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Bing Carb ID mismatched to model (323&324 on a R80ST)

For setting valve clearances, you obviously have the valve covers off. With the transmission in top gear, turn the rear wheel until you see the intake valve open then close. You are beginning the compression stroke on that side. Sit by the bike and use your hand to lightly bump the engine around until you see the various marks. In most cases, the OT mark is not the OT letters but the line next to it. Generally there is some movement forward/backward around this point that does not move the valves at all...kind of a dead zone. You could set the valve clearances anywhere in this small region.
 
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Also called the "flat" of the cam, since there is no lift there. If and When set correctly, you'll be able to jiggle both pushrods on that side; and since the "other" cylinder is 360° away, it will Not have the clearances.
 
Addendum to my post #17 -
This may not matter at all for an Airhead, which doesn't have its fuel mix and exhaust gases continually monitored by a computer trying to constantly make adjustments to how much fuel is squirted in and when, or changing the ignition timing.
Neither slide nor CV carbs react as quickly, nor as precisely, as fuel injection, but keeping a good vacuum certainly has a direct impact on how well an FI system will work.
Of course, one does not want to introduce "extra unknown factors" into an airhead system either, so I'm not going to apologize for being overly analytical.

And there is no such thing as a "potentially stupid" question; if one person has a question, do not doubt that others have that same question. One of the purposes of forums like this is to alleviate ignorance, and it's only "stupid" if somebody refuses to learn from, or at least take into consideration, what we are trying to share.
(hey, did we lose that "old geezer" smilie??)
 
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And there is no such thing as a "potentially stupid" question; if one person has a question, do not doubt that others have that same question. One of the purposes of forums like this is to alleviate ignorance, and it's only "stupid" if somebody refuses to learn from, or at least take into consideration, what we are trying to share.
(hey, did we lose that "old geezer" smilie??)
Really appreciate it. I try to spend the time and effort to resolve myself (best way to learn these machines), but sometimes frustration takes over, or just a need to hit the easy button and ask someone who is more knowledgable. It is also nice to get confirmation on what I think I already know.

I finally got it running today! Was chasing my tail on a fuel issue - would only run on choke. Suspected it was both bad fuel from PO and fuel level in carbs - so I cheated and replaced with ethanol free 4 stroke from the hardware store, messed with the floats and fuel lines a bit (they badly need to be replaced), and she ran well enough to test ride. Those twin opposing 400cc cylinders and direct-drive sure do hit harder than an in-line 4 cylinder 500cc. Need to warm it up this weekend and attempt the balance the carbs. The pre-balance process of setting the idle and mix screw is new to me vs the process on the 4-carb rack I have on the Honda - so need to research that a bit more.
 
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