added an R80 to the stable

[CRUISIN]

Greetings all,

I added an R80 to the stable on Saturday. This sort of takes me back to the days of my first beemer, an R75/6 purchased in the fall of '77. Now that I have an airhead, I need to seek the advice of those in the know. The bike is a '79 model with ~35K on the clock, has new tires, new paint & fresh top-end. A couple of problems though. First, it has not been started in 6 years and second, I will need to shorten it a considerable amount to handle safely at low speeds and at stops. I have a 27" inseam and handle my other two beemers quite well (the RT is lowered about 2" though). So, to open the can-O-worms, what advice do you have to make this an enjoyable experience? I would like to keep any changes to a point that I can convert back to original equipment if I ever decide to sell it. Otherwise, I am planning on making this a part-time commuter and part-time weekend pleasure cruiser for the wife and myself.

Here it is the way I brought it home on Saturday. I have some work to do and am lookng forward to diving in, but want to do it right. That's why I came here to seek advice from those who own and maintain their airheads themselves. The big driving lights will be swapped out for something smaller and more attractive and I plan to add some LEDs to the rear. Other than that and the lowering, I sort of feel like airheads are sacred ground that shouldn't be tampered with too much.

 

[20774]

Oooh, flat top carbs...fun!!

As for starting the first time, I suppose there are a lot of approaches. Usually one changes fluids after they're warmed up. In this case, I'd change them immediately and probably once again after the first ride or two. Probably change the filter quite quickly too. I've heard about running various things in the oil (kerosene, diesel, ??) in order to help flush out some of the "toxins"...I'd just do some repeated flushings.

RE: lowering the height... Seems to me there are only two ways - rear shock and the seat. But changing the rear shock will alter the steering geometry...not sure what that will do to overall stability and steering forces. Having the seat customized could be something you could switch back and forth, especially if you found a useable seat pan that you could have someone reupholster. What sort of things did you do to the RT? I guess if that worked for you there, maybe that's something you could try on the R80.

Kurt in S.A.

 

[Polarbear]

Long time Airhead here, too.

But I do not know how to lower the front safely; the rear shocks can be built shorter. The front end may be shorter with a machined(special)top triple clamp, that would allow you to slide the fork tubes up. Just an idea for a machinist to figure. Those snow flakes are a bit rare nowadays. Inspect them very, very carefully for rim damage from potholes, etc. They were known to easily get damaged this way. I used those ME33 Lazers on the front for a while too and found better K491's from Dunlop, to last a lot longer and do as well in handling. My Lazers went away quickly in the mileage department. Chaparral Motorsports via the web has most tires and still has the DunlopK491's at 75/85$, front/rear. Shipping is free over a 100$. San Bernadino,CA is where they are.
Pretty bike

 

[CRUISIN]

back on track

OK folks a few other things like some looooooooong rides on the cruiser, six grandkids, work, etc. got in the way of jumping right in on this project. I started in again today by doing the same thing I did to an '85 Honda Rebel a few years ago. The Rebel too, had sat for six years out in the weather. I followed the advice of some friends experienced in rebuilding and restoring engines that had been idle for long periods of time. I filled the whole kit-n-kaboodle with transmission fluid to let it sit and work it's "magic" for a few weeks. Meanwhile I plan on researching lowering methods. First, of course, I will locate a seat pan and build my own seat. I have done that with great success on both the RT and the C. I guess the next step will be to see just how much more I need to lower it and begin at the front shocks. Once I have slammed the front as far as I think will meet my needs, (or as far as possible) I will have custom shocks made from one companies that specializes in that. (Works, Fox, Wilburs, Ohlins) The goal with the rear shocks will be to match the amount lowered in the front. That way I can be reasonably certain I have maintained the original geometry.

It's kind of funny what happend with an ad I ran on IBMWR. I had one fella call and leave a number stating he thought he had just what I needed to complete the entire project. But every time I have tried the number I get the phone co. recording saying the call cannot be completed as dialed. I don't know if he was legitimate or not or maybe just gave a wrong number. Anyway if RC is here from area code 628 I would like to discuss those parts you have.

Also coming from the IBMWR ad were a couple of people imploring me to not lower the R80 at all as it would ruin it. Well I don't want to be tacky or anything but I successfully lowered my '98 RT and have put over 70K miles on it since Nov. 2001 without any adverse effects with the exception that I cannot lean it quite as far as a stock RT. That is a trade-off I am willing to accept to minimize the chance of dropping any or all of my bikes in low speed maneuvers; mostly while stopped or in the process of stopping.

 

[sumran]

First of all, nice looking bike! I am sure it will take some work to get everything right, but I hope you enjoy it for many years.

Part of enjoying it is making it comfortable for you to ride. You are obviously thinking through the process and being careful about maintaining the bike's characteristic charm. I am amused that others feel a need to talk you out of reasonable modifications to the bike, even though it is your butt in the seat and your wallet paying the freight.

I have been told by some that you can get 1-1/2" to 2" from the seat, without the expense or geometry changes that result from suspension work. There is a company called butt buffer that rebuilds seats and lowers them. http://www.buttbuffer.com/ is their web address. I have not used their product but have heard good reports. The local rep stopped by and gave me some pointers when l installed my double bucket (which I did not buy from him). No charge for his trouble, just an interest in helping a fellow rider.

Let us know how it turns out.

 

[CRUISIN]

thanks

I appreciate the link. Many years ago when I was younger, stronger, and had no titanium rods in my back, I easily handled my R75 with a lowered bucket-style seat. Like you stated, 1 to 2" from the seat is a hope I have. At that point I will carefuly test ride to see if any more is needed. Since this bike will be primarily used for short rides, an all day comfort seat is not as high a priority as it was when iI built the seats for the C and RT.

 

[CRUISIN]

some more ??s

While this is on the front page, what are the preferred types of fluids & other consumables currently being used on the airheads?

engine oil?
trans fluid?
final drive?
brake shoes & pads?
filters?

good sources for oil / air filters?

any idiosyncrasies in the R80 I should know about?

The only airhead I have driven since 1980 was a friend's R100RS for about 20 miles one day while he got a taste of the R1200C. I'm sort of starting all over with a blast from the past with this ride.

 

[sumran]

You shouldn't start more than one argument at a time!

 

[CRUISIN]

oops

You shouldn't start more than one argument at a time!

never really thought about it quite like that. If this pans out without self destructing, I could use it as several chapters in a potentially best selling novel.

I think I'll just hide & watch for a while now.

 

[sumran]

Where do you live and ride? That will probably affect the lube choices you make. It will also be important to know how your bike behaves. If everything is tight and it doesn't leak or burn any, synthetics may make sense. They lubricate better and are more stable. If you are working with a vehicle you know well, you can safely increase service intervals. If you are losing some and adding frequently the economics don't work very well.

I am using dino oils now because I have an older bike that has been using it since it was new. Because the bike is new to me, I need to ride it through several changes to determine its habits and plug all the leaks. I ride in Florida where it is hot most of the time and never gets cold by German standards, so the thick stuff works best for me. My mechanic recommends Penzoil HD 40. I am using that for now, but I expect to change to 20w-50 at the next change. If I rebuilt an engine it would never have anything but synthetic in it. You said yours has a fresh top end.

Making sure the seals and gaskets are in good condition probaly matters more than what type of oil is in there. I would recommend changing all of the fluids to establish a baseline. Have them changed by someone that is really familiar with airheads. They will know a lot about the condition of your bike from "reading" the fluids. I would also suggest that you service the wheel bearings and steering head bearings. Be sure to completely change the brake fluid. Once those things are done you can ride safely and collect good data about your ride.

I would like to hear how things ended up with the seat as well. Enjoy.

 

[CRUISIN]

moving forward

OK, I'm moving forward with this. I spent a little time last night cleaning areas that had obvious collection points of fluids+dirt/dust and noted them to better keep an eye on them once all fluids have been renewed. I also spent a good amount of time studying the setup on the handle bar cradles. I see a pretty easy way to make my own risers for very little cost and will shoot for getting them up to point where I can easily get about a 2" drop on the front by bringing the forks up through the triple-tree. And to keep the geometry some-what equalized will probably order a new set of custom rear shocks to match the drop in the front. I am still looking for a seat pan to build my own seat on so I don't screw up the original. (Or a good original so I can use this one to experiment on). Have started draining fluids and flushing things out with mild solvents and soaking parts in transmission fluid. I would also like to locate a good shop manual before I tear into things like the brakes and wheel bearings. I am doing all my own wrenching so the manual is going to be very important.

edit: forgot to answer some of your questions, 1. live 45 miles north of Amarillo, Tx so tempertures reach down to -5 in winter and up to 105 in the summer. 2. I don't have a good history of the bike as far as types of fluids yet but can probaly get that pretty easily as I got it from a friend at work and he is still around.

 

[sumran]

I am too new at this to know what a 2 inch drop will do but that seems like a lot of suspension travel to lose. Hopefully those with more knowledge and experience will be able to shed some light.

I have multiple manuals and find most of them disappointing. Good general information and useful pictures but I feel queasy most of the time I have it apart. I have heard that some of the information (torque values, etc.) is incorrect, so proceed with caution. There are some good websites available and back issues of Airmail have very good info. The combination of these resources and interaction with my local mechanic have gotten me through the early stages. if you find a high quality service manual, please let me know. I would love to have one myself.

I have hired some of the work out. I am fortunate to have a quality, experienced BMW mechanic nearby. I view it as tuition expense at Airhead U. I have spent enough money with the mechanic that I can ask do-it-yourself questions without feeling abusive. I buy the parts from him when I can (I shop online first) to keep the good karma going.

 

[CRUISIN]

dealer? mechanic?

I wish I had the luxury of being close to a professional wrench for some things but I don't. The nearest BMW dealer is 270 miles away; besides, I did all my own wrenching on the R75 back in the late 70s so all I have to do is buck up and do it. As for losing 2" of travel, that will only be in the rear custom shocks that will hopefully be of high enough quality with enough adjustments it won't be too much of a sacrifice. The front shocks will still have the same travel but just be slipped through the triple tree a couple inches. That does mean losing 2" inches of ground clearance though. But if it is a choice of toning down my riding style to accomodate the lowering effort or not being able to safely handle the bike at stops; I choose to keep riding at a more sedate pace and keeping myself, wife and grandkids safer when at stops.

 

[sumran]

It would be great if you could post a picture of the mods once you are done and give a report on how it affects the ride. My wife may decide she wants her own set of handlebars one day. If she does, lowering will be a necessity.

 

[CRUISIN]

happy to share

It would be great if you could post a picture of the mods once you are done and give a report on how it affects the ride. My wife may decide she wants her own set of handlebars one day. If she does, lowering will be a necessity.

I'd be happy to share the progress and results. If you are not dead set on an airhead, the R1200C is probably already low enough for you wife to ride. I easily handle mine with a 27" inseam and the low center of gravity make it a dream to handle even at low speeds. I am on my second one now (first one wass totaled in 2004) having a total of just over 100K on the two with about as many smiles from them. Also of note between the two Cs, I have never had a single significant problem of any kind.

BTW, I appreciate your dialog here, because it makes me ask myself the same questions and more. Hopefully I will make the right decisions along the way as those questins get answered.

cya

 

[CRUISIN]

the saga continues

seems like just as I get motivated something else crops up like family matters, grandkids, and of course riding the other ponies in the stable.

Actually I've been putting a bit of time here and there and have managed to alter the rear frame in a way that eliminates the tool kit and drops the frame down near the top of the battery. I then did some comparison of lines and determined that a Harley soft-tail seat pan would make a good starting point for building a seat that fits the elevation change from the rear fender down to the new rider's position. The seat is now about 90% done with the soft-tail pan cut and re-molded with a heat gun, foam cut and glued. Now just have to make a temporary cover of some type to test ride without damaging the foam.

Next up on the mod list is to fit it with some lower handle bars. I just placed an ad over on IBMWR about switching it to "Cafe" style bars to make for more natural position with the lowered frame & seat. I've never made handle bar changes before, so am eagerly listening for advice / education here. Have questions like: clip-ons or Euro clubman style or are there other choices to get them lower and more forward?

Oh, and for those curious about the seat height with the modified frame; I am probably going to be near 30" when all is said and done. That's a big factor for someone with a 27" inseam and I won't have to make any adjustments or changes to shocks or change the geometry in any way.

 

[CRUISIN]

nearing time for first test ride.

well as you can see from the pics, I have made some progress on altering the frame. Canned the tool kit and rebuilt the rear section of the frame to drop down just above the battery. Also had to eliminate part of the curves behind the fuel tank on the front portion of the frame. Have it all bolted back together now and planning on reassembling everything for a test ride before getting various parts painted and/or powder-coated. With the seat this low, I'll not likely alter the suspension at all now.

 

[CRUISIN]

and from the other side

just a look from the other side. the cover you see is a temporary made from black denim. I will, of course, have the cover professionally done once I have determined the foam and fit are just right.

 

[sumran]

Interesting approach. Thanks for the pictures. I would expect the frame is a bit stiffer as modified, due to the angle. How does the new seat position affect handlebar and footpeg positioning? Given your inseam and BMW geometry, you were probably on the edge with handlebar position before you moved the seat farther away from the bars. I guess some barbacks could help if they didn't raise the bars.

The curving seat along the lines of the fender reminds me of the old Harley choppers. A sissy bar may be needed to keep the passenger in place on those rocket starts. How you say "Born to be Wild" in German?

Hope you find a spot for the tool kit somewhere. It can be the difference between an inconvenience and a very bad situation. Looks like you might have some room behind the seat for a small bag or trunk. Just my 2 cents.

I'm looking forward to seeing the next update.

 

[CRUISIN]

can you say "Soft Tail"

Actually after studying the lines for a bit, I suspected that a Harley seat of some type might very well be a good starting point for building a seat for this bike. After trying one that was borrowing space in my shop, I decided that would indeed be the place to start. I purchased a Soft Tail seat over E-bay and proceeded to scrap the foam, cut and bend the pan until it fit my "new" frame. While the seat is very thin, the foam is of a quality of firmness and resilience that should make it suitable for the assignment this bike is going to get. It will be used primarily for commuting 64 miles round trip daily and short weekend rides of 200 to 300 miles.

I'm not certain about the frame stiffness as all I did was unbolt the rear section from the front, then cut away the parts that were right under the driver's seat. Next I had to cut away the rear upper curves of the frame from behind the tank in order to leave some room for a more lengthy driver's seat (otherwise the my boys would have been squeezed a bit tighter than I like) . I managed to reuse the horizontal parts of the rear frame as well as the original bolt points on the front frame by cutting away the lower half of the curve between the new straight piece and the curve then just folding it down and rewelding to the new piece. (see pic).

As for handle bar position, I have a set of R100S bars on the way that will put me forward and lower with my hands. I am hoping they will get me tucked in close to the fairing and tank. I have sat on the bike with my hands in the approximate position of the new bars for several minutes at a time and the comfort is surprising. Since I have the sort inseam, the footpeg position is not all that uncomfortable for me either.

The tool kit will be stowed in the Wixom bags I am having painted to match the red with silver pinstripes. It's also not likely that my SO or anyone else will be riding pillion on this bike but if it does happen, the rear seat is of the same thickness as the driver's seat and also surprisingly comfortable.