BMW 1250 GSA Short Rider questions

[mailviveknarayan]

I bought a 22 BMW 1250 GSA and it’s not a factory lowered version . My height is 5’9 and I’m little short to be able to flat foot. I bought wunderlich seat height lowering which reduces the seat hit by 10mm ( 1/3 of an inch ) and my shoes has some height increasing insole and with all this I’m barely able to flat foot .. anybody in the same height or shorter and riding a factory non lowered version who can share tips? Low seat is an option but without cushion it might sacrifice comfort I feel. Let me know

 

[HSVPhil]

All I can say is: Practice & more Practice!

There’s also coaching or BMW training... I know a young lady who’s shorter than U, and she managed to complete the Iron Butt on a GSA. You simply get used to stopping and putting one foot down whilst shifting your butt way over to either side depending on the slope of the road. It’s certainly not easy for a shorter rider to manhandle a gigantic GSA.

Guessing you’ve got major goals in mind for this new Motorrad machine.
Good Luck!
Sláinte! HSV-Phil & HSV-Karen

 

[Visian]

I bought a 22 BMW 1250 GSA and it’s not a factory lowered version . My height is 5’9 and I’m little short to be able to flat foot. I bought wunderlich seat height lowering which reduces the seat hit by 10mm ( 1/3 of an inch ) and my shoes has some height increasing insole and with all this I’m barely able to flat foot .. anybody in the same height or shorter and riding a factory non lowered version who can share tips? Low seat is an option but without cushion it might sacrifice comfort I feel. Let me know

Welcome to the Forum (and to the MOA!)

It's a lot cheaper to learn how to scooch your butt over to one side of the saddle and use just one foot to support yourself at a stop.

When mounting your bike, put it on the sidestand, raise your right leg/foot and slide over the saddle instead of swinging your leg over the rear of the bike while trying to hold your bike vertical. Another approach is to mount your bike (while on its sidestand) from the right... police officer style.

Or, if you use my "Roy Rogers" technique for mounting/taking off on my very-tall HP2 enduro... put the bike in gear, put your left foot on the peg, feather out the clutch to get rolling, while simultaneously hopping up to standing on the left peg and swing your right leg over and then sit down.

If you want to look cool while coming to a stop & dismounting, stand up as you are coming to a stop, swing your right leg up and over, pivot on the left footpeg while putting your right foot on the ground. This takes some practice, and if you want to look über cool, you can flip your sidestand down with your right foot prior to putting it on the ground. Once your foot is on the ground, let the bike lean over on the stand and you really look like you know wtf you're doing!

Don't give up... and practice, practice, practice.

Ian

ps -> if you're considering aftermarket suspension, be sure before you buy that the shocks do not increase the ride height.

 

[motorhead1977]

I hear your angst!

As an inseam challenged (29" inseam, 5'10" tall) male rider I have had to limit my rides to those I could "adjust" to my requirements. While I understand that many insist you can get "comfortable" in sliding your butt over and using only 1 leg at every stop, I have lived in constant concern of the time that that one stop resulted in my placing my landing foot in a largely unnoticeable low spot on the pavement and the next thing you know, "Bob's your uncle!" but you get the repair bills. I can't imagine having to use that style "off piste" as we used to say in the ski instructor world. Low seat?? Speak with someone who has a GS low seat for the best info. A custom narrower seat can help compensate for some of our shortness if you're willing to spend the $$ which is still less money than a lowered suspension or a new bike.
I put a low seat on my 1200RT and it was even more uncomfortable than the standard RT seat. I had a VFR800 that I lowered 1.5" after having nearly lost it at a stop on my first ride with the bike because it was just too tall. One of the reasons I sold my 1200RT was the inability to get it low enough to flat foot. I switched to a 1250RS after sitting on one at the dealership and discovering that I could nearly flat foot it despite its spec'd 32" seat height. The optional low seat for my RS was much better height wise but still not really "long ride" comfortable. Do I have an option for you? Unfortunately no, other than to keep trying and looking for solutions. Good luck on your quest and in any event, enjoy the GSA. You're a braver soul than I

 

[crna59]

I bought a 22 BMW 1250 GSA and it’s not a factory lowered version . My height is 5’9 and I’m little short to be able to flat foot. I bought wunderlich seat height lowering which reduces the seat hit by 10mm ( 1/3 of an inch ) and my shoes has some height increasing insole and with all this I’m barely able to flat foot .. anybody in the same height or shorter and riding a factory non lowered version who can share tips? Low seat is an option but without cushion it might sacrifice comfort I feel. Let me know

As an instructor, I've seen/heard it all... all of the above are good suggestions. But, what happens if you're in stop/go traffic for a few miles? And the low dip in the road? Or an off camber intersection? One of the first things I tell my students is to get a bike that fits!
That being said, I got a lowered suspension/seat GS and love it. I actually have a bend in my knees and am looking for a standard/comfort seat. If yours has the heat option, I will trade you.....

 

[88bmwjeff]

Perhaps watching a video or two from other "inseam challenged" riders. Jocelyn Snow is one of those--she's about 5'2". She has some videos where she gives some advice. Here's the first video in a six-video series. While I'm not inseam challenged, I found the videos interesting to watch.

 

[Visian]

As an instructor, I've seen/heard it all... all of the above are good suggestions. But, what happens if you're in stop/go traffic for a few miles? And the low dip in the road? Or an off camber intersection? One of the first things I tell my students is to get a bike that fits!

Hi, I think you might be a buddy of Bill Shaw (aka Mr. Clean)... and he says you know what you're talking about. But maybe what you're saying is more important to less-experienced riders? Maybe it's because I rode motocross and enduro all my life, but stop/go, off-camber, low dips are all easily handled with the butt-scooch, along with careful observation of the "landing zone" as I approach it.

The problem with "the bike that fits" (at least for me, an advrider), is that my preference is for excellent suspension that can take a (fairly) big hit while carrying gear. Off-pavement, and on surfaces that are rougher than a graded gravel road is where the lowered bikes are weakest, imo. (but not getting into that argument again!) Seat height is not so much of a priority, nor is flat-footing with two, or even one foot.

All that said, as I age, I have discovered the joy of smaller, lighter motorcycles. I sold my last heavy/tall bike and now only own one BMW, the original G/S... which I am pretty sure is a bit shorter than today's GS.

But.... I am currently shopping for a Honda CRF450-L

Ian
5'8" w/29" inseam

Both bikes are gone, but not forgotten. (I do not know what I was thinking about selling the HP2e...)

 

[oldranger]

A new perspective.

I’m new to this kind of riding but I thought carefully before buying my 2023 1250GSA low ride height. I’m 6’0”, 185lbs with a 33” inseam. I’m plenty tall for the normal ride height version but opted for the lowered for my desired riding (commuting and gravel roads, sometimes with a passenger). My recommendation is to a) trade your bike for a low version or b) practice and take advantage of the additional travel in the suspension by riding fast, technical off pavement.

Do not try and modify it. There’s a lot going on in the differences and it’s not worth it. From the springs to the damping in the shock to the center stand - the standard vs. low are different in many ways. It’s cost prohibitive to lower the bike.

To explain myself, I’m drawing upon over 10 years of extensive experience mountain biking (in my 40’s) in all kinds of terrain, including downhill racing. Coincidentally, a typical do-it-all trail bike has about 150 mm of travel and is designed to take you anywhere (sound familiar?) A typical downhill race bike has about 200 mm of travel, these bikes are designed to go fast of a rough terrain in the hands of an expert. In the data I’ve looked at, there is a similarity in the suspension travel between MTBs and GSAs, with the normal height GSA having about 50mm more travel than the low version.

I can take my 150 mm trail bike everywhere I can take my 200 mm downhill race bike, I just have to adjust the speed accordingly (go slower). It’s also a rougher ride and I don’t have as much traction on the small bike. That said, I rarely use my DH race bike to its potential. Candidly I’ve estimated that even as a top ranked amateur downhill racer, at age 40+ I’ve only been able to use the full capability of my downhill race bikes about 5% of the time I’m riding them maybe less.

Someday…if I want to go faster or more technical off road, I may trade for a normal height GSA. It’s probably more likely I would get a second bike.

 

[henzilla]

Great first post and thoughts

Welcome to the forum

 

[Visian]

Someday…if I want to go faster or more technical off road, I may trade for a normal height GSA. It’s probably more likely I would get a second bike.

Good thoughts, much along my rationale, too… but one thing you may not be considering is the weight of the luggage on the bike, and many of us carry a significant quantity of gear while hammering over rough surfaces (paved and unpaved). Weight eats up suspension travel almost as quickly as speed (when impacting bumps)… this is why I posted the pics of my two bikes… those photos were part of an article I wrote for BMW ON about optimal suspension setup and loading/packing technique for advriding.

You are absolutely correct about the cost to switch to a lowered bike. I am guessing that it is roughly a $5k proposition for parts and labor.

Here’s what I did with the HP2e after the photo shoot…. Good lord that bike was dangerous…

 

[37482]

Lowering

I bought a 22 BMW 1250 GSA and it’s not a factory lowered version . My height is 5’9 and I’m little short to be able to flat foot. I bought wunderlich seat height lowering which reduces the seat hit by 10mm ( 1/3 of an inch ) and my shoes has some height increasing insole and with all this I’m barely able to flat foot .. anybody in the same height or shorter and riding a factory non lowered version who can share tips? Low seat is an option but without cushion it might sacrifice comfort I feel. Let me know

My wife and her sister bought 2022 GS's with factory lowered suspension. They are both 5'2" and were very much too short to be flat footing on the bikes. On my wife's previous 2014 R1200 R naked bike we installed shorter shocks, but they were too stiff for a good ride. On the new bikes, we contacted Ted Porter's Beemer shop for suggestions. He sells Tractive shocks, made in Holland but designed for shorter riders. You send him your entire rear shock so he can transfer the electronic adjusting device to the new shorter unit. The front shock is ready to go as he sells it. He returns your old rear shock with the new rear shock and the new front shock. You or your dealer does the removal of the old units and the installation of the new ones. I did it on both bikes, Pretty straight forward. The bike has all the great ride quality of the factory setup. It's just as adjustable for ride height and all other modes. All this but closer to the ground. When you talk to Ted, you will be able to decide how much lower you want to be and he'll make it happen. Both my wife and her sister are very happy with this setup. You will be without a bike for about 2 weeks while the units are being shipped to and from his shop. The price is about $2K or was last year. I don't hesitate to recommend this system.

 

[Visian]

When you talk to Ted, you will be able to decide how much lower you want to be and he'll make it happen. Both my wife and her sister are very happy with this setup. You will be without a bike for about 2 weeks while the units are being shipped to and from his shop. The price is about $2K or was last year. I don't hesitate to recommend this system.

Good info!

 

[wizened]

I agree with lowering!

Similar to above I had my 2018 1200RT shocks removed by my local dealer (Eurosport Asheville) and they sent to an outfit in CA (Ted Porter's Beemer Shop) where they did the same replacement. They should ask about every detail of size, weight, riding style, pillion, weight you carry, . . . It has to end up at your local dealer so that the lowered shock unit (in case you do it yourself!) can be recalibrated with your ESA. At Teds, they use Ohlin or Tractive (or they used to), the latter being more expensive (by $6-700 I believe), and more track oriented. Obviously the RT is not a GS but it's the same procedure. For twisties it does change my cornering dynamics a bit, and I can scrape if I'm not paying attention to keeping the bike upright through curves. You, or people in your circle, might know of some circumstances off road that might give you similar difficulties. I'm a 5'6" old fart with a 29" inseam (some settling of contents has occurred with age). Good Luck!

 

[WALSTIBSF]

Re: GSA seat height

I bought a 22 BMW 1250 GSA and it’s not a factory lowered version . My height is 5’9 and I’m little short to be able to flat foot. I bought wunderlich seat height lowering which reduces the seat hit by 10mm ( 1/3 of an inch ) and my shoes has some height increasing insole and with all this I’m barely able to flat foot .. anybody in the same height or shorter and riding a factory non lowered version who can share tips? Low seat is an option but without cushion it might sacrifice comfort I feel. Let me know

Another mod I’ve used with success is a BMW rally seat. More narrow than stock and much easier to move around on. Really shines for dual sport type riding.

I’m 5’9” and it really works for me.

Cheers and best of luck!

 

[brownie0486]

My take on moving the butt to one side or the other to plant one foot instead of actually being able to at least get both balls of the feet on the ground.

NO THANK YOU.

It's a workaround at best and it's not if but when you run into a situation that your one foot scootching off the seat doesn't touch down until the bike is over far enough to want to take a nap. Yes, that little girl on her GS does wonderful things in mounting and dismounting. I'm not that enamored with learning how to look cool [ as someone else mentioned ] by performing a rolling mount simply because during the learning curve I'm likely to drop the bike [ maybe not so much mounting but the dismounting ] .If you don't have both perfected it can get costly in repairs/cosmetics ].

How does one perfect any skill? Trial and error. The learning curve [ reward ] in this instance isn't worth the risk of dropping the motor, at least not for me.

My GS was both balls of feet touching down, the RS I bend the knees and touch down, the RT stock seat almost flat footed scooting up near the tank at a stop. The GSA was never in the cards for this vertically challenged [ inseam ] rider. I'd entertain Ted Porter building me the correct shocks to fit the bike AND ME, and may well do that if I decide to keep the RT for another 4-5 years.

 

[swall]

I have always found that BMW Airheads fit me OK, but when I got into dual sport riding with a Suzuki DR 650, it was problematic. OK 99% of the time, but when a situation arises where you have to make an unanticipated stop, and all bets are off. Never sure what side I would come down on. I lowered the bike per the factory lowering kit and a Corbin seat. Riding a too tall bike will eventually bite you.