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Can I get a consensus on brake fluid change?

Yes. The question was, when does time meter start for service recommendations? Does it start on assembly month or on in service date? Sorry I added more words than needed, didn't mean to throw anyone off point. A bottle of DOT 4 cost only $3.95 here, you're getting robbed.

Brake fluid ages by absorbing water from the atmosphere. I'd meter from the time the seal on the can of brake fluid was broken.
 
Yes. The question was, when does time meter start for service recommendations? Does it start on assembly month or on in service date? Sorry I added more words than needed, didn't mean to throw anyone off point. A bottle of DOT 4 cost only $3.95 here, you're getting robbed.

The answer to your question is yes. In other words, it does not matter in just about every case except for the brake fluid. Even in the case of brake fluid I doubt it would matter unless you bought a showroom new bike that was from three years before and even then it would likely be okay. This is mouse turd sized issue to me, but a mouse turd can seem huge when it is your ice cream.
 
The answer to your question is yes. In other words, it does not matter in just about every case except for the brake fluid. Even in the case of brake fluid I doubt it would matter unless you bought a showroom new bike that was from three years before and even then it would likely be okay. This is mouse turd sized issue to me, but a mouse turd can seem huge when it is your ice cream.

Or leads to corroded caliper... 34 21 8 535 160 BRAKE CALIPER, REAR 1.50 1 $569.90
 
My two cents-
I like to flush/change brake fluid once a system has been opened or addressing a system with a known problem. No doubt that a system likes fresh fluid but I don’t think it can really tell :)
It’s a sealed system until you open it.
OM
 
At our independent shop I have flushed fluid from not-so-old bikes/ATV's, etc, and have attempted to flush brake systems from older machines. There are times when it is difficult to flush the calipers because the fluid has gotten thick and chunky. Other issues are the brakes seem to seize, mostly because the return port in the master cylinder gets plugged from corrosion products. I have done numerous systems in which the fluid looked like yesterday's coffee, instead of clear, pale yellow. Whether you need to flush the system every year or two years depends on the machine usage and environment. I usually tell customers at least every two years. This is preventive maintenance. The glycol-based fluid does absorb moisture, and the contaminated fluid seems to migrate to the lower parts of the system (calipers). That leads to pitting of the pistons which will eventually need replacement. They are not especially cheap. Ultimately it is your call. If you don't remember the last time you flushed the system, maybe it is time. Keep records.
 
Or leads to corroded caliper... 34 21 8 535 160 BRAKE CALIPER, REAR 1.50 1 $569.90

Sure, and I flush the brakes on all of our bikes every winter and cycle the ABS pumps as well. But this is done on bikes where the brakes are in use. My point is that during the time from when a bike is manufactured until it is put into service, be that months or a few years, I do not think there is significant degradation of the brake fluid. But when in doubt flush the brakes. Costs little and is easy to do.

I will say that on the F800 bikes I watch the brake fluid, especially the rear, very carefully when the bikes are new. I had to change the rear fluid three times in the first year on Annie’s F800GS. Something in the system, the brake line I suspect, fouls the fluid turning it dark brown. It took a couple of years for this to stop. I’ve seen the same phenomenon on a few other F series bikes, but not on any R bikes.
 
I take that first year to mean after first (one) year of service. So, what if the bike went into service October 2018, but has a build date of September 2017?

That delay between manufacture and in-service is exactly why they go one year the first time. Works really well in your example, but will always be based on the assumption that the delay is a year or less. Assumptions like that can't be perfect.

Unless you are really ham-fisted, it doesn't hurt to just change it sooner.
 
That delay between manufacture and in-service is exactly why they go one year the first time. Works really well in your example, but will always be based on the assumption that the delay is a year or less. Assumptions like that can't be perfect.

Unless you are really ham-fisted, it doesn't hurt to just change it sooner.


Agree with your comments. OP here. I did change fluid, as I typically follow manufactures recommendations. I thought this build/in service date difference made for an interesting question. The RT's brake fluid is a "sealed" system, as well sealed as it can be. However, moisture does find its way into it, creating a lower boiling point, as well as a more corrosive environment. I believe it worth $4.00 and less than a hour labor to protect and prevent.
 
I agree with changing our the brake fluid more often than the schedule calls for. My 1100 with ABS 2 is ridiculously easy to bleed. I change the fluid at least once a year. The brake fluid system is not sealed. It must vent to atmosphere to allow for fluid level drop as the pads wear, and I suppose there is also some some thermal expansion as the fluid heats up during brake use.
 
I agree with changing our the brake fluid more often than the schedule calls for. My 1100 with ABS 2 is ridiculously easy to bleed. I change the fluid at least once a year. The brake fluid system is not sealed. It must vent to atmosphere to allow for fluid level drop as the pads wear, and I suppose there is also some some thermal expansion as the fluid heats up during brake use.


"as well sealed as can be"

BTW, attached are 15 month old (when bike assembled) and fresh brake fluid pictures. Certainly not the mud dark I've seen on some (many?) bikes, but definitely a change, even for a bike that sat in a crate or showroom floor for first 14 of those 15 months.
 

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The brake fluid system is not sealed. It must vent to atmosphere to allow for fluid level drop as the pads wear, and I suppose there is also some some thermal expansion as the fluid heats up during brake use.


It is not vented to atmosphere. There is a rubber bellows in the cap that allows the level to change without creating vacuum or pressure within the system. Somehow though, eventually, moisture finds it.
 
My brother traded in his 2006 RT on a new 2015 FJR-ES a few years ago. He bought his RT with maybe 20K miles I forget now but when he sold it there was over 140K on the clock. He never changed the brake fluid after he bought the bike. He lives in the Calif Central Coast and often has marine layer or fog he rides in. His reasoning was that brake fluid changes are not a part of 'routine' maintenance in the cars per se though you will often be a general recommendation of every 5 years or so. I typically buy cars new and keep them for at least 10y. Never changed brake fluid once. Never had a brake problem. He had no braking or other problems with his RT but the theory goes he will be seeing some corrosion to brake fluid exposed parts over time if he didn't replace brake fluid. Given this history, which amounts to never changed brake fluid in 120K miles over about 8 years suggests corrosion must be very minimal to absent obviously in any meaningful way given his use and environment patterns. I won't follow this plan myself on a 'just in case it might matter' basis and it's certainly cheap enough to do. This may change when we move out to Denver area due to longer periods of cold where condensation happens. I have been living in Paradise CA for the last 35y where I rode year round and rarely had to think about condensation. If I stayed in Paradise I would aim to change brake fluid every 4-5y now that I'm out of warranty, but out in Denver I'm thinking every 3y would be sufficient.
 
My brother traded in his 2006 RT on a new 2015 FJR-ES a few years ago. He bought his RT with maybe 20K miles I forget now but when he sold it there was over 140K on the clock. He never changed the brake fluid after he bought the bike. He lives in the Calif Central Coast and often has marine layer or fog he rides in. His reasoning was that brake fluid changes are not a part of 'routine' maintenance in the cars per se though you will often be a general recommendation of every 5 years or so. I typically buy cars new and keep them for at least 10y. Never changed brake fluid once. Never had a brake problem. He had no braking or other problems with his RT but the theory goes he will be seeing some corrosion to brake fluid exposed parts over time if he didn't replace brake fluid. Given this history, which amounts to never changed brake fluid in 120K miles over about 8 years suggests corrosion must be very minimal to absent obviously in any meaningful way given his use and environment patterns. I won't follow this plan myself on a 'just in case it might matter' basis and it's certainly cheap enough to do. This may change when we move out to Denver area due to longer periods of cold where condensation happens. I have been living in Paradise CA for the last 35y where I rode year round and rarely had to think about condensation. If I stayed in Paradise I would aim to change brake fluid every 4-5y now that I'm out of warranty, but out in Denver I'm thinking every 3y would be sufficient.


Your point is well taken. Huge difference in cars vs bikes, especially by climate. Northern States vs somewhere like California. Bikes, for many of us, have a sitting season in the North. Whereas California and many more southern states do not. Sitting, gathering moisture and not being ridden/driven to heat up fluid thereby reducing moisture contend can be a major factor in brake system corrosion. I know, storage of Corvettes and other "seasonal" cars can have the same degrading brake fluid problem as motorcycles (one reason why many later model specialty cars now come with stainless steel caliper bores and pistons). Cars also have a much larger brake fluid capacity, provides more potential for disseminating moisture over a larger medium, slowing percent of moisture buildup by volume.

I'd feel less a need to change fluid as often if I lived in Arizona (year round riding/dry climate) than northern Wisconsin (limited riding season/high moisture climate).
 
I needed to buy a new caliper for my Ford Explorer a couple of years ago. $45.00 One for my R1150R is listed at $520.00 That is reason enough for anyone to treat their BMW motorcycle differently than they treat their car.
 
I needed to buy a new caliper for my Ford Explorer a couple of years ago. $45.00 One for my R1150R is listed at $520.00 That is reason enough for anyone to treat their BMW motorcycle differently than they treat their car.

Reinforcing the saying that the cheapest thing on a BMW is often the rider......:stick :whistle
It's just brake fluid peeps, not some overpriced snake oil...:deal
 
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