'98 R1100RT Sticky Throttle and Fuel Hose Quick Disconnects

[brando]

I’m in the process of a couple of fixes on my ’98 R1100RT; one of which is replacing original external fuel hoses. During the course of removing fuel hoses (and attempting to install quick disconnects, an idea I’ve now abandoned), I believe I did something to cause a sticky throttle. I had a nice, smooth function when I started; not so now.

There’s a good possibility I may have damaged the cable housing on the right side while I was struggling with fuel hose hose removal and futzing with the QDs. It seemed like the new hoses were putting a lot of pressure on the loop of throttle cable at the top of the butterfly housing. I didn’t leave them on long enough to apply zip ties to the hoses to relieve the pressure. I just wasn’t satisfied with the routing compared to the tidy original bent hoses I removed.

The butterfly mechanisms on right and left sides function freely but the throttle is hard to roll on and is slow to return after release. The end of the cable housing seems like it’s seated properly at the top of the butterfly unit housing.

What’s your diagnosis as to the cause of sticky throttle and what’s the recommended solution?

If the solution involves replacing the cables, I assume I’ll also need a throttle body synch. It probably makes sense to replace all the cables anyway as mileage is 66.3k.

If anyone has pics of quick disconnects installed on an 1100RT, please post. The old hoses had bends in them right where the quick disconnects would go and it just didn’t seem like I could place them without kinking the new hose or getting the new hoses too close to the right cylinder head and still out of the way of other parts. Pre-formed hoses from BMW are pricey ($65-$75 each).

Thanks all!

 

[bikerfish1100]

replace cables.

 

[jagarra]

I believe there is a new style cable for the throttle. There was a date cut off between them with a recommendation to replace. I changed them to new style on my 94 RS.

Another issue could be that the cable housing has jumped out of the cable adjuster on the right side injector, causing your binding, common problem when the tank is pulled.

 

[brando]

I believe there is a new style cable for the throttle. There was a date cut off between them with a recommendation to replace. I changed them to new style on my 94 RS.

Another issue could be that the cable housing has jumped out of the cable adjuster on the right side injector, causing your binding, common problem when the tank is pulled.

Thanks for the response. Looking at the parts fiche for my '98 I see a reference to the change in cables, effective July 1997. From what I've learned it appears that getting to the distribution box is a bit tricky. Think I'll leave it for my service folks when I have them do an an annual.

 

[K7GLE]

Another issue could be that the cable housing has jumped out of the cable adjuster on the right side injector, causing your binding, common problem when the tank is pulled.

Or during a throttle-body synch. "Common" may be an understatement...DAHIK

 

[jsouth]

Do you have a Throttlemeister? If so, is it 100% released?

 

[brando]

Do you have a Throttlemeister? If so, is it 100% released?

Yep; first thing I checked. Thanks.

 

[happy wanderer]

There is a metal tab on the throttle body cable pulleys that hold the end of the cable in. Depress this silver metal tab to release the cables from the pulley. Once off you should be able to slide the cable sheath up and down without much resistance at all. If there is resistance you have kinked up the cable and it's basically buggered and you need new ones.

Yeah it seems impossible to get the plastic cable box out from under the battery but there is a tiny plastic tab that holds it into the metal cage it sits in. Once you find it... presto, the box comes out. Yeah, it's fiddly but doable with a strong flashlight and a lot of patience. Be careful removing the cables and take photos of where they came out and where they go back in. Be very gentle when getting the box back in there so you don't kink the new ones.

This job is a lot easier on a GS than an RT but it can be done. If I can do it, you probably can too! If you're not comfortable doing it for sure get help from a pro.

This assumes you have checked the throttle cable itself and any other possible kink spots like the pulley as mentioned previously.

 

[brando]

There is a metal tab on the throttle body cable pulleys that hold the end of the cable in. Depress this silver metal tab to release the cables from the pulley. Once off you should be able to slide the cable sheath up and down without much resistance at all. If there is resistance you have kinked up the cable and it's basically buggered and you need new ones.

Yeah it seems impossible to get the plastic cable box out from under the battery but there is a tiny plastic tab that holds it into the metal cage it sits in. Once you find it... presto, the box comes out. Yeah, it's fiddly but doable with a strong flashlight and a lot of patience. Be careful removing the cables and take photos of where they came out and where they go back in. Be very gentle when getting the box back in there so you don't kink the new ones.

This job is a lot easier on a GS than an RT but it can be done. If I can do it, you probably can too! If you're not comfortable doing it for sure get help from a pro.

This assumes you have checked the throttle cable itself and any other possible kink spots like the pulley as mentioned previously.

Thanks all. Just back from a short test ride and everything seems to be OK. Throttle returns to "dead man position" as it should when released but I'll still have my tech check it out when I have the annual in the next few days. Cables look as they should - no kinks or binds. Maybe it was just an overactive imagination.

 

[happy wanderer]

Thanks all. Just back from a short test ride and everything seems to be OK. Throttle returns to "dead man position" as it should when released but I'll still have my tech check it out when I have the annual in the next few days. Cables look as they should - no kinks or binds. Maybe it was just an overactive imagination.

Good news! Both my 96 and 00 RTs had and have the lightest smoothest throttle I've ever felt on any of the many bikes I've owned. They should be really smooth with a light feel and return to idle position quickly and without any assistance at all. If not, kinks, cable routing or pulley interference is usually at fault. Never ever lube the cables. A tiny drop of lithium grease may be applied on the cable barrels where they engage top and bottom but that's it.