future. But get more road experience first - it may easily become a Non-issue.
Save your cash and get a "normal" battery, if that is the problem. Or at least save even more and start with a decent charger to hook up to it; unless it's truly toast, most batteries can be recovered.
As Kurt sez, measure the voltage first - but a more complete picture can be had by measuring with the key off, then key on but engine not running, key on and running at idle, and then at 3000 rpm (to show the charging from the alternator). Harbor Freight has little cheapo DVMs (digital voltmeters) that are good enough for this task; you don't need scientific precision here.
Careful about how the manufacturer specs the power of the extra LED lights - they may just be "50-watt equivalent". If they actually consume 50 watts each, that's 4.16 amps (at 12 volts) each, which is pretty significant, but if the spec is really "equivalent", the current would be somewhat less. Check the manufacturer's spec on his website.
Here's a list of the ABS fault light codes; I don't know if your year or particular model may be different.
Gen OFF, ABS ON = Only residual braking in both circuits.
Gen OFF, ABS flashes at 1 Hz = ABS not available. Pull-away test not completed.
Gen OFF, ABS flashes at 4 Hz = Only residual braking function available in both circuits.
Gen ON, ABS off = rear light/brake light defective.
Gen ON, ABS flashes at 1 Hz = At least one brake circuit without ABS.
Gen ON, ABS flashes at 4 Hz = At least one brake circuit in residual braking function mode.
Gen AND ABS flashing alternately at 1 Hz = Fluid level in Integral ABS too low, or Low voltage.
If you need professional, er, mechanical help, ask right here - somebody should be able to steer you toward a nearby competent wrench.
Also, the battery is pretty well centered in the bike - while it may seem "high up", gasoline is about 6 pounds per gallon... If you're concerned about "leverage", consider slightly lower handlebars in the future. But get more road experience first - it may easily become a Non-issue.
Save your cash and get a "normal" battery, if that is the problem. Or at least save even more and start with a decent charger to hook up to it; unless it's truly toast, most batteries can be recovered.
As Kurt sez, measure the voltage first - but a more complete picture can be had by measuring with the key off, then key on but engine not running, key on and running at idle, and then at 3000 rpm (to show the charging from the alternator). Harbor Freight has little cheapo DVMs (digital voltmeters) that are good enough for this task; you don't need scientific precision here.
Careful about how the manufacturer specs the power of the extra LED lights - they may just be "50-watt equivalent". If they actually consume 50 watts each, that's 4.16 amps (at 12 volts) each, which is pretty significant, but if the spec is really "equivalent", the current would be somewhat less. Check the manufacturer's spec on his website.
Here's a list of the ABS fault light codes; I don't know if your year or particular model may be different.
Gen OFF, ABS ON = Only residual braking in both circuits.
Gen OFF, ABS flashes at 1 Hz = ABS not available. Pull-away test not completed.
Gen OFF, ABS flashes at 4 Hz = Only residual braking function available in both circuits.
Gen ON, ABS off = rear light/brake light defective.
Gen ON, ABS flashes at 1 Hz = At least one brake circuit without ABS.
Gen ON, ABS flashes at 4 Hz = At least one brake circuit in residual braking function mode.
Gen AND ABS flashing alternately at 1 Hz = Fluid level in Integral ABS too low, or Low voltage.
If you need professional, er, mechanical help, ask right here - somebody should be able to steer you toward a nearby competent wrench.
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pauls1150
MOA #24991, south of Los Angeles
True, but get a DVM, and a then maybe quality charger [check these threads for that - Optimate maybe], first -
Why throw money at it if you're not positive that that is the problem...?
Plus, you can keep the tools forever and use them for other applications too.
One more thing, speaking of batteries - Susan, have you had the opportunity to see if your battery has caps on the top for distilled water? Maybe it's just a bit low, or maybe it's sulphating (buildup of off-white grainy crapitation on the terminals or inside). And verify that the battery cable hardware is pretty snug; a poor connection can cause odd intermittent issues. Always check the easy stuff first...
And by the way, while the Odyssey line is popular for a good reason, I've never had a Yuasa fail that wasn't already old or otherwise abused.
Why throw money at it if you're not positive that that is the problem...?
Plus, you can keep the tools forever and use them for other applications too.
One more thing, speaking of batteries - Susan, have you had the opportunity to see if your battery has caps on the top for distilled water? Maybe it's just a bit low, or maybe it's sulphating (buildup of off-white grainy crapitation on the terminals or inside). And verify that the battery cable hardware is pretty snug; a poor connection can cause odd intermittent issues. Always check the easy stuff first...
And by the way, while the Odyssey line is popular for a good reason, I've never had a Yuasa fail that wasn't already old or otherwise abused.
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Eugene.new2mer1200c
New member
I have not had a chance to look under the tank yet...but will do so soon. I have just been trying to practice and get as much seat time as possible. Take my written test for permit at DMV on Thursday.
The bike seems fine per say. It does not run as if it has a low battery....just the ABS lights blinking all the time. If the battery were low or having problems or at the end of its useful life wouldnt the battery light that is next to the Neutral light come on?
I have not check volts or anything like that yet either. Not sure I know how to do it...but will try.
So chromeheads would be a better forum for me to also use for this model BMW????
Susan
The bike seems fine per say. It does not run as if it has a low battery....just the ABS lights blinking all the time. If the battery were low or having problems or at the end of its useful life wouldnt the battery light that is next to the Neutral light come on?
I have not check volts or anything like that yet either. Not sure I know how to do it...but will try.
So chromeheads would be a better forum for me to also use for this model BMW????
Susan
pauls1150
MOA #24991, south of Los Angeles
The "battery" light is a misnomer: it doesn't tell anything about the battery, it is actually a monitor for the alternator (and regulator) output, the charging system as a whole.
On some bikes it's called "GEN", for generator... even tho they likely don't have generators, they have alternators...
As I noted earlier, I'm not familiar with the specific differences that the Cruzer version has, but I'd expect to see the "battery" light when the key is on but the engine is not running, and also if the idle drops low enough for the engine to almost quit.
Forums - don't skip this one, but add the Chromeheads as an additional resource. They will (probably) be able to point out any specific differences or idiosyncracies.
And speaking of resources - Now that you're a member of the MOA, break out that Anonymous Book and find other riders close to you, your local club, and maybe even a local non-factory shop (which will be cheaper than an "authorized dealer" and hopefully as good... ask around...). YouTube has videos of servicing many bikes, so do a search there too.
Have a look at https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?47142-Resources-and-Links
On some bikes it's called "GEN", for generator... even tho they likely don't have generators, they have alternators...
As I noted earlier, I'm not familiar with the specific differences that the Cruzer version has, but I'd expect to see the "battery" light when the key is on but the engine is not running, and also if the idle drops low enough for the engine to almost quit.
Forums - don't skip this one, but add the Chromeheads as an additional resource. They will (probably) be able to point out any specific differences or idiosyncracies.
And speaking of resources - Now that you're a member of the MOA, break out that Anonymous Book and find other riders close to you, your local club, and maybe even a local non-factory shop (which will be cheaper than an "authorized dealer" and hopefully as good... ask around...). YouTube has videos of servicing many bikes, so do a search there too.
Have a look at https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?47142-Resources-and-Links
bobs98
Hey Chromehead !
Welcome Susan!
Definitely come on over and register at www.chromeheads.org for all things related to the R1200C family of bikes, and a great group.
My clutch lever goes way out before engaging also.
Paint code should be on the rear fender under the seat. Looks like Toscana Green to me.
You have BMW factory engine guards on your bike. Are you looking to replace them?
ABS lights flashing could be due to one of several possible faults, including the tail light / brake bulb. Dealers can do a reset if all is well, or you may be able to do it using a GS-911 diagnostic tool.
Glad you are getting licensed, but consider taking the MSF Basic Course, and apply for a Paul B. scholarship thru the MOA Foundation. Most provide smaller bikes that will help you get a feel for the "mechanics" of riding.
Shoot me a Private Message if I can be of further help.
Definitely come on over and register at www.chromeheads.org for all things related to the R1200C family of bikes, and a great group.
My clutch lever goes way out before engaging also.
Paint code should be on the rear fender under the seat. Looks like Toscana Green to me.
You have BMW factory engine guards on your bike. Are you looking to replace them?
ABS lights flashing could be due to one of several possible faults, including the tail light / brake bulb. Dealers can do a reset if all is well, or you may be able to do it using a GS-911 diagnostic tool.
Glad you are getting licensed, but consider taking the MSF Basic Course, and apply for a Paul B. scholarship thru the MOA Foundation. Most provide smaller bikes that will help you get a feel for the "mechanics" of riding.
Shoot me a Private Message if I can be of further help.
pauls1150
MOA #24991, south of Los Angeles
And speaking of batteries...
I did a parts run between shops today, and Valdi told me of his recent experience at Laguna Seca:
The night before they left, he put a brand-new lithium battery in his ride, after having it on a Proper charger overnight. (Being a shop, he has all the right stuff and doesn't pay full retail for parts.) Bike fires up and off they go.
At the first gas stop, they all fill up, he hits the starter... Nothing, not even dash lights. He gets a jump, it fires up, and off they go. At the next gas stop, it fires up too, so he figures "I must've left a light on or something last night..."
After the races, he hits the button - Nothing. Gets a jump, off they go.
Next two gas stops - jump again required.
After getting back, he pulls the new battery out. No load: shows 13-something volts. Puts it on his battery tester. Under load, it dropped to about 6 volts.
So, one brand-new battery NFG (military for Non-Functional Gear) out of the box.
I didn't ask the brand.
see also addendum to post 25.
I did a parts run between shops today, and Valdi told me of his recent experience at Laguna Seca:
The night before they left, he put a brand-new lithium battery in his ride, after having it on a Proper charger overnight. (Being a shop, he has all the right stuff and doesn't pay full retail for parts.) Bike fires up and off they go.
At the first gas stop, they all fill up, he hits the starter... Nothing, not even dash lights. He gets a jump, it fires up, and off they go. At the next gas stop, it fires up too, so he figures "I must've left a light on or something last night..."
After the races, he hits the button - Nothing. Gets a jump, off they go.
Next two gas stops - jump again required.
After getting back, he pulls the new battery out. No load: shows 13-something volts. Puts it on his battery tester. Under load, it dropped to about 6 volts.
So, one brand-new battery NFG (military for Non-Functional Gear) out of the box.
I didn't ask the brand.
see also addendum to post 25.
Normally that would be true. But, not with an Oilhead. Your bike checks the ABS system when the starter is running, instead of after the engine starts to run. With the starter running, the voltage will be lower, and this can trigger a false problem with the ABS. The Odyssey battery has a slightly higher voltage, and helps prevent the ABS from tripping an error (alternating ABS lights). If your bike starts to trigger errors all the time, that is a good indication that your battery is near the end of it's life. When it is cold outside, your bike is more likely to trigger an ABS error.
To reset the ABS:
There is a blue connector under the seat.
Remove the cap to the blue connector
Attach the wire to the middle connector, and attach the other end of the wire to a metal part attached to the frame (like a small bolt)
While pushing down the ABS button, turn on ignition
Keep holding down the ABS button for 10 seconds
After 10 seconds, turn off the ignition, and remove the wire
Now the ABS system should be reset.
If the ABS system isn't reset, check to make sure you have a good connection on the wire.
You can use a regular wire, or find a wire with alligator clips on both ends. I think you can find a wire with alligator clips at Walmarts (auto section).
On my bike, I keep a wire permanently attached to the blue connector (and grounded). So, in cold weather I can reset it without getting off the bike. My Odyssey battery is now 7 years old, so it is starting to trip it more often.
Rinty
New member
Susan:
No worries; most of us here don't wrench on our bikes. Let your tech check it; it should be an easy fix.
Any new bike involves a learning experience, with the steepest learning curve being on your first.
Welcome, and good luck.
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