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Cost of Oil and Filters

I used a WIX. Seems OK so far, but after reading all of this about filters, I'll convert to OEM (next oil change)...BTW, when I pulled my PO's BMW filter out, it appeared to be too long for the non-cooled R80RT. Thought it was kind of strange that it was all bent up in there. After reading snowbum's stuff......hmmm....confusing that there is a long and a short one for the R80Rt non-cooled. Maybe the PO used a long one, but what the heck if there are two?
 
confusing that there is a long and a short one for the R80Rt non-cooled.

Huh? I can understand being confused by the 'bum ;) ...but there are two different filters, one for cooler-equipped and one for non-cooler bikes.

- cooler bike -- 11421337575
- non-cooler -- 11421337570
 
what does everyone think of two piece fram filters

I installed on in my R80RT this spring. I bought several from Beemer Boneyard. They looked and felt the same as the OEM to me. There is a lot of Fram bashing going on but I've never experienced any problems with them. However, I didn't start using them 40 or 45 years ago.
 
Amsoil 20W50 synthetic motorcycle oil (because I can get it in my small town and it has lots of ZDDP)

Amsoil 85W90 synthetic gear oil

OEM filters (I often add one to a larger parts order to save on shipping just a filter)

+1, and no, my 75K mile, '93 R100R does not leak.

Tom
 
napa filter and synthetic 20w-50 motorcycle oil

typically i go for what is on sale. no leaks and a happy R 75/5.
 
filters are not just the paper inside the element. the overall construction, materials, design & congruence to specs is what really creates the difference in quality.
 
"IMHO" means "in my humble opinion." That's all it is - my opinion.

I don't use Fram filters, but you should feel free to do so.
 
that would be wikipedia. Any dictionary where the user can make their own additions to a definition or explanation is a bit suspect in my mind. Google just gets you there.

Google gives a lot of other misinformation, contradictions and fabrications than just with wikipedia.
 
Google gives a lot of other misinformation, contradictions and fabrications than just with wikipedia.

oh. those would probably be the sources that i assess, and then promptly ignore. don't you?
ya know, that's sort of like saying an electronics store "sells crap" because they carry some bottom end shelf systems for broke college students, alongside the high end stuff they have for the more discriminating and financially solvent consumer.
 
Saith the 'Bum (but what do he and Oak know?):

Fram: 35 paper pleats. Paper is coarse, lessened void space, not as deep, so square area is less, I.D. is larger that the OK Purolator. ****From end to end on the I.D., the holes in the grating surrounding the center tube go only about 2/3 of the way, and the remaining area is closed off, solidly. This reduces the flow rate. The pleats are spread out more evenly than the Purolator, a minor plus factor. The paper quality is questionable, seems fuzzy, and it MIGHT be decayed by the oil. Flow rate unknown. Oak recommended against this filter.
 
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Does the phrase "penny wise and pound foolish' mean anything to you?

In 1977, the cost of oil filters from BMW was $7.25 each and people complained bitterly about that price too. After all, you could buy a Baldwin P149 diesel fuel filter that fit perfectly for $2.49. Never mind that it had the potential to turn an engine into a lump of aluminum by filling the oil passages with paper ~ the owner could brag about not having to use those expensive BMW filters at obviously un-necessarily short service intervals designed to be nothing more than a cash cow for dealersbla, bla, bla
The MOA Owners News did a survey in the late 70ÔÇÖs on average miles traveled each year by members. The last such survey to include airheads exclusively. The results were that the average member - rider piled up a butt-numbing 5000 miles per year. A 70ÔÇÖs model airhead has a factory specified 5000 mile service interval for oil and filter changes. That means in one year, the average owner needs one filter. My two questions are: why would anyone buy anything but the best filter available to use during that 12 month period and, why would anyone recommend anything but the correct factory filter for another persons engine especially if the only reason is because its cheap?
 
I agree with the above, but I wonder if the idea of changing the stock OEM filter every other oil change might not be sort of OK. Upside, you get the best filter and you can spread the cost out some. It also means less chance to burn yourself, eff-up the $2000 o-ring, etc. The downside is that you don't get the best filtration for the entire period and you miss a chance to inspect the filter pleats for unwanted pieces of debris.

Still, though, it's "penny-wise, pound foolish"...

Just a thought...
 
I agree with your questions s09rwmb. My initial posting intended to ask that very simple first question:does the best filter exist out there at less cost than what I paid? By that, does it meet OEM specs? If it doesn't exist then I stick with what I have and pay the price.
 
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