Hall sensor replacement, do I need the engine lock pin?

[gsaddict]

I prefer to time the following way. (1150's only)
When the sensor plate is in the approximate position....
Turn on the ignition.
Turn the crank CW (via the pulley nut) until the OT mark passes the center of the window
The fuel pump should activate (for 1 sec) right at that point.
Adjust the plate accordingly.

No adapter lead required

 

[happy wanderer]

I prefer to time the following way. (1150's only)
When the sensor plate is in the approximate position....
Turn on the ignition.
Turn the crank CW (via the pulley nut) until the OT mark passes the center of the window
The fuel pump should activate (for 1 sec) right at that point.
Adjust the plate accordingly.

No adapter lead required

And I wish I knew why that simple (can be done on the side of a highway) procedure works on an 1150 but not on the 1100! Something in the ECU firmware is different but since BMW provides zero info on the inner workings of the ECU... it's a mystery!

On the 1100 I make scratch marks to get the replacement HES plate close enough to start the engine and then I use a timing light to get it bang on. Too lazy to make a Dana Hager timing box I would use so rarely.

 

[robsryder]

Since it appears that this thread will be marked for future reference by oilhead owners, I am including some other reference links for completeness.

If the links get broken, one can search again... I used the google search engine with the terms "bmw r1100rs service manual". And a pdf of said manual can be downloaded from the following link(s) -
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/downloads/BMW_R1100(RT-RS-GS-R)_Repair_Manual.pdf
http://motodataproject.com/product_info.php?products_id=170

The IBMWR website has a goodly number of tech articles, link below -
http://ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/index.shtml

There is a supplemental oilhead service manual, generated by oilhead owners before the genuine article was available - I find it useful -
http://ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/R11Manual/Oilhead_Maintenance_2-25-02.pdf

The link below appears similar to the IBMWR manual above, perhaps an earlier version? -
http://www.ketchum.org/BMWmc/R1100.pdf

 

[oldcarman]

1996 R1100RT TDC and Flywheel Lock Pin for HES repair

After washing my bike, only has 17,000 miles, I took it out for a ride. A couple minutes into the ride it began to run really rough and wanted to die every time I slowed down. Luckily I limed home. Based on previous reading on HES problems, I decided it was time to remove and repair the HES cable. I had saved many of the links found on the forum so I got into it. After removing the tank and alternator cover I rotated the crank to find TDC, looking through the timing window. I found what I believe is the TDC mark, see pic, and completed the cable removal and repaired the HES cable harness with new wires. When I removed the covering from the cable I was disappointed to see my wires looked really good. I could only find a couple wires that had cracked, but I replaced them with the high temp wire per the recommendations in the various writeups. I reinstalled the HES cable and alternator belt and made myself a locking pin, 8 mm / 5/16", and tried to insert it in the flywheel, through the access hole on the left side by the started. I kept searching for the flywheel hole but could never get the pin inserted. I decided to use a smaller locking pin, about 1/8 in diameter, in hopes of finding the hole. No luck. I did have a Endoscope that I could hook up to my smart phone so I hooked it up and put the scope probe into the access hole to see if I could see the lock hole in the flywheel. See pic. First I found I was just a tiny amount off TDC. I could see the hole for the locating pin, in the flywheel, but it was slightly off center of the access hole. I readjusted TDC so I could see the hole in the flywheel was centered in the access hole. I still could not get the 8mm / 5/16" pin in the hole. I could get a smaller pin in the hole so I did this, and torqued the crankshaft pulley bolt. I suspect others may of experienced the same difficulties I had using a 8mm pin but maybe I missed something. Is it possible the R1100 and R1150 have a different size flywheel lock pin hole. The write ups I was using seem to reference the R1150. Any thoughts? Thanks, oldcarman Jim

 

[gsaddict]

Did you put the pin in here? with the flywheel at OT?
There is a lower hole that won't work.
You need to move slightly back and forth with the flywheel.

 

[m_stock10506]

............ After removing the tank and alternator cover I rotated the crank to find TDC, looking through the timing window. I found what I believe is the TDC mark, see pic, and completed the cable removal and repaired the HES cable harness with new wires. When I removed the covering from the cable I was disappointed to see my wires looked really good. I could only find a couple wires that had cracked, but I replaced them with the high temp wire per the recommendations in the various writeups. I reinstalled the HES cable and alternator belt and made myself a locking pin, 8 mm / 5/16", and tried to insert it in the flywheel, through the access hole on the left side by the started. I kept searching for the flywheel hole but could never get the pin inserted. I decided to use a smaller locking pin, about 1/8 in diameter, in hopes of finding the hole. .................. Any thoughts? Thanks, oldcarman Jim

No wonder! Your photo of the timing hole shows you are NOT at TDC. The mark in your photo window is the Z mark. TDC is when the OT mark is in the window. The 8 mm locking pin should fit.

 

[oldcarman]

1996 R1100RT TDC and Flywheel Lock Pin for HES repair

Wow, you hit the home run. I had no idea there was a "Z" mark and an "OT" TDC mark, see pic. None of the write ups I read mentioned the "Z" mark, so when I rotated the crank and saw the "Z" mark, I stopped. With the "OT" mark in the timing window, I looked in the access hole for the locking pin, left side, with the Endoscope and the locking pin hole was there. I inserted the 8mm / 5/16 pin and rotated the crank just slightly and it dropped right in. So, beware of the "Z" mark, it is not the OT (TDC ) mark. Thanks for the great info. oldcarman jim

 

[AntonLargiader]

FWIW I determine TDC using a dial indicator on the piston. That is the real TDC; everything else is just something that's supposed to be the same as TDC.