Drive shaft bolt removal?

[agent9]

I ordered a bunch of tools to replace the clutch on my 72 r60/5, but of corse I forgot one essential one (the drive shaft bolt tool). Does anyone happen to have a good technique for removing and reattaching these? Or does anyone in San Francisco happen to have the tool that I could borrow?

Thanks in advance.

 

[20774]

I didn't use a special tool for these bolts on my clutch last year. I just used the box-end wrench (12-point) that was in my tool kit. To break them loose, I put my foot on the rear brake lever. Same when I put them on. Clean, dry threads, with some blue loctite, used a rag in my hand and gave them the best grunt I could.

 

[30064]

agent,

As Kurt mentioned no special tool is needed to remove the flange bolts. I think what you may be referring to is the extension tool needed if you choose to torque the bolts for reassembly. Lots of folks will choose not to use a torque wrench for which you won't need the special extension tool. Here's a picture of the tool ...

 

[20774]

Another view of Mike's tool is mid-way down this page:

http://www.northwoodsairheads.com/Tools.html

Using an extension on a torque wrench can get tricky, depending on the angle between the wrench and the extension. In some cases, the torque applied will be different than what is read on the dial/meter...in some cases it is identical. Mechanics 101, baby!!

 

[agent9]

yeah, that is the tool I was thinking of. I do not seem to have the 12 point tool in my kit, and none of of the crescent wrenches with the 12 point on the back can fit in there (outer diamete is too large on all of them).

I think I am going to try to just grind down one of my wrenches and see if i can get it to work.

here goes nothing.

 

[agent9]

this seems like it is going to work...success

 

[lmo1131]

I'm kind of curious how and open end wrench will work on a 12-point head. 12pt. refers to the number of faces on the bolt head, not the diameter. You need to find a "proper" 12pt. wrench for when you get ready to reassemble everything. It doesn't have to say BMW on it, but is does need to be a 12-point box wrench to get a good grip on the bolt head. Andother aspect of the 12pt. head is that it allow you to rotate the bolt in smaller increments (30?? vs. 60??) handy in tight places where the "swing" of the wrench is limited.

12 pt. (point) bolt

Cresent wrench... there are none in the BMW tool kit.

open-ended, box-end wrench

open-end wrench

 

[ISAMEMON]

a slightly ground down 12 point box end wrench will work, or at least has wtih me

 

[140008]

My 12 pt. box in my Cruz Tool set works perfect w/no grinding.

 

[agent9]

Sorry, I used a box end, thats what I meant. My toolkit is definitely missing a few items, sadly I think I am responsible for a few of them.

I successfully got everything off the bike including the flywheel. I am going to post pictures in my main thread, and will link from here if anyone is interested. I do have a few questions in regards to types of drive shaft bolts, and how gross my dry clutch area was (clearly there was a leak).

 

[20774]

I do have a few questions in regards to types of drive shaft bolts,

What type of bolts were removed? Long with lock washer or short w/o washer...you don't want the former.

 

[agent9]

Short without we're removed. BMW gave me long with washers. Here is the full post with images:

http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?t=61139

 

[lmo1131]

BMW gave me long with washers.

figures. . . . . . .

 

[beemerguru]

Go to Sear..they carry a long handle, thin-walled, 12pt, 10mm open/box wrench that's perfect for those bolts.

Always use the short bolts...most dealers don't even carry the long ones anymore..and some people also use a dab of blue Locktite on the bolts.

Greg

Let me know if you still need help..especially when you get to getting the *^*& boot back on

 

[bikerfish1100]

I'm kind of curious how and open end wrench will work on a 12-point head.

Lew- you're right that an open end will not work well (if at all) in this application.

however, no one said anything about trying to use an open end, a crescent or anything else other than a box end.

Agent9- return those long ones. shorts are only ones called for, and that is an old changeover (at least 10 years or so). the longer ones were found to fail when the lock washer would split and break, leaving a very untorqued bolt trying unsuccessfully to hold things together.

 

[40401]

A 10mm combination wrench (12 point box on one end, open end on the other) worked well as an adapter for my click type torque wrench. I measured from the center of the box to the center of the square drive when it was in the open end of the combination wrench. I used that length in the formula that came with the torque wrench instructions. The 10mm open end was a good fit on the 3/8" square drive (the spring loaded ball kept things snug). I checked my calculations by linking the setup to an old beam type torque wrench I've owned for years and the torque I was expecting was the one I got.