ted
Dum vivimus vivamus
Not for the bike, for me - the last time I lubed the splines of a K75 I owned was in 1997. Until today 
I had set about to change the engine oil and filter, final drive oil and put in new EBC FA18 rear brake pads last weekend at my garage of choice, namely the driveway, and got as far as the fluids. Though many profess great ease in changing brake pads on a plank in a driving rain storm, one handed, I could plainly see I needed more than the tool roll and a better set up. I also felt just a twinge of unease about the complete spline lube a dealer had done just 10k ago, when I called they mentioned they used nickel-based anti-sieze which from what I understand is fine for the clutch (which operates smoothly with ease) but not such a great choice for the splines in the rear on either side of the drive shaft. I decided to buck up, blow the $300 or more and have a pro do it.
So I was flipping through the TV two nights ago and came across that Steven King movie Christine, specifically the part where he is at a "rent a bay" repair shop.
Eureka!
Convinced there must be one of these in the DC area I started googling and quickly found "Do It Yourself Mechanic" in Sterling, VA. For the princely sum of $12 an hour I got a professional motorcycle lift, air hose, 110-piece Craftsman Pro tool kit, and a lighted and clean shop with not one but two retired mechanics roaming around for kicks. They also carry for quite a reasonable fee all manner of fluids and solvents, rags and cloths, and best of all, specialized tools. Needless to say, I was there when they opened at 9am this morning having taken quite a nice ride over.
I got the bike up on a lift with a 3' length of 2x10 lying flat under the center stand to give a bit more rear clearance and the adjustable clamp firmly holding the front wheel, pulled on my nitrile gloves and went to work. Off came the rear wheel, out came the adjustable straps and off came the bottom bolt for the rear shock. I used strap #1 around the hole in the frame support by the top shock bolt to loop around and hold up the drive shaft and strap #2 to tie the shock up and out of the way. For $1 each I then rented a hammer and set of drifts to drive out the pins holding the rear pads in the rear caliper. Out with the old pads, in with the new, with proper tools it was indeed a 10-minute job (luckily the rear caliper was well within spec and in nice shape and no brake fluid removal was needed though I am flirting with the MAX line in the reservoir...)
I returned the hammer and drifts and checked out another $1 tool, a big set of channel lock pliers and was comped a rag. I removed the caliper, inserted the new brake pad paper backing folded tipple over between the new pads and used #3 strap to tie it up and out of the way. Here is where I should have removed the right bag rail but didn't -- next time I will, it makes things much easier.
Off with the final drive bolts, out came the speedo sensor, and soon I had the final drive in my lap cleaning the splines which looked great by the way but had a mysterious absence of any grease whatsoever. I used the channel lock pliers and the rag to pull the drive shaft, the retaining ring gave easily once I straightened out the swing arm. There was a little wear on the final drive end of the driveshaft but it was hardly noticeable so I cleaned it up and went for the front of the drive shaft which looked about as perfect as the day BMW first put it in there. Again, there was very little grease on either end of the shaft and it cleaned up quickly.
I broke out the Guard Dog GD-525 Moly grease and grease up both ends of the drive shaft, reinserted it to where I felt it pop past the retaining ring (again, straightening out the drive shaft makes this a breeze) and cleaned up the mating surfaces of the swingarm and final drive making a mental note to bring a synthetic brillo pad next time to really remove all the residue of sealant some well-intentioned wrench put on in some time passed . I added some GD-525 to the final drive spline for good measure, rubbing it in thoroughly as I had been advised and had done with the driveshaft, and bolted it back onto the bike.
From there I just reassembled in reverse order of dissembly making sure to put the brake line and speedo sensor cable holders in the right places. Just shy of two hours and I was replacing the right-side battery cover and starting to notice my back was complaining a bit about not picking things up from the knees
I rolled it off the ramp and went over to the big desk after a stop at the GoJo sink, checked in the channel pliers and got my bill. $24 for the two hours, $3 for the tools I had borrowed, and with tax it came out to just under $28. Not bad if you ask me!
Riding home I gave some time for the new pads to bed and though I am sure it is my imagination, the bike just seemed happier.
I had set about to change the engine oil and filter, final drive oil and put in new EBC FA18 rear brake pads last weekend at my garage of choice, namely the driveway, and got as far as the fluids. Though many profess great ease in changing brake pads on a plank in a driving rain storm, one handed, I could plainly see I needed more than the tool roll and a better set up. I also felt just a twinge of unease about the complete spline lube a dealer had done just 10k ago, when I called they mentioned they used nickel-based anti-sieze which from what I understand is fine for the clutch (which operates smoothly with ease) but not such a great choice for the splines in the rear on either side of the drive shaft. I decided to buck up, blow the $300 or more and have a pro do it.
So I was flipping through the TV two nights ago and came across that Steven King movie Christine, specifically the part where he is at a "rent a bay" repair shop.
Eureka!
Convinced there must be one of these in the DC area I started googling and quickly found "Do It Yourself Mechanic" in Sterling, VA. For the princely sum of $12 an hour I got a professional motorcycle lift, air hose, 110-piece Craftsman Pro tool kit, and a lighted and clean shop with not one but two retired mechanics roaming around for kicks. They also carry for quite a reasonable fee all manner of fluids and solvents, rags and cloths, and best of all, specialized tools. Needless to say, I was there when they opened at 9am this morning having taken quite a nice ride over.
I got the bike up on a lift with a 3' length of 2x10 lying flat under the center stand to give a bit more rear clearance and the adjustable clamp firmly holding the front wheel, pulled on my nitrile gloves and went to work. Off came the rear wheel, out came the adjustable straps and off came the bottom bolt for the rear shock. I used strap #1 around the hole in the frame support by the top shock bolt to loop around and hold up the drive shaft and strap #2 to tie the shock up and out of the way. For $1 each I then rented a hammer and set of drifts to drive out the pins holding the rear pads in the rear caliper. Out with the old pads, in with the new, with proper tools it was indeed a 10-minute job (luckily the rear caliper was well within spec and in nice shape and no brake fluid removal was needed though I am flirting with the MAX line in the reservoir...)
I returned the hammer and drifts and checked out another $1 tool, a big set of channel lock pliers and was comped a rag. I removed the caliper, inserted the new brake pad paper backing folded tipple over between the new pads and used #3 strap to tie it up and out of the way. Here is where I should have removed the right bag rail but didn't -- next time I will, it makes things much easier.
Off with the final drive bolts, out came the speedo sensor, and soon I had the final drive in my lap cleaning the splines which looked great by the way but had a mysterious absence of any grease whatsoever. I used the channel lock pliers and the rag to pull the drive shaft, the retaining ring gave easily once I straightened out the swing arm. There was a little wear on the final drive end of the driveshaft but it was hardly noticeable so I cleaned it up and went for the front of the drive shaft which looked about as perfect as the day BMW first put it in there. Again, there was very little grease on either end of the shaft and it cleaned up quickly.
I broke out the Guard Dog GD-525 Moly grease and grease up both ends of the drive shaft, reinserted it to where I felt it pop past the retaining ring (again, straightening out the drive shaft makes this a breeze) and cleaned up the mating surfaces of the swingarm and final drive making a mental note to bring a synthetic brillo pad next time to really remove all the residue of sealant some well-intentioned wrench put on in some time passed . I added some GD-525 to the final drive spline for good measure, rubbing it in thoroughly as I had been advised and had done with the driveshaft, and bolted it back onto the bike.
From there I just reassembled in reverse order of dissembly making sure to put the brake line and speedo sensor cable holders in the right places. Just shy of two hours and I was replacing the right-side battery cover and starting to notice my back was complaining a bit about not picking things up from the knees
I rolled it off the ramp and went over to the big desk after a stop at the GoJo sink, checked in the channel pliers and got my bill. $24 for the two hours, $3 for the tools I had borrowed, and with tax it came out to just under $28. Not bad if you ask me!
Riding home I gave some time for the new pads to bed and though I am sure it is my imagination, the bike just seemed happier.
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I can read the personal satisfaction in your voice.
