need bicycle recommendations

[roostershooter]

So, my doc recommends that I start riding a bicycle for exercise, seems it would have less impact on my back as opposed to walking. So, I start looking at bikes and there are more choices than I can take in at one time. Does anyone have any suggestions? I think I would be more inclined to stick with asphalt riding as opposed to mountain bike riding and I don't have any ambition to be Lance Armstrong. I think I would be happy to just ride for the exercise and maybe use the bike to run errands to the store and the like. Any suggestions?

 

[rkoreis]

Forget about focusing on bikes and instead focus on the shop. After looking at websites for bike shops in Knoxville, I'd suggest you check out Harpers Bike Shop http://www.harpersbikeshop.com/. They have a variety of types of bikes from good manufacturers. Explain your situation and what you plan to use the bike for. Let them make recommendations. A key element is fit. If the bike isn't fitted correctly, you will not only not enjoy riding it, you could also hurt your knees, spine, John Thomas, and other areas.

See if you get a good feel from them. When living in Tacoma I developed a relationship with a shop and still maintain that relationship even though I'm 2.5 hours away. SWMBO just bought a used bike from them. That's another option you could enquire about. Some shops have bikes they are selling for customers. Maybe they have one that is the right size for you. That's a less expensive option since you'll probably want to upgrade in a few years regardless of what you buy the first time.

And finally, friends don't let friends ride ShimaNO. I like Campagnolo components. When ShimaNO breaks/wears out, you throw it away and buy new. If Campy breaks/wears out, you repair it.
_____
Waterford 2200, Hypercanary Yellow
Bottecchia, White
2002 R1150 RT, "Concorde"

 

[rad]

And finally, friends don't let friends ride ShimaNO. I like Campagnolo components. When ShimaNO breaks/wears out, you throw it away and buy new. If Campy breaks/wears out, you repair it.

Telling a guy to buy the best equipment made in the world for his entry level bike..silly advice.

As for bike recommendations, start talking to the bike shop folks, test ride bikes and see what you like.

Go here for great advice. http://www.bikeforums.net/

 

[bob_m]

Mike
Rkoreis makes good sense recommending that you open a relationship with a good shop and get a bike that is a good fit to you. A good shop will have a "fit bike" which is a bike frame on a stand with everything adjustable. They can lengthen the frame, raise the frame as well as the seat and handlebars.

You say that bicycling causes less impact on your back, I assume, than running. If you have been running you probably begin with a good baseline of fitness, so I think the "hybrid" style (Mt bike frame with road fitment) might quickly prove to be less than satisfying. I think a "touring" style bike might be the ticket. These have the drop bars like a racing bike, but they are not set so low. A touring style bike will have a triple chain ring so you can climb those hills, and generally this style bike has a longer wheelbase and is solidly built so the handling is stable and relaxed.

I too am a Campy snob, but I think at this point in your bicycling career the differences would not amount to much. One component I would avoid is the "Avid" brakes. They squeal and this can not be fixed (Toeing in, toeing out, different pads, scrubbing the rims, Nothing works) Hayes make good disk brakes, and disk brakes are awesome.

Pace yourself at first, the biking is a different muscle group than the running. You will be surprised how your first hill climb works your lower back. You will also be delighted how, after juicing up on endorphines on a climb, the downhill glide just makes you giddy.

Just like with motorcycles - ATGATT - for all the same reasons.

The best, and keep us posted.

 

[Rinty]

Get a hybrid for starters; not an expensive one. Then you can go from there.

 

[bunkyone]

Hey all; Some good advice here, especially the "pick a good shop" part. Stay away from the "big box" stores, as they do a miserable job putting their bike together. I used to work in a small shop down down state and we loved the week after Christmas!! We would get dozens of department store bikes in for repair or proper assembly. As far as bike type goes, for casual use, you can't go far wrong with one of the "city" style bikes. These are a something with a long, relaxed wheelbase, fairly wide wheels, (not mountain bike size, but wider then your typical "racer" wheel), and if possible, a suspension system. (the O.P. already has a bad back, why make it worse?) As far as components go, while Campanolo is good stuff, for an entry level bike they are overkill. Any of the mid-range Shimano groupo's would be the way to go. Good luck and happy riding. Vaya con Dios Dutch

 

[hlothery]

I have a hybrid. I'm 215lbs, and I kept breaking spokes on my road bike. The hybrid has larger tires, a larger seat (much better!) and upright bars (so that my liver isn't pushed into my lungs and cutting off my breathing!). I use bar ends with padding for most of my riding. I have three chainrings and a 7 speed gearset, that gives me plenty of options for hills (titanium knees, you know). I agree with establishing a relationship with a bike shop and then letting them advise you. I also have a Vision Fitness stationary bike at home for use each morning prior to work, or if it's raining/cold. Love bicycling.......I believe it is a fantastic way to stay strong and aerobically fit, while protecting your weight-bearing joints from the impact of running. (And a future of titanium!)

 

[crazydrummerdude]

I have a Trek. I like it.

I guess someone needs to support a shop, but you can find cheap (or free) bikes on craigslist... and you can fix (or setup) them yourself.

 

[ragtoplvr]

Once you reach the point where you ride some miles, fit becomes critical.

A good shop will get the right size frame, and set the seat where it should be for maximum comfort. There are huge differences in seat comfort. They even make seats of different widths to match your sitting bones. It is worth it.

Clip-ons when you get in better shape, lots of money but worth it.

They will let you ride several bikes. It is part of the service. If they don't find another shop.

Be sure to get a under seat bag, 2 spare tubes, patch kit, tire irons, and know how to patch one.

2 drink holders, is also good.

 

[OHScot]

Don't go wild

I have a high end Felt road bike and a $80.00 Huffy mountian bike. I ride the Huffy more. No locks no cleaning no mainitance no worrys it is largely disposable. I would bet it is better exercise weighs a ton. Before you piss away $2000.00 just find something that rides well. Craigs list is full of gently used bikes. You can always ramp up if you get the bug to be a Hammer.

 

[mistercindy]

A few years ago I decided to buy a bike. After much reading I ordered a Gunnar Sport frame with a Shimano 105 groupo, and a honey colored Brooks B17 titanium saddle. (Gunnar LINK) (Brooks LINK). I had it built in December of 2004. Its a great road bike but is less aggressive than a true racing road bike (Gunnar's racing road bike is called the Roadie). Gunnar's paint selection is poor, IMHO. But they're built by Waterford (run by Richard Schwinn, of the well known Schwinn family), and for a few extra dollars they'll put any Waterford paint on it that you'd like. The whole package was ~$1,400, and I figure I'll ride it forever. BTW, Gunnar no longer makes the Sport frame. They've replaced it with what they call the Grand Touring frame. IMHO, if you want steel you can't beat Gunnar for the money. Great customer service (if you call, Richard Schwinn is very likely to answer the phone). And its a wonderful ride.

If I ever move up to a true custom bike (always steel ), it'll be a Waterford. (Waterford LINK) The Waterford shop is built around the old Schwinn Paramount shop, kept by the Schwinn family after they sold off the rest of the Schwinn assets. A new Waterford, depending on how its set up, will run at least $2,500 and could be twice that. But the craftmanship is incomparable. Some day.....

It doesn't take long for people to pipe in about Shimano vs Campagnolo. IMHO it doesn't amount to much. There's a certain snobbery around Campagnolo, but then, they make a heckuva product. But Shimano's stuff is superb. If you aren't a hard core rider I think the differences are meaningless. Any Shimano will last a long time if not for a lifetime. Same's true for Campagnolo. Lots of races are won by both. My 105 is the least expensive Shimano, is very smooth, and is as good today as the day I bought it. YMMV.

BTW, check out the Harris Cyclery web site (LINK). Lots of good articles and blog-like thoughts there.

Finally, I'll second or third the suggestion to find a small shop where you can get to know the people. I found a guy with a small shop who builds a lot of custom bikes for big money. We sat down together, talked about what I was willing to spend and what I wanted out of a bike. Then he measured me up, ordered the parts, and built my bike. The bike is exactly what I want, fits me perfectly, and I spent no more than I would have spent for a ready made bike at a big-box bike store.

Before you piss away $2000.00 just find something that rides well. You can always ramp up if you get the bug to be a Hammer.

Good suggestion.

 

[roostershooter]

Thanks for the opinions guys. This will give me a starting point and a bit of knowledge to begin my search. Can't comment on the Campagnolo preference but at least I know what is out there now. Will keep you posted on my search.

 

[ultracyclist]

take your time

Visit some local bike shops that have ability to fit you for a bike.
Note the use of the word "fit".
Fit means more than just being able to clear the bar with your crotch.
Very often these shops will support a racing team or two or race themselves.
You do not need a racing bike, but these people will know how to fit you given your constraints.

Your posting is quite timely. I have re-habbed my back twice in the last 18 months. I plan on being re-fitted for a bike with a more upright style of riding. My seat and foot positions will remain the same, but I will be sitting closer to the handlebars and the handlebars will be higher.

One last comment: Be sure to get cycling shoes with internal cleats and matching pedals. Shoes are the critical links in the bicycle propulsion system. When you think about, the shoes must accommodate stress continually over 360 degrees! Tennis shoes or sneakers will work for about an hour and then fatigue sets it. The combo of cleats and shoes will keep your foot where it is supposed to be for efficiency, and help prevent other injuries. The pedals will have tension adjusters in them so you can quickly disengage the cleats and put your foot on the pavement. Plan on riding on grass for a few minutes until you get the hang of them.

Depending on manufacturer, you can pick up a really nice bike -for your purposes- for about $500-$600.
Shoes plus pedals: $225.
Good bike helmet: $ varies on style.
A couple pr of Pearl Izumi cycling shorts: $70 ea
2 water bottle holders, a bell, batt's and lights, energy drinks, sun block, fanny pack, camera, bee sting kit, tire repair kit, tire pump---have fun!

 

[bob_m]

.... Craigs list is full of gently used bikes....

FWIW Craigslist is also a distribution network for stolen bikes.

There is some validity to the heavy cheap bike school of thought. If you are going to shop, or stop for a pop, and lock the bike outside, a 20 Lb. bike needs a 20 Lb lock, but a 40 Lb bike only needs a one Lb lock.

When one considers that every 5 Lbs of bicycle weight savings cost several hundred dollars, it is good to remember that nachos, pizza and beer contribute to the bike/rider package, and that weight savings can be attained cheaply.

as I weigh 220 pounds, this las bit of information is purely theoretical

 

[OHScot]

FWIW Craigslist is also a distribution network for stolen bikes.

There is some validity to the heavy cheap bike school of thought. If you are going to shop, or stop for a pop, and lock the bike outside, a 20 Lb. bike needs a 20 Lb lock, but a 40 Lb bike only needs a one Lb lock.

When one considers that every 5 Lbs of bicycle weight savings cost several hundred dollars, it is good to remember that nachos, pizza and beer contribute to the bike/rider package, and that weight savings can be attained cheaply.

as I weigh 220 pounds, this las bit of information is purely theoretical

It is always a good idea to ask for paperwork or a receipt when buying from any list. Seperates the chaff really quickly. As stated above bikes are theft prone items.

My Huffy has never been in danger of theft, I should probably have a tetnus shot though....

 

[TANDEMGEEK]

Any suggestions?

Pay a visit to Cycology Cycles in Maryville out on Lamar Alexander Parkway.
http://www.cycologybicycles.com/Cycology_Bicycles/Home.html

Ask for Tim P. or see who he recommends on his staff to work with as you sort out your needs and issues related to fitting, cycling apparel, etc...

Even if you don't buy your bike there, they are a good shop with a wide variety of bikes and accessories and the advice you'll receive will give you your best shot at a successful entry into the cycling sport.

I have no financial interest in the shop, but I've known Tim for about 12 years. He was a general contractor and cycling enthusiast who decided to retire from building and manage the shop while he was building the structure the shop is now housed in. Great guy with a lot of enthusiasm but who also understands that there are all kinds of cyclists with all kinds of different needs.

 

[bunkyone]

Hey all (again): Several folks have mentioned "fit" in this thread. Someone pointed out that it is more then just can you clear the frame top tube. This is correct. Of real concern is both the reach to the bars, and Most important, the "stroke" of the pedals. Too often someone will lower a bike seat to be able to touch the ground with a foot. This will shorten the stroke to the point where the leg isn't getting enough extension, there by putting more pressure on the knee joint. You want the seat high enough to assure that, when the pedal is at bottom dead center, the leg is almost fully extended. You want to keep maybe 5 degrees of bend in the knee joint, but not much less. This will allow you to deliver maximum energy to the pedals. As far as "clip on's" go, I have really weird feet and can't wear cycling shoes. I have to use the old reliable toe clips and straps. When adjusted properly, they work almost as well as clip on. (plus they are easier to walk in after the ride) Boy this thread brings back memories!! Vaya con Dios, Dutch

 

[kbasa]

Allow money for a bike computer. If you're working on fitness (I assume cardiac fitness) a computer that measure speed, cadence (how many rpms you're pedaling) and heart rate will be key. You're going to want to train inside your aerobic range for maximum benefit. If you go out and just start thrashing and are outside your heart rate range, you'll have wasted your time.

Your HR is your tach.

 

[MAYLETT]

As a long-time cyclist, I'm going to offer some advice that will run against the grain of most serious cyclists' thoughts.

Riding bicycles is fun and it's great exercise, so no controversy there, but...

Serious cyclists can be a snobby bunch who tend to go in for all kinds of expensive, if not genuinely useful, gear designed to perform mystical feats like shaving quarter seconds off 50-mile journeys. I once got into an argument with a mechanic at a bike shop who sneered at my request to drill out the holes in the rims of an old bike to fit shrader valve stems. When I told him I was planning to trim my toenails to compensate for the added extra weight of the shrader valves, he suggested that I leave his shop.

My point is for a beginning, not-yet-so-serious biker who just wants a good, solid bike to ride in order to get some exercise, don't let yourself get bamboozled by the mystical fanaticism of the lycra-wearing crowd. By all means, visit a good bike shop, but if the sales guy starts touting the need for ultra-light-weight carbon composite frames, high-tech add-on components, infinitely adjustable suspensions and then turns his nose up at your suggestion that maybe you really don't want to bolt your feet to the pedals of your new bike, politely leave the shop and go elsewhere.

Like you said, you're not trying to emulate Lance Armstrong, and since you likely don't plan shaving off all your body hairs to reduce wind resistance, so you probably won't benefit from paying an extra thousand dollars to reduce the weight of your bike an additional two pounds. Personally, when I'm out for exercise, I prefer my older, heavier mountain bike that requires a little more effort and doesn't break when I run it over a curb or take it on a dirt trail.

My most important recommendation is to get the bike that feels best, is most comfortable and is sturdy enough to do what you want it to do without breaking. Ride it for mile or so before agreeing to buy it. Don't feel compelled to buy the latest, fanciest, lightest, name-brand, extra in and trendy stuff just because failing to do so might seem uncool to "real" cyclists. You can get a dang good bike for under a thousand bucks. It might be a little heavier, not have the lastest, coolest, most "in," brand of mechanical gizmos, but honestly, based on your reasons for getting a bike, you don't need them.

Flats are a constant problem, so tire liners might be a good idea, along with a compact, easy-to-carry-along tire changing kit and a portable pump (again, cyclists will often argue). After a month or so on the seat that came with your bike, you might want to get one that is more comfortable. I'd recommend giving it a while to get used to, though, before buying another. Sometimes, it takes a while to get your butt adjusted.

My wife and I have spent many thousands of dollars on custom-fit bikes and bike gear over the years, and honestly, my favorite bike is an old, no-suspension Bridgestone mountain bike with flat pedals that I take up into the hills wearing a T-shirt and biking shorts — the multi-thousand dollar Orbeas and Sevens spend most of their time hanging out in the garage.

 

[ragtoplvr]

Hey all (again): As far as "clip on's" go, I have really weird feet and can't wear cycling shoes. I have to use the old reliable toe clips and straps. When adjusted properly, they work almost as well as clip on. (plus they are easier to walk in after the ride) Boy this thread brings back memories!! Vaya con Dios, Dutch

I have really wide feet with a high arch and Sidi makes shoes that fit, pricey, but fit. Also almost any shoe repair place can alter a quality shoe. The reduction in foot pain was worth the expense. Seems strange when the shoes and clip ons are worth as much as the rest of the bike. Farkling, not just for motorcycles anymore.

Again a good bike shop will be able to fit you.

And +1 on the computer.

Carry pepper spray. Dogs like to chase, and you always seem to get a flat in front of where the mean dog lives.

read

http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/humor/flattire.htm

The guy is an optimist.

Rod