High-Mileage Question

[tohau]

I own a 2014 BMW R1200RT with 116,000 miles. The bike is just getting a new alternator. Are there other owners that have the same model with similar or higher mileage?

I just trying to find out how far I can push the life of RT. The bike got regularly maintained by BMW dealers.

Thanks,
Tobias

 

[Visian]

I own a 2014 BMW R1200RT with 116,000 miles. The bike is just getting a new alternator. Are there other owners that have the same model with similar or higher mileage?

I just trying to find out how far I can push the life of RT. The bike got regularly maintained by BMW dealers.

Thanks,
Tobias

Not the same model, but my 1150GS was sold recently to a younger, budget-conscious rider… with 135k miles.

I am a preventative maintenance kind of person, and probably spend too much being so, but there is nothing I hate worse than sitting on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere with a worn-out part that could have been replaced before it failed.

So, at 75k miles, with early indications that the rear main seal of the crank was failing, I made the investment to go through and replace things known to fail on a high-mile bike so that I didn’t have to worry about it for another 75k miles.

With the bike split in half, I chose to:

- replace the clutch friction plate (it was in near-new condition, interestingly)
- replace the Hall-effect sensor
- replace the clutch slave and master cylinders
- rebuild the front brake master cylinder
- rebuild brake calipers
- flush the ABS pump and entire braking system
- clean and rebuild the starter
- replace valve train chain tensioner
- replace front wheel bearings
- replace swingarm bearings
- rebuild rear drive
- rebuild Ohlins shocks
- a ton of maintenance items like fluids, grease,

Items like the drive shaft, the telever pivot, rebuild the cylinder heads, etc., were all in fine condition. My tech said that the drive shaft exhibited only the tiniest fraction of play and would be good for a long time. I chose to buy a NOS drive shaft for $300 (they now cost nearly $1000) … which I ultimately sold to the bike’s new owner.

Total investment was about $3500 (this was 10 years ago, it’s probably $7000 now!)… which represented a $15k savings compared to buying a new R12GS.

Your bike will easily go well over 200k miles and some members have far more.

It all depends on how much you love your old bike vs. the peace of mind (sort of) that comes when riding a new one.

Ian

In Mexico, 20 years ago…

 

[20317]

I have a 2016 R1200 RT with 163,477 miles on it. Dealer serviced. I have replaced 2 driveshafts. Other than that, just regular maintenance.

 

[tohau]

Not the same model, but my 1150GS was sold recently to a younger, budget-conscious rider… with 135k miles.

I am a preventative maintenance kind of person, and probably spend too much being so, but there is nothing I hate worse than sitting on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere with a worn-out part that could have been replaced before it failed.

So, at 75k miles, with early indications that the rear main seal of the crank was failing, I made the investment to go through and replace things known to fail on a high-mile bike so that I didn’t have to worry about it for another 75k miles.

With the bike split in half, I chose to:

- replace the clutch friction plate (it was in near-new condition, interestingly)
- replace the Hall-effect sensor
- replace the clutch slave and master cylinders
- rebuild the front brake master cylinder
- rebuild brake calipers
- flush the ABS pump and entire braking system
- clean and rebuild the starter
- replace valve train chain tensioner
- replace front wheel bearings
- replace swingarm bearings
- rebuild rear drive
- rebuild Ohlins shocks
- a ton of maintenance items like fluids, grease,

Items like the drive shaft, the telever pivot, rebuild the cylinder heads, etc., were all in fine condition. My tech said that the drive shaft exhibited only the tiniest fraction of play and would be good for a long time. I chose to buy a NOS drive shaft for $300 (they now cost nearly $1000) … which I ultimately sold to the bike’s new owner.

Total investment was about $3500 (this was 10 years ago, it’s probably $7000 now!)… which represented a $15k savings compared to buying a new R12GS.

Your bike will easily go well over 200k miles and some members have far more.

It all depends on how much you love your old bike vs. the peace of mind (sort of) that comes when riding a new one.

Ian

In Mexico, 20 years ago…

Thanks for the reply. Since I saw your picture, I had to add mine to my original post.

 

[tohau]

I have a 2016 R1200 RT with 163,477 miles on it. Dealer serviced. I have replaced 2 driveshafts. Other than that, just regular maintenance.

Let's hope that the shaft drive still has some life left. 163,477 miles are very impressive.

 

[brorke]

I have a 2016 R1200 RT with 163,477 miles on it. Dealer serviced. I have replaced 2 driveshafts. Other than that, just regular maintenance.

And original final drive??? VERY impressive!

 

[pglaves]

And original final drive??? VERY impressive!

Voni's '93 R1100RS is parked out front, ready to ride, with over 400,000 miles on the original unmolested final drive. When I sold my '03 R1150R at 189,000 miles it still had the original final drive too with no need for repair.

 

[easy]

Voni's '93 R1100RS is parked out front, ready to ride, with over 400,000 miles on the original unmolested final drive. When I sold my '03 R1150R at 189,000 miles it still had the original final drive too with no need for repair.

Paul, you have probably said this before, but I would like everyone to know exactly what maintenance you perform on your final drives to make sure it last so long. I think it's very important for everyone to know.


Thanks, E.

 

[lee]

Paul, you have probably said this before, but I would like everyone to know exactly what maintenance you perform on your final drives to make sure it last so long. I think it's very important for everyone to know.


Thanks, E.

I thought the only maintenance for the final drive was changing the oil.
Are you asking about driveshaft maintenance?

 

[pglaves]

Paul, you have probably said this before, but I would like everyone to know exactly what maintenance you perform on your final drives to make sure it last so long. I think it's very important for everyone to know.


Thanks, E.

The only "maintenance" I do for final drives is to use a moly additive to the gear oil. I began doing so in the mid-1980s at the advice of Oak Okleshen. I originally used Dow Corning "Gear Guard" and have since been using a moly additive from Guarddog Moly Lubricants which is now out of business but I still have a gallon of the stuff. I use the same additive in transmissions if the transmission is separate from the engine, not lubricated with the engine oil.

On our classic K bikes I also clean and lubricate the sliding splines at the rear of the driveshaft to preserve the splines on the pinion shaft. I do this every rear tire change. On the later paralever equipped bikes the sliding motion is the middle of the driveshaft so a good coating of the pinion shaft splines is all that is needed for cushioning and to prevent corrosion.

 

[SteveAikens]

Thanks for the tip on the additives Paul.

As to the original question, I've had some incredible miles on some of my BMW's over the years with only a couple, what I would consider lemons.

My '73 R75/5 had 383K miles on it when I sold it.



My 07 is one I'd call a lemon. Fuel pump and fuel lever sensor issue are/were unreal. BMW was hardly good at taking care of the problems.

I lost a rear universal joint on the 07 at 102K. I decided to just make the repair [not cheap] because I really loved riding the 07. The last fuel level sensor failure, I took the bike to the dealer to get it replaced and was told they WOULD take care of it but they had no idea when they could do it because the replacement sensors were not available and they had no information from BMW when they would be.

At that point, I was offered a deal on a 15 they had just taken in trade, and because I was such a long time car/motorcycle client, they'd show me the trade paperwork on the bike, and I could have it for exactly what they gave the previous owner - which they included any tax. The deal was just too good to say no.

So now the 07 is still happy with 160+K miles and the 15 is only at 46023 miles. Health has been a problem so I couldn't ride for a couple years. Getting to the point I can get some mile in now but it's a little slow to get 100%.

 

[brorke]

Voni's '93 R1100RS is parked out front, ready to ride, with over 400,000 miles on the original unmolested final drive. When I sold my '03 R1150R at 189,000 miles it still had the original final drive too with no need for repair.

That's amazing Paul! Im going to do some research on moly additives. I've used LiquiMoly in my 3 BMW's and never an issue. Change every 9-10k and lube splines at that time as well. But highest mileage bike was my 95 R1100 RSL at 90k.

 

[24755]

Alternator and Check Engine Icon problems

The alternator went out at 148,000 on my 2014. Now have 188,000 and have the check engine light and goes into limp mode. Any remedy for this problem?
Ron

I own a 2014 BMW R1200RT with 116,000 miles. The bike is just getting a new alternator. Are there other owners that have the same model with similar or higher mileage?

I just trying to find out how far I can push the life of RT. The bike got regularly maintained by BMW dealers.

Thanks,
Tobias

View attachment 90866

 

[LFarling]

The only "maintenance" I do for final drives is to use a moly additive to the gear oil. I began doing so in the mid-1980s at the advice of Oak Okleshen. I originally used Dow Corning "Gear Guard" and have since been using a moly additive from Guarddog Moly Lubricants which is now out of business but I still have a gallon of the stuff. I use the same additive in transmissions if the transmission is separate from the engine, not lubricated with the engine oil.

On our classic K bikes I also clean and lubricate the sliding splines at the rear of the driveshaft to preserve the splines on the pinion shaft. I do this every rear tire change. On the later paralever equipped bikes the sliding motion is the middle of the driveshaft so a good coating of the pinion shaft splines is all that is needed for cushioning and to prevent corrosion.

I have been using MOLYKOTE M Gear Additive since my 07 LT in all my FD's.

https://www.lubricantspecialty.com/products/molykote-oils/molykote-m-gear-oil-additive

It does not take much in 6oz of gear oil. I have had a quart since 07 and still have plenty.

 

[alegerlotz]

The alternator went out at 148,000 on my 2014. Now have 188,000 and have the check engine light and goes into limp mode. Any remedy for this problem?
Ron

The most likely cause is that the connector that plugs into the throttle assembly is not seated properly/fully. Check that first as its free to do. If you have "bar backs" or some sort of handle bar extention, it becomes even more likely that this is the issue. If so, it could be a coincidence that it occurred after your stator replacement.