Another Shift Assist thread - sorry

[alegerlotz]

My 2016 RT has about 1800 miles on it.

A few times over the past week or so, I've had trouble using shift assist to downshift into second as I'm approaching a stop light. Today it happened a couple of times, but then shifting up with the shift assist was clunkier than normal as well going into 3rd.

I realized that for 99% of the time I've had the bike, I've been in "Road" mode, and a few days ago, I changed to Dynamic to try that out. I am wondering if Dynamic has something to do with the issues I've been seeing.

This evening I changed back to Road and the shift assist is still clunkier than before sometimes. Other times its buttery smooth, even downshifting into 2nd approaching a stop light/sign.

SO, I'm wondering what the reset/reprogram procedure is for the shift assist on the RT. I searched for this and found varied answers, most of which were attributed to being either for a GS or for an S1000R.

Any help would be appreciated... I want my smooth shifting back on my virtually new bike!

(cross posted on the bmwlt forum as well)

 

[jpl77]

Look for my thread, I had similar issues, took it to the dealer and they fixed a few items.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

 

[20774]

Look for my thread, I had similar issues, took it to the dealer and they foxed a few items

I believe his thread is the first one listed in the Similar Threads pane at the bottom of the screen.

 

[zenwhipper]

Here is how I use shift assist on my 2016.

Only upshifting gears from 2-3, 3-4, 4-5 and 5-6 (not so often in this change).

Never 1-2. Too choppy on my bike.

AND, I really only use it when I am hard on the throttle - which makes it feel buttery smooth.

Lastly- I do not like using it for downshifts. Feels odd to me.

YMMV.

Scott

 

[jpl77]

Lastly- I do not like using it for downshifts. Feels odd to me.

YMMV.

Scott

Totally closed throttle is the only way to get a good down shift on mine. I usually roll off, break hard and hit it down,pretty much no problems that way


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[powwow]

Here is how I use shift assist on my 2016.

Only upshifting gears from 2-3, 3-4, 4-5 and 5-6 (not so often in this change).

Never 1-2. Too choppy on my bike.

AND, I really only use it when I am hard on the throttle - which makes it feel buttery smooth.

Lastly- I do not like using it for downshifts. Feels odd to me.

YMMV.

Scott

I don't generally use shift assist on the 1-2, but it can be done smoothly. I've found, at least on my bike, it must be done almost immediately after taking off from a complete stop. If the revs build at all, it will be very choppy. Since I normally like to build the revs a bit before shifting, I usually clutch the 1-2. On downshifts, I shift assist every gear all the way to 1...works like butter.

 

[exgman]

I've found that shift assist works best when under strong/heavy throttle going up in gears, and with the throttle closed going down.

I never use it going up for the 1 to 2 shift. 2 to 3 is choppy, but the rest are butter-smooth.

Going down they're all good, but occasionally my RT will pop into neutral going from two to one. I do worry about deceleration without an indication of such to following vehicles, so I usually light up my RT's brake lights and Skene P3s with a touch on the front brake lever.

 

[36654]

For some reason, I just reach for the clutch and tap the shifter when I need to change gears. It seems to work.

I try to use the shift assist thing, but old habits are hard to break.

 

[alegerlotz]

I completed the following procedure (as described in a couple of different places on the internet) and the shift assist is working perfectly again

Started the bike in 1st and ran it in each gear for at least 10 seconds.
I was on the center stand (with all of my weight very forward!) and used the shift assist to upshift each time [I don't know that it matters if you use the shift assist or not]
When I was done in 6th gear, I used the clutch and downshifted all the way to 1st.

I took the bike for a ride after that and its working great now... Upshifts and downshifts are just like when I got the bike.

 

[skibumwi]

I completed the following procedure (as described in a couple of different places on the internet) and the shift assist is working perfectly again

Started the bike in 1st and ran it in each gear for at least 10 seconds.
I was on the center stand (with all of my weight very forward!) and used the shift assist to upshift each time [I don't know that it matters if you use the shift assist or not]
When I was done in 6th gear, I used the clutch and downshifted all the way to 1st.

I took the bike for a ride after that and its working great now... Upshifts and downshifts are just like when I got the bike.

I followed the procedure outlined and, I must say, the shift assist works MUCH better than it did before. I can now go from 4th to 3rd to 2nd in a very smooth manner. I also discovered while poking around on the internet that the best way to use the downshift is to have the throttle shut down while you perform the downshift. Once I started doing that I could go all the way down to 1st very smoothly.

However I did notice that when I had the bike in 1st, on the center stand, I noticed some rather alarming clunking coming from the final drive. As a result I took it to my dealer and demonstrated the noise. The mechanic told me that the sound was normal for the most recent drive train for the RT and GS and that BMW had changed the recommended calibration (programming) procedure to be performed while riding the bike - not on the center stand.

FWIW,
Ski

 

[pkpilot]

I followed the procedure outlined and, I must say, the shift assist works MUCH better than it did before. I can now go from 4th to 3rd to 2nd in a very smooth manner. I also discovered while poking around on the internet that the best way to use the downshift is to have the throttle shut down while you perform the downshift. Once I started doing that I could go all the way down to 1st very smoothly.

However I did notice that when I had the bike in 1st, on the center stand, I noticed some rather alarming clunking coming from the final drive. As a result I took it to my dealer and demonstrated the noise. The mechanic told me that the sound was normal for the most recent drive train for the RT and GS and that BMW had changed the recommended calibration (programming) procedure to be performed while riding the bike - not on the center stand.

FWIW,
Ski

Interesting comment on the noise from the FD after the reprogramming. I found the same issue, but have not been to the dealer yet. It will be interesting what they say and if matches what the dealer said to you.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[skibumwi]

Interesting comment on the noise from the FD after the reprogramming. I found the same issue, but have not been to the dealer yet. It will be interesting what they say and if matches what the dealer said to you.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Actually, the noise was there both before and after the reprogramming.


Ski

 

[lee]

I also discovered while poking around on the internet that the best way to use the downshift is to have the throttle shut down while you perform the downshift.

I don't want to sound snarky, but the manual tells you to fully close the throttle on downshifts.

 

[lee]

However I did notice that when I had the bike in 1st, on the center stand, I noticed some rather alarming clunking coming from the final drive.

My K1200RS, K1300S and R1200RS did not like running in first gear on the centerstand.
I've tried it on my bikes and my wife's bikes and they all made nasty noises because there was no load on the drivetrain.
I'm a slow learner

 

[pglaves]

My K1200RS, K1300S and R1200RS did not like running in first gear on the centerstand.
I've tried it on my bikes and my wife's bikes and they all made nasty noises because there was no load on the drivetrain.
I'm a slow learner

They all do that. Even my chain drive bikes.

 

[skibumwi]

I'm a slow learner

But not snarky.

It's hard to break years and years of riding habit....but I CAN be taught.

Ski

 

[azgman]

My K1200RS, K1300S and R1200RS did not like running in first gear on the centerstand.
I've tried it on my bikes and my wife's bikes and they all made nasty noises because there was no load on the drivetrain.
I'm a slow learner

They make an even nastier noise if they come off of the center stand while running in first gear...

 

[roofus]

I don't generally use shift assist on the 1-2, but it can be done smoothly. I've found, at least on my bike, it must be done almost immediately after taking off from a complete stop. If the revs build at all, it will be very choppy. Since I normally like to build the revs a bit before shifting, I usually clutch the 1-2. On downshifts, I shift assist every gear all the way to 1...works like butter.

I will have to try your recommendation for shifting from 1-2 (shifting very early)

I uses shift assist from 2-6 up and 6-1 down without problem. Shifting up from 1-2 is very rough and I use the clutch.

Perhaps an earlier shift will help.

 

[ncpbmw1953]

For some reason, I just reach for the clutch and tap the shifter when I need to change gears. It seems to work.

I try to use the shift assist thing, but old habits are hard to break.

I did a custom ordered '16 on Jan '16 and decided to leave Shift Assist off to save $500 and because I figured who needs it. After reading the positive reports about it I was a little disappointed, but having learned this bike (and most others) can be easily & smoothly upshifted w/o the clutch, in particular from 4-5, 5-6 which I do all the time and have for 17K miles now I'm fine w/o Shift Assist. As you well know clutch lever force is ultra benign on RTW. I see SAP largely as a gimmick and as others frequently mention they either like to use the clutch, or use SAP only when gunning it, and most often don't use it in the 1st two shifts anyway. I know it works real well but in the end it has little practical value for me. If you need to get from 0 to 70 to get into traffic on a short onramp it's hard to do much better than you can just by staying in 3rd or 4th gear all the way up.

 

[apexal]

I've found that shift assist works best when under strong/heavy throttle going up in gears, and with the throttle closed going down.
I never use it going up for the 1 to 2 shift. 2 to 3 is choppy, but the rest are butter-smooth.
Going down they're all good, but occasionally my RT will pop into neutral going from two to one. I do worry about deceleration without an indication of such to following vehicles, so I usually light up my RT's brake lights and Skene P3s with a touch on the front brake lever.

I agree. Shift assist works best when under strong/heavy throttle going up in gears, and with the throttle completely closed going down. I never use it upshifting from 1 to 2. Downshifts from 2 to 1 are good for me, too, although I'm probably using the clutch and brakes at the point.. This applies to my 2016 R1200GSA and my 2017 R1200GS.