I would like to have a few opinions on what to do about a clutch cable that seperates and breaks off right behind the attached eye that goes on the lower end where it actually attaches to the shift lever on the right lower side of the bike. There was no way to get it back into and fixed onto the brass eye so I ended up waiting in the middle of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison for a day while a buddy ran to town 2 hours away............. I could not get it to shift back into gear and didn't want to ruin my transmission in the process . What should a guy do? I know there must be some simple solution, I had a small pair of vise grips and was totally helpless with no clutch. Any ideas?
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Broken Clutch Cable
- Thread starter 74558
- Start date
MCMXCIVRS
More toys than space
I replace mine regularly before it fails, usually around 30-40,000 kms. Also regularly lube the ferrules (never the cable though, it has a teflon liner in the sheath) to keep them from binding and putting stress on the cable end. That is the prime cause of failure of the type you describe.
Another method some use is to tie a spare cable alongside the original to swap into use in case of a break. Saves a bit of work, but not much. I've never carried a spare with me, but usually keep an old one in the shop as a spare.
Another method some use is to tie a spare cable alongside the original to swap into use in case of a break. Saves a bit of work, but not much. I've never carried a spare with me, but usually keep an old one in the shop as a spare.
G
ggfossen
Guest
74558,
I just went through that, last month, with my 80RT. It popped while in traffic at speed. I was able to simply time all the stop signs and lights, and shift with throttle, and too much force on the shift lever. No grinding, if one moves quickly, but it can't be good on things. I managed to get all the way back the RV (about 5 miles in traffic) without coming to a complete stop. All the while I was pondering how I might start it from a dead stop. I would have first tried to simply crank it while in low gear. Didn't have to try it, so I don't know if it would have work. Second would have been to push it up to speed, hop on, jump start, and go.
As stated by others, a spare cable would be a good thing to have, but I don't. About all that would be needed would be maybe a leatherman tool, or something like that.
I decided the best course of action would be a new 12RT. It's on order. I will keep the old bike, and tinker with it's problems, but I will enjoy the hell out of the new bike.
Garr
I just went through that, last month, with my 80RT. It popped while in traffic at speed. I was able to simply time all the stop signs and lights, and shift with throttle, and too much force on the shift lever. No grinding, if one moves quickly, but it can't be good on things. I managed to get all the way back the RV (about 5 miles in traffic) without coming to a complete stop. All the while I was pondering how I might start it from a dead stop. I would have first tried to simply crank it while in low gear. Didn't have to try it, so I don't know if it would have work. Second would have been to push it up to speed, hop on, jump start, and go.
As stated by others, a spare cable would be a good thing to have, but I don't. About all that would be needed would be maybe a leatherman tool, or something like that.
I decided the best course of action would be a new 12RT. It's on order. I will keep the old bike, and tinker with it's problems, but I will enjoy the hell out of the new bike.
Garr
I read somewhere that you can use a pair of vice grips to hold the clutch cable in order to limp home, but I've never done it or seen it done.
ANDYVH
New member
When it comes right down to getting home versus a two-hour wait, you can shift without the clutch. Hopefully you can get the bike to neutral to get it started. Try getting the bike on the centerstand, then while turning the rear tire by hand, hand shift the gearshift to neutral.
Hopefully, position the bike on some slight downhill. Start the bike, coast in neutral with the bike rolling, and tap it firmly into first gear along with slight throttle applied at the same time of the shift. Now you should be rolling!
Now, each lower gear upshift/downshift will be harsh. But it can be done with some practice of preloading the gearshift with your boot, then, lightly "chop" the throttle shut while you lift FIRMLY or press down STRONGLY to make the shift. Make sure you are always slightly on the gas as soon as the shift is made.
The real tough time comes when a stop is required. Hopefully you can shift to neutral while rolling, time it just right, and shift into first while still rolling. When you final stop is made, be prepared for the bike to snub. Best to simply be on the brakes at this point.
When I replace the clutch cable on my RS, I zip-tie the old cable next to the new one. Its right where I need it as my backup should it ever happen. But actually, with good maintenance and greasing of joints, it should never fail. Good luck!
Hopefully, position the bike on some slight downhill. Start the bike, coast in neutral with the bike rolling, and tap it firmly into first gear along with slight throttle applied at the same time of the shift. Now you should be rolling!
Now, each lower gear upshift/downshift will be harsh. But it can be done with some practice of preloading the gearshift with your boot, then, lightly "chop" the throttle shut while you lift FIRMLY or press down STRONGLY to make the shift. Make sure you are always slightly on the gas as soon as the shift is made.
The real tough time comes when a stop is required. Hopefully you can shift to neutral while rolling, time it just right, and shift into first while still rolling. When you final stop is made, be prepared for the bike to snub. Best to simply be on the brakes at this point.
When I replace the clutch cable on my RS, I zip-tie the old cable next to the new one. Its right where I need it as my backup should it ever happen. But actually, with good maintenance and greasing of joints, it should never fail. Good luck!
