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Brake Fluid Change

bogdan

New member
Gentleman, My new to me 2002 R1150R ABS began its' life with me with fresh fluids, except.......for brake and clutch fluids; I don't know when they were last changed. I attended a local Bemmer club meeting - FWIW, Pike's Peak BMW Riders. There, some guys strongly advised me to change the brake fluid. They said problems with the ABS system arise from not changing the brake fluid. On my last ride, a KLR, a brake fluid change was a 1/2 hour job. This isn't the case with an oilhead ABS. Reading the Hays manual the job sure seems complicated. Any thoughts on the urgency of this maintenance ? Are there videos or anything on the internet that are recommended ? Any information appreciated. Oh yeah...any thoughts on the clutch fluid, as well; this is my first bike with a hydraulic clutch.

Bogdan, who started this post with the word gentleman because he's told he's now mounted on a gentleman's ride.
 
Bite the bullet and do it sooner than later. You'll need the bleed screw adapter for the clutch and possibly the brakes too. Beemer Boneyard sells the funnel adapter for the ABS reservoirs. There is a write up with wood shim dimensions to make and use in place of the brake pads, but there was also a post recently regarding using tapered wood shims between the pads and rotors to hold the pistons back in thier bores.

procedure
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/service_abs3.pdf

tools
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/abs3_filling_adapter.pdf

If the fluid that comes out of the clutch system isn't clear, I'd take on the additional pain of removing the slave cylinder and making sure you don't have a leak there. If you can get in there and loosen the screws for the slave cylinder a few turns, a gentle (& partial) squeeze of the clutch lever should pop the slave cylinder flange away from the gearbox housing and let you know if you have a mess or not. Even if there isn't a leak, pulling the slave cylinder to re-grease the throwout bearing and add a weep hole isn't a bad idea. It just takes a bit more work.
 
Thank you RXCRIDER - for your advice and information. BTW...is it possible, on this forum, to thank someone directly without adding to the thread ?

Bogdan
 
Besides the fluid which should be changed every 2 years, does the bike still have the black rubber brake lines?
If so, the must be changed out to SS Teflon ones asap. (Spiegler being a good choice)
They all fail, either by blocking the brake system with rubber particles or bulging suddenly and resulting in a total loss of that brake circuit.
Follow this thread (as well as many others) for more info
http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?80711-Back-to-the-future
 
Sure, just click on the person's handle (username) at the top left of the post, you'll get a little pull-down menu, and then click on Private Message, that opens up the private mail function.

And yes get the brakes & clutch thoroughly bled! Being a 2002 model, you're due for brake lines upgrading. There is NO down side to doing that (I've talked to a few folks who think it'll change the ABS action - it does not).
 
Thank you RXCRIDER - for your advice and information. BTW...is it possible, on this forum, to thank someone directly without adding to the thread ?

Bogdan

Yes

PM%252520from%252520Thread.jpg
 
Besides the fluid which should be changed every 2 years, does the bike still have the black rubber brake lines?
If so, the must be changed out to SS Teflon ones asap. (Spiegler being a good choice)
They all fail, either by blocking the brake system with rubber particles or bulging suddenly and resulting in a total loss of that brake circuit.
Follow this thread (as well as many others) for more info
http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?80711-Back-to-the-future

Any idea as to the age or mileage by which they will all fail? I've had 30 year old cars with their original brake lines still functioning fine. I just replaced the lines on my '95 R1100RS and the originals were performing just fine with no fluid flow issues or particles while bleeding. I figured I'd do it as long as I was rebuilding the master cylinder, and I think the feel at the lever firmed up a bit as a result, but there was no sign of failure as far as I could tell. If it makes a difference, the original brake lines had a molded rubber finish on the outside, not the black braided cloth cover shown in your photo in the other thread.
 
Impossible to truly "predict", but all of the older Oilheads had/have el cheapo lines which break down INTERNALLY over time. Lots of pictures in several threads.

I had a 10-year-old Ford with two bad lines...
 
Boy oh boy....... another typo or - as they say in Washington D.C. - I misspoke. My ride is a 2004 - not 2002 that I wrote. GSADDICT and PUALS1150 stated that 2002 brake lines should be upgraded to teflon. Is that true of 2004 brake lines as well ?
 
My ride is a 2004 - not 2002 that I wrote. GSADDICT and PUALS1150 stated that 2002 brake lines should be upgraded to teflon. Is that true of 2004 brake lines as well ?

In a word - yes. They're 11 years old. Just do it. You can thank us later!:thumb
 
Boy oh boy....... another typo or - as they say in Washington D.C. - I misspoke. My ride is a 2004 - not 2002 that I wrote. GSADDICT and PUALS1150 stated that 2002 brake lines should be upgraded to teflon. Is that true of 2004 brake lines as well ?

If they are Black Rubber -YES
 
Is there a write up on changing out the brake lines? I have done the bleed procedure a couple times on my 03 RT but I still have the OEM lines. Just trying to avoid any stupid mistakes.
 
Is there a write up on changing out the brake lines? I have done the bleed procedure a couple times on my 03 RT but I still have the OEM lines. Just trying to avoid any stupid mistakes.

Search Utube, Chris Harris has done one IIRC.
Be prepared for some foul language tho'
 
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