Figured out why having shifting issue, now need to figure out how to fix

[bicyclenut]

Was having problems shifting at end of trip back from Denver to Chicago, was acting like linkage was stiff or needed lubricated and had to move lever back into middle "neutral" position to get to downshift 3-2, 2-1 and pedal was staying higher up in gear above 3. After trip sprayed some lube and seemed better but after sitting a week stated acting up again and when I went to look, I found the mount for linkage to frame was cracked and loose.

It's hard to tell but from parts fiche and looking at area, this seems to be part of main rear frame so only option may be to weld this mount back, hopefully can be done without major disassembly. Anyone seen this of had to fix this?

 

[lkraus]

I'd think that could be welded without too much disassembly.

Were there previous repairs in that area? The paint on the frame looks like it has brush marks and the break looks like it has some corrosion, as if it had been cracked for some time.

 

[bicyclenut]

I'd think that could be welded without too much disassembly.

Were there previous repairs in that area? The paint on the frame looks like it has brush marks and the break looks like it has some corrosion, as if it had been cracked for some time.

Not that I am aware of. I purchased bike used with 53K on it. Seemed to be well taken care of.


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[voisinen]

Shifter mount broken weld

I had the same issue on my 2005 rt. The shifter felt mushy until it broke off completely. The weld showed corrosion, so it had been damaged by previously owner. Local weld / fab shop welded it for 25 bucks. Shifts great now.

Before and after photos.

 

[bicyclenut]

I had the same issue on my 2005 rt. The shifter felt mushy until it broke off completely. The weld showed corrosion, so it had been damaged by previously owner. Local weld / fab shop welded it for 25 bucks. Shifts great now.

Before and after photos.

Voisinen,

Good to know I’m not the only one, great to hear you were able to fix it. How much disassembly did you have to do to get it welded? Taking it to a local guy this weekend to have him take a look. One guy said could only do if part was off bike, no way I’m stripping down frame to fix, figured must be some other way. Thanks for the reply.


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[52184]

Once you’ve disassembled to the point where you have removed the fuel tank and can disconnect the battery and the ECU, further disassembly is just about getting adequate access to prep the weld area (v-grooving and such) and getting a MIG nose cone in there to do the weld.

Best,
DeVern

 

[voisinen]

First:
I removed the shifter and linkage, cleaned up the rust from the frame and bracket with a wire wheel.
Purchased some thin metal flashing at Lowe’s and cut it into shapes that would and positioned it to temporarily shield the underside portions of the frame, tire and other bike components.
Using the shaft and original nylon bushings as an alignment jig, I positioned the bracket in its original position and wired it in place with thin gage steel wire to hold it in place.
Covered the exposed sections of the shaft with duct tape to prevent weld splatter from sticking to it.
Experienced technician welded it to the frame while lying on his back from under the bike using MIG wire feed to minimize heat, splatter and slag buildup.
Removed positioning wire, shaft and nylon bushings from bike, clean any splatter, use spray primer and then final paint coat.
Removed the protective flashing from bike.
Purchased new bushings from Max BMW as the original ones were worn and could be damaged by the welding process.
Reassembled and good to go.
Good luck!

 

[bicyclenut]

First:
I removed the shifter and linkage, cleaned up the rust from the frame and bracket with a wire wheel.
Purchased some thin metal flashing at Lowe’s and cut it into shapes that would and positioned it to temporarily shield the underside portions of the frame, tire and other bike components.
Using the shaft and original nylon bushings as an alignment jig, I positioned the bracket in its original position and wired it in place with thin gage steel wire to hold it in place.
Covered the exposed sections of the shaft with duct tape to prevent weld splatter from sticking to it.
Experienced technician welded it to the frame while lying on his back from under the bike using MIG wire feed to minimize heat, splatter and slag buildup.
Removed positioning wire, shaft and nylon bushings from bike, clean any splatter, use spray primer and then final paint coat.
Removed the protective flashing from bike.
Purchased new bushings from Max BMW as the original ones were worn and could be damaged by the welding process.
Reassembled and good to go.
Good luck!

So did you just remove the left kick plate, footpeg panel and the Tupperware from left side of bike? I saw other response said remove fuel tank and other parts. I forget what is accessible with side panels off, it’s been a while. Thanks


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[voisinen]

Yes, remove left kick plate but didn’t have to remove all Tupperware.
Note, locate and plug the fuel line vent hose from gas tank to prevent from sparks. Also might want to disconnect battery to prevent possible damage to Can-Bus controller, although I forgot to.

I spent several hours prepping the bike prior to the 5 minutes it took to do the actual welding. Thanks

 

[Omega Man]

70% of welding is preparing and positioning the work.
OM

 

[bicyclenut]

Local guy less than a 1/2 mile from house was able to weld it and it shifts better than I can ever remember since I’ve owned it. Reinforced the tab as well. Just need to paint it and have some new bushings on way to service r the linkage.

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[Omega Man]

Nice
OM

 

[voisinen]

Local guy less than a 1/2 mile from house was able to weld it and it shifts better than I can ever remember since I’ve owned it. Reinforced the tab as well. Just need to paint it and have some new bushings on way to service r the linkage.

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Did you remove the gas tank?