Rather than piggyback on BP@9r's thread on tps woes, I have a simple question. How do you tell if your TPS is bad? Short version is that my tps is very very difficult to adjust and get a constant voltage. I can just place my hand on it with a miniscule amount of pressure while the screws are locked down and watch the voltage jump around. Earlier today I used Roger's method of setting tps to 250mv and then using throttle stop screw to achieve .350mv. Fired the bike up and it ran, though very rough. Attempted to use right throttle stop screw to balance it out a little. Still ran rough. Shut down and took a long lunch break. When I came back, just for a kicks I turned the key on and voltage was 580mv without touching anything. Decided to fire it up and it ran much better but at a high idle for a cold bike (1100rpm) Fast idle was not on and there was slack in that cable. I left the dvm on and as the bike warmed up, the voltage from the tps started dropping and eventually settled around 360-380mv. That is without any adjustments or input on my part. As the voltage dropped the bike seemed to run worse with more pops and sputters. I shut it down and came here seeking advice. The most annoying thing is this morning when I was trying to initially set the tps, it would take almost no movement of my hand and the voltage would jump from 160mv to 400+mv.
I have done the old Zero=Zero procedure on 93 rs I used to own with no issues.
BTW, the bike in question is a 96 R1100RSL w/ approx 51k miles. Yellow cat code plug.
Anyone want to take a guess?
I have done the old Zero=Zero procedure on 93 rs I used to own with no issues.
BTW, the bike in question is a 96 R1100RSL w/ approx 51k miles. Yellow cat code plug.
Anyone want to take a guess?