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FYKRT fuel connector pics and Qs

mneblett

#32806
Finally had my first chance to dig into my new-to-me Finest Year K-RT, pulling the tank to look into an issue with gas fumes when running, and an issue with the fuel low level sender.

Easy item first: It appears the fuel smell from under the right rear of the tank was due to the hose not being connected to the funnel under the tank -- not that having the hose connected would have changed that, as the hose itself was plugged! The hose has been replaced and connected to the funnel.

Harder one next: An interesting find when I got to the fuel hoses and electrical connector - the electrical plug was *duct-taped*(!) to the tank connector. Yes, the handyman's secret weapon.

Here are pics, after removal of the space-age retention system -- Qs to follow:

Fuelpumpwiringplug1-1.jpg
Fuelpumpwiringplug2-1.jpg

Fuelpumptankconnector1.jpg

Fuelpumptankconnector2-1.jpg

So:

What retaining bit(s) are missing? On the plug? On the tank connector?

Options to fix? Replace parts? New? Used? Fresh duct tape? :)

Thanks for ideas!
 
Known problem....

The 85 K bikes had this white connector which provides power to both the fuel pump and the fuel level sensor located at the upper left side.

The male connector has the 4 female tubes that are designed to grip the 4 pins on the tank side connector, thus magically holding the connector in place.

This actually worked well for the first couple of decades of the bikes' life, alas old age eventually catches up with the design, hence the common duct tape interim solution.

Duct tape will solve the problem for a while, but the crux of the problem is that the female 'tubes' in the connector have loosened up and no longer grip the pins on the tank side (following this?). This easing grip will eventually cause abrupt cessation of the current flow to the fuel pump and resulting cut off of fuel and the bike coasting to a stop w a dead engine. If you look carefully you can sometimes see evidence of arcing between these (former) connections. If you look at your pictures, you can see that the female tubes have opened up - in your case probably the ones powering the fuel sensor.:sick

The correct solution is to replace this male connector, but darned if I could find one. Others have bypassed the entire problem and built a new system using NAPA auto parts standard connectors.

I, on the other hand, worked a perfectly elegant solution by creating more grip on the female tubes. I used some fine gage copper wire and inserted these wires on the outside of the tube cavity and snipping them off flush w the surface. When reassembled the tubes' expansion around the tank pins is greatly reduced by the wire pieces and both the connection(s) and the tendancy of this plug to fall out (which will also result in the engine stopping abruptly) to be solved.

This interim solution has worked for quite awhile for me.

So I then sold the bike, and tried to inform the new owner of said problem.
 
The female tubes are split. While the metal may have fatigued some over time, I think the connections can be improved by squeezing the tubes with needlenose pliers, so that their diameter is reduced. If you go this route, aim at reducing the diameter of the tubes throughout their entire length, not just at the most visible (top) ends. I'd clean things too with a good contact cleaner like DeOxit.
 
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The female tubes are split. While the metal may have fatigued some over time, I think the connections can be improved by squeezing the tubes with needlenose pliers, so that their diameter is reduced. If you go this route, aim at reducing the diameter of the tub throughout its entire length, not just at the most visible (top) end. I'd clean things too with a good contact cleaner like DeOxit.
Thanks, guys -- it makes sense now. I've squeezed down the female tubes, de-ox'd the connectors and reassembled. I've also done a bit of study, and concluded that I can cross-drill a hole in both the white connector and the black tank connection without hitting the pins/tubes. If I have any problem with the connection, I'll use this approach to create a positive connection.
 
Mark -

Like the duct tape solution (ugly and inelegant) pinning the connectors together will not guarantee a good connection. I tried to squeeze the female tubes back together, but I may have had the wrong needle nosed pliers, I was never able to do it.

Safe riding and good luck!
 
Thanks for the heads-up. I'm waiting on a couple instrument cluster illumination bulbs from my dealer to finish putting the bike back together, so I can see whether I've had success with the pin-squeezing. If not, I'll be revisiting the options.
 
Like the duct tape solution (ugly and inelegant) pinning the connectors together will not guarantee a good connection. I tried to squeeze the female tubes back together, but I may have had the wrong needle nosed pliers, I was never able to do it. Safe riding and good luck!

When mine began to go bad, reshaping the female connectors worked for awhile but eventually, the plug had to be replaced.
 
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