Changing My Own Tires? - Requesting Sage Advice

[jbtex]

One question for the group here? Where can I get the adapter needed to balance the rear wheel of the GS? I've seen of few videos of a hack made from PVC piping but I'm looking for all alternatives before I consider going that route. Thanks.

Kent

Kent, I am very heavily leaning toward Marc Parnes' tool. http://www.marcparnes.com

As I am needing to balance the RT rear wheel, the Universal tool he has for sale would I believe fit your GS as well. He has a chart showing which cones fit various bikes.

 

[pglaves]

One question for the group here? Where can I get the adapter needed to balance the rear wheel of the GS? I've seen of few videos of a hack made from PVC piping but I'm looking for all alternatives before I consider going that route. Thanks.

Kent

For balancer products go to: http://www.marcparnes.com/

 

[cap]

I bought a used NoMar setup from a small moto shop that was upgrading. Based on advice here, I also got a mojo lever and a yellow thing... and some other stuff.

Starting with zero experience I struggled the first few times mounting and demounting half used tires for my 1200RTW. After practicing with the used tires, I was able to mount a new Dunlop RoadSmart on my rear, and a Bridgestone T31 on the front. It was a chore, but also a satisfying experience. The NoMar website has some helpful videos that show how to use some of their specialty tools to keep the beads in the drop center of the rim. They also show how and where to use lube. I found that I needed to strap the rims to the arm of the changer, because the rims will spin in spite of being clamped hard.

I am using a Marc Parnes balancer, and it works great. I made a rookie mistake and failed to align the dot on the new tire wall with the valve on the rim. Oops. At least I remembered to mount the tire in the correct rotation direction.

The primary benefit for me is that I can get more use out of a tire, while also starting a long trip with new tires. So often, I’ve tossed out half-worn tires because I didn’t want to risk wearing them to the cord on a long trip. Now I can remount half-used tires and get full value from them for local riding.

Cap

 

[akbeemer]

I bought a used NoMar setup from a small moto shop that was upgrading. Based on advice here, I also got a mojo lever and a yellow thing... and some other stuff.

Starting with zero experience I struggled the first few times mounting and demounting half used tires for my 1200RTW. After practicing with the used tires, I was able to mount a new Dunlop RoadSmart on my rear, and a Bridgestone T31 on the front. It was a chore, but also a satisfying experience. The NoMar website has some helpful videos that show how to use some of their specialty tools to keep the beads in the drop center of the rim. They also show how and where to use lube. I found that I needed to strap the rims to the arm of the changer, because the rims will spin in spite of being clamped hard.

I am using a Marc Parnes balancer, and it works great. I made a rookie mistake and failed to align the dot on the new tire wall with the valve on the rim. Oops. At least I remembered to mount the tire in the correct rotation direction.

The primary benefit for me is that I can get more use out of a tire, while also starting a long trip with new tires. So often, I’ve tossed out half-worn tires because I didn’t want to risk wearing them to the cord on a long trip. Now I can remount half-used tires and get full value from them for local riding.

CapView attachment 79861

You are quite the risk taker changing a tire that near a car. ccEvery now and then things go flying.

 

[Rainman48]

One question for the group here? Where can I get the adapter needed to balance the rear wheel of the GS? I've seen of few videos of a hack made from PVC piping but I'm looking for all alternatives before I consider going that route. Thanks.

Kent

Hi Kent.
Other than Marc Parnes you might want to look at wheel balancers for your BMW on the NoMar web site as well. I bought $1,000 worth of NoMar equipment at least 10 years ago and have used it a lot, including his cheapest balancer with a set of standard cones, AND a three size cone set for single-sided swing arm bikes like most BMWs are. Instead of buying a floor mount stand, I bought a hitch mount that my changer is bolted to and I just pop it on and off my small SUV when I need to change tires - either at home, or a friend's house. Saves a lot of floor space in a garage. As others have confessed, as I age (73), I find I'm pooped by the time I finish a job anymore, but I've recouped my investment ten times over.

As others have noted, front tires, new tires, and cold tires are much harder to manually handle, and technique is everything. I have step by step demount & mount instructions written out for every bikes I've owned and almost always watch their relevant videos before doing a job just to make sure I do it as efficiently and right as I can remember.

 

[lee]

. I have been changing my Harley tires for years with no issues, but my R1200RT tires kick my butt!
.

Are your Harley tires radial or bias ply?

 

[robsryder]

I use a modified Harbor Freight motorcycle tire changer (which requires the purchase on their regular tire changer).
https://www.harborfreight.com/manual-tire-changer-69686.html?_br_psugg_q=tire+changer
https://www.harborfreight.com/motorcycle-tire-changer-attachment-60810.html

Modifications to the HF tire changer include having a steel base made that I can quickly install and otherwise is placed against a wall out of the way. I also made some plastic parts that keep from damaging the rim. A similar item to what I made is sold by Northwoods Airheads and is shown below -
http://www.northwoodsairheads.com/tools-and-t-shirts.php


Although the HF tire changer has an attachment said to be used for breaking the bead on a tire, I use a modified version of this device -
https://www.harborfreight.com/bead-breaker-92961.html

My modification to the bead breaker is bolting a couple of inch piece of steel and plastic, wrapped by an old inner tube, to the part designed to catch the rim. I place a few 2x4 pieces of wood on the floor to preclude damage to the rim. I remove brake rotors before demounting or mounting tires.

I use a Marc Parnes wheel balancer; with appropriate attachments to accomodate any tire that I might have.
http://marcparnes.com/

Lead wheel weights are a thing of the past. Zinc is less prone to rusting than steel. I try and clean the old glue/tape off the rim before mounting the new wheel. Once in a while you get lucky and don't need weights. Tire Pressure Monitors can cause one to add a good deal of weight to achieve balance.

I mostly use a NoMar tire lever and some other items (e.g., yellow rim grabber).
https://www.nomartirechanger.com/Mount_Demount_Bar_p/tc-mdbar.htm
https://www.nomartirechanger.com/dealoftheday.asp

I keep a few of these curved, long tire irons on hand just in case I have a stubborn wheel that needs a bit of extra help on or off -
https://www.denniskirk.com/motorspo...-tire-iron-lever-76151.p283962.prd/283962.sku

I use a product called RuGlyde to help the tires on and off, available from NAPA (one gallon lasts a long time!) Putting a new tire out in the sun for a bit prior to changing can greatly help in softening the rubber and make the job easier.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7651338

I have an air compressor with a good size tank that can get to 150 psi. I usually throttle the pressure to about 100 psi.

While the old tire is removed I usually take an electric drill with a wire wheel attachment an clean the old "spooge" from inside the rim. The old rubber and "spooge" can result in a very slow air leak for a tubeless tire. The cleaning of the rim inner surface, warming of the new tire in the sun, and use of the rubber lubricant can help the tire seat more easily. The seating is usually a couple of pretty loud "POPs!". The valve core should be removed from the stem to increase airflow during seating of the tire. Sometimes tires are difficult to get seated. It can help to take a strap about the outer circumference of the tire and squeeze (sort of like a tourniquet) while adding air (I find this to be much easier as a two person job).

 

[craigjv4]

When I was riding my GSXR 750 track only bike, I changed all my tires. Like others wrote, local shops wouldn't mount internet purchased tires.

I only used a home made 2x4 frame, rim protectors and spoons. It was ALOT of work.

I'm not willing to do this for my GS when I only need tires every couple years. I just remove the wheels and bring them to the shop.

I also used a Marc Parnes balancer and it worked very well. I never had a vibration even at 140+ mph.

I forgot about this balancer and will probably sell it.

 

[cap]

I use a product called RuGlyde to help the tires on and off, available from NAPA

Based on a recommendation from this forum, I got a gallon of that. And I discovered that a used Talenti ice cream container fits the NoMar stand perfectly. And if you cut a large hole in the lid, you can use it to hold your lube brush -- as shown in the pic above.

 

[rick601]

Hi Kent.
Other than Marc Parnes you might want to look at wheel balancers for your BMW on the NoMar web site as well. I bought $1,000 worth of NoMar equipment at least 10 years ago and have used it a lot, including his cheapest balancer with a set of standard cones, AND a three size cone set for single-sided swing arm bikes like most BMWs are. Instead of buying a floor mount stand, I bought a hitch mount that my changer is bolted to and I just pop it on and off my small SUV when I need to change tires - either at home, or a friend's house. Saves a lot of floor space in a garage. As others have confessed, as I age (73), I find I'm pooped by the time I finish a job anymore, but I've recouped my investment ten times over.

As others have noted, front tires, new tires, and cold tires are much harder to manually handle, and technique is everything. I have step by step demount & mount instructions written out for every bikes I've owned and almost always watch their relevant videos before doing a job just to make sure I do it as efficiently and right as I can remember.

I DO understand the pleasure of doing ones own work- even if it is occasionally more costly than what a shop might get (tooling costs for me!) So with understanding the joy and with respect, I don't see a "many times over" saving...even if one replaces an entire set of tires every two years, a one bike owner would buy 5 sets in ten years- at $30per (you remove the tire) thats $300 in ten years- not many times a $1000 investment. I have four bikes- so maybe I'd save CLOSE to the $1000 (I couldn't burn four sets every two years so ...the math gets fuzzy) lol I was happy to be able to throw some work to my local motorcycle shop (non BMW). On the other hand...if a friend had a tire machine and balancer...where do you live?

 

[PoorUB]

What is unique to especially the R1200RT I can pick up from here.

Well, I can tell you that a Harley tire change is a breeze in comparison to an RT, so don't put much weight on other people's experiences on other branded motorcycles, except, perhaps Goldwing. They are a b**** too. I never had any issues with tire changes until I tried to do my buddy's K1600. We gave up and took it to a local shop. I stocked up on irons and rim protectors after that and studied a few Youtube vids.

BMW rims do not have much drop center so getting that last few inches of bead to slide over the rim is a pain. That is where the rim protectors and the tire irons come to play. I will run the tire on as far as I can with the Mojolever, then get the last of it the old fashioned way, sweat and irons. To give you an idea, on a Harley rim I can lube up the first bead and slap the tire on without tools. The BMW takes tire irons and a few swear words and the second bead is more fun yet!

 

[jbtex]

When I was riding my GSXR 750 track only bike, I changed all my tires. Like others wrote, local shops wouldn't mount internet purchased tires.

I only used a home made 2x4 frame, rim protectors and spoons. It was ALOT of work.

I'm not willing to do this for my GS when I only need tires every couple years. I just remove the wheels and bring them to the shop.

I also used a Marc Parnes balancer and it worked very well. I never had a vibration even at 140+ mph.

I forgot about this balancer and will probably sell it.

I may be interested in your Marc Parnes balancer. From his lineup on his site, do you remember which model you have? http://www.marcparnes.com

 

[jbtex]

Well, I can tell you that a Harley tire change is a breeze in comparison to an RT, so don't put much weight on other people's experiences on other branded motorcycles, except, perhaps Goldwing. They are a b**** too. I never had any issues with tire changes until I tried to do my buddy's K1600. We gave up and took it to a local shop. I stocked up on irons and rim protectors after that and studied a few Youtube vids.

BMW rims do not have much drop center so getting that last few inches of bead to slide over the rim is a pain. That is where the rim protectors and the tire irons come to play. I will run the tire on as far as I can with the Mojolever, then get the last of it the old fashioned way, sweat and irons. To give you an idea, on a Harley rim I can lube up the first bead and slap the tire on without tools. The BMW takes tire irons and a few swear words and the second bead is more fun yet!

Very valuable input and exactly the kind of heads-up I am looking for. Did you use anything like a No-Mar changer, or all just hand tools like the irons you mentioned?

 

[jbtex]

For those of you who are using the No-Mar, would you consider the Posi-Clamps and the XtraHand Clamps a must, especially for the 1200RT tires?

 

[akbeemer]

The Posi-clamps work very well. Get the longer version for GS/GSA wheels.

 

[bigjohnsd]

I have a HF changer, I've probably changed 100 tires on it, I added the Mojo Blocks https://www.mojotiretools.com/mojoblocks.htm. $30 to grip the wheel properly, threw away the Harbor Freight Bar and purchased a Mojo Lever, then added A " Mod" to the Mojo Lever to keep the tire on the lever correctly. I use a " Yellow Thing" that I think is a Nomar piece to keep the tire from moving on the rim. I have two Harbor Freight "Tar Ahrns" for those stubborn Roadsmart IIIs and T31's.

To go this route you need:

https://www.harborfreight.com/motorcycle-tire-changer-attachment-60810.html. $37.99

https://www.harborfreight.com/manual-tire-changer-69686.html. ( your local welding shop can probably make you a Trailer Hitch Mount that you can easily connect the Motorcycle Attachment to for about the same cost as this $41.99 piece that you don't need unless you plan on doing car tires too.

two each https://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-general-purpose-tire-iron-93230.html $6 each

https://www.mojotiretools.com/mojoweb.htm $144

The George Mod to the Mojo Lever

I use a bungee cord to retract my bead breaker and two pieces of 2x6 on the floor under the tire/wheel when I break the bead.
I have found no need to ever remove a brake disc before breaking a bead or changing a tire.

If you want to balance your tires you will need a tire balancing device. I recommend the Marc Parnes balanced as the guy that made mine is no longer making them. http://www.marcparnes.com $115 - he makes a great adapter for the BMW S/S Swingarm wheels.

This all totals to about $250 plus some freight.

I also have a 3/4" Cold Rolled Steel Rod that is threaded on one end (3/4" x 6 TPI as I recall) to screw into the HF Tire Machine in place of their funky center brace and pivot point tube. This Rod will fit through the Front and Rear of most big bike wheel bearings it is not used on the BMW Rear wheels.
I had to have a second slimmer rod made to fit through smaller 21" Dirt Bike Front wheels.
You need "Cold Rolled Steel" if you don't want your rod to bend when you are installing a stiff casing tire with your bar.

 

[52184]

For those of you who are using the No-Mar, would you consider the Posi-Clamps and the XtraHand Clamps a must, especially for the 1200RT tires?

I use the tall Posi-Clamps and a pair of Yellow Things and a handful of 1 x 2 x 5 red oak blocks.

Best,
DeVern

 

[pglaves]

I change tires by hand. I have a car wheel welded waist high to a steel post. The wheel is edged with rubber hose. The post is perforated well pipe and has a threaded rod down the center of the post which can be adjusted vertically. I have a 40 year old JC Whitney bead breaker. I use 14 inch tire irons.

Some tires are easy. Some are not. The most pesky were 21 inch tube type front wheels on my F650 Dakar. Fitting that tube with so little space was just aggravating. ME880s on our K75 rear wheels were pretty stiff. Michelin Pilot Roads on our Oilheads have been pretty easy.

My worst experience was removing a 30 year old Continental RB2 from a barn find Airhead a friend bought. I had to use my saber saw to cut the beads to get the tire off.

 

[Wkoppa]

2000 was a good year for tech articles

A long time ago in a galaxy far far away - apologies to all Star Wars fans.


View attachment 2000-10 Bench Wrenching - Changing Your Own Tires.pdf

Wayne Koppa
Grayling, MI
#71,449

 

[PoorUB]

Very valuable input and exactly the kind of heads-up I am looking for. Did you use anything like a No-Mar changer, or all just hand tools like the irons you mentioned?

Mentioned I have the Harbor Freight tire changer in another post. I use it with my BMW tires, but more to hold the rim.