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F-Twins Tech - F800GS Front Wheel Removal

drneo66

Well-known member
The articles, posts and comments in this tech section are posted by individual members and reflect their personal thoughts and experiences with repairing, maintaining, and generally working on motorcycles. This information may require specific knowledge and skills, may or may not be correct or current to model.

The authors of information found here and the BMW MOA take no responsibility for ensuring the accuracy of any information (including procedures, techniques, parts numbers, torque values, tool usage, etc.), or further for any damage of any kind or injuries incurred or caused by anyone following the instructions or information found here.

It is the duty of the individual to either assume the liability himself for responsibly using the information found here, or to take the bike or accessory to a Dealer or other qualified professional service.


Please ensure you dispose of your used chemicals, oils and fuels in an environmentally responsible manner. Most Auto Parts stores and service stations will accept used oil and lubricants, tires and batteries, please check for your local availability. Here's a link where you can look up a place to dispose of your used fluids (oil, coolant, brake fluid, etc.) - http://earth911.com/

This article, text and photos are Copyright of the individual authors and the BMW MOA, any copying or redistributing is permitted only by prior written authorization.

PLEASE PRINT AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING!

Final note: The motorcycle's two wheels are the only thing keeping you upright. When in doubt, take your motorcycle to a reputable dealer.

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Removing and reinstalling the front wheel on your BMW F800GS



Note 1: The specific bike shown is a 2013 F800GS
Note 2: The tools and materials used are by personal choice and are not due to any affiliation with any brand


Tools Required:
- T30 star (Torx) bit
- T45 star (Torx) bit
- E12 external star (External Torx) socket
- 17mm socket
- Ratchet(s) that fit the above
- Torque wrench
- Suitable way to raise the front wheel and keep the bike steady.
 
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If your bike is equipped with an Anti-lock Braking System (ABS), begin by using your T30 to remove the bolt that holds on the ABS sensor to the fork (noted by the red arrow). This is a sensitive electronic part, so care should be taken. The sensor does not have to be completely removed from the housing, it sensor just needs to be pushed back far enough so that the wheel/rim does not damage it as we remove the wheel.

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Using your 17mm socket, loosen (but do not remove) the axe bolt on the clutch side of the motorcycle (indicated by the red arrow). Then using the T45 star bit, loosen the four axle pinch bolts (two on the clutch side and two on the throttle side) as indicated by the green arrows.

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Using a suitable way to raise the front wheel of the bike, lift the front wheel. In this case, we are using a motorcycle lift underneath the bike's bash plate, with the rear of the bike secured. A car jack or bottle jack may work for you. Please make sure that however you lift the bike up, it's done safely!

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I find that it's easiest to use the nearly-unscrewed 17mm bolt on the clutch side of the bike to push the axle out towards the throttle side of the bike. This exposes enough of the axle to remove it all the way by hand. Be careful to support the front tire as you gently remove the front axle as not to damage the bearing seals.

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Note that the clutch side of the bike contains a spacer that may stay in place as you remove the wheel. Most of the time, in my experience, it falls out and tends to roll under the farthest depths of your workspace. This spacer should be inspected, making sure there isn't any pitting on the metal surface. New spacers should be purchased if there is deep pitting.


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You now should be able to remove the front wheel by gently rolling the wheel forward.


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Reinstalling the front wheel is the basically the opposite of removal.

- Clean and lubricate the axle, metal spacer, and faces of the rubber bearing seals with a good waterproof, rubber-friendly grease
- Make sure that the ABS sensor (if equipped) is still out of the way
- Roll the tire back into place and gently insert the axle, making sure that the spacer is in the correct position.
- Using your 17 mm socket, torque the axle screw to 30 Newton Meters (22 Foot-Pounds, 265.5 Inch-Pounds)
- Using your T45, starting on the clutch side, torque this pair of quick-release axle pinch bolts three times each - going back and forth between the right and left bolt each time you torque (total of six times for this side). Torque is 19 Newton meters (14 Foot-Pounds, 168 Inch-Pounds).
(In the picture below, you torque bolt A, then bolt B, then bolt A, then bolt B, then bolt A, and finally bolt B)


IMG_9051.png
 
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- Gently squeeze the front brake several times to build up pressure against the front disc
- Remove the support under the bike
- Take the bike off the lift or jack and gently roll the bike forward. Then, using the front brake, gently compress and release the front forks a couple times to properly line up the forks and axle
 
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- Repeat the torquing of the throttle side axle pinch bolts (again, a total of six times - alternating between each bolt)
- Install the ABS screw using you T27. Torque is 8 Newton Meters (5.9 Foot-Pounds, 71 Inch-Pounds)
- Congrats, you're done!
 
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