'94 RS Neutral Sensor acting up

[tibork]

One other condition with the 94 model year is that the sidestand must be up for the bike to start/run. Later years that changed allowing them to start and run as long as it was in neutral and some owners (myself included) rewired the early models to function that way.

Correct mcmx, however even with the side stand down you should still get the neutral light. Side stand only prevents from starting with a separate switch but not from getting the neutral light. How did you rewire it? I also liked that on my Yamaha, I could start it with the side stand down as long as it was in neutral.

So today I got home OK from the dog sitting, the light came on in the morning soon as I turned the ignition on, however on the way home at some of the red light I didn't get the neutral light even when standing for a couple of minutes - no problem, bike still ran. I got home, then a short while later had to run to a store, again light didn't come on right away but wasn't bad, however trying to leave from the store I had to sit, play with the shifter, rock the bike and wait two minutes again - bit annoying. Then tonight I ran another short test ride and again it was just fine. So I guess it's just how it feels at the time ..

I guess first priority is to get the clutch switch fixed and also pull the sensor and as some of you mentioned replace the seal.

Thank you for all the comments and suggestions!

 

[gsaddict]

Starting with sidestand down.
some wiring mod info
Compare to RS wiring diagram

https://ibmwr.org/index.php/2001/12/08/enable-r1100rt-starting-with-the-sidestand-down-1/
https://ibmwr.org/index.php/2005/04/09/enable-r1100rt-starting-with-the-sidestand-down/

 

[tibork]

Starting with sidestand down.
some wiring mod info
Compare to RS wiring diagram

Thanks GSAddict, this looks like something I'll definitely want to do, this is something I never understood why BMW didn't implement. I always missed this from my old 600 cc Yamaha.

 

[tibork]

Anyone know a place where I can get a new replacement clutch safety switch? EBay has a couple but all used, don't want to take the chances that they quit working in a couple of years anyway. All other parts sites don't have any for the '94 1100RS.

In the mean time I did a quick solution, cut the dead switch off and put a manual override switch on, tested, works. If I don't get the neutral light after a few seconds, flip this switch on, start bike, flip switch off and off I go. At least no more waiting for minutes in parking lots or anywhere ...

 

[Omega Man]

Is this it? https://bmwparts.crosscountrycycle.net/p/bmw__R1100RT/Switch/42766361/61311459569.html

OM

 

[tibork]

That looks like it OmegaMan but ... $107? :O They sure want a pretty penny for it. My toggle switch was $6.50 ...

 

[tibork]

Also just see on the site it says for 95-01. Would it work on the '94? Sure looks the same. I tried searching for '94 RS but again these guys don't have that exact year.

 

[20774]

Ted's BMW Shop has a replacement part for $30 part #61311459569:

https://www.beemershop.com/product/ei-brakeclutch-light-switch.html

 

[Omega Man]

That looks like it OmegaMan but ... $107? :O They sure want a pretty penny for it. My toggle switch was $6.50 ...

At Least it's a starting point. Show your almost 30 year old bike some love

At least if you are going to stay with a switch of your own making, get a marine rated switch so corrosion doesn't have you twisting wires again.

Pollak or Blue Sea are good choices.

OM

 

[52184]

Switch 61312306060 supersedes switch 61312306212 which was original on the R1100RS bikes. A lot of the early SS switches failed and the updated unit was supposed to be more reliable. I went through a couple of the early switches on my ‘95 RSL

Best,
DeVern

 

[tibork]

Switch 61312306060 supersedes switch 61312306212 which was original on the R1100RS bikes. A lot of the early SS switches failed and the updated unit was supposed to be more reliable. I went through a couple of the early switches on my ‘95 RSL

In other words just keep the $6.50 toggle switch but find a rain proof location for it. Maybe the smartest way to go. .. Or get a weather proof push-release button switch that you push/hold while starting the bike ... hmmm.

 

[52184]

In other words just keep the $6.50 toggle switch but find a rain proof location for it. Maybe the smartest way to go. .. Or get a weather proof push-release button switch that you push/hold while starting the bike ... hmmm.

Personally, I always thought that switch should have been a magnetic one and was going to check marine suppliers and such to see what was available. But, I sold the bike before I got around to researching that.

Best,
DeVern

 

[tibork]

Personally, I always thought that switch should have been a magnetic one and was going to check marine suppliers and such to see what was available. But, I sold the bike before I got around to researching that.

That is a great idea!

 

[cam_on_van_isle]

I have a 1998 R1100R and since I bought it it never started in gear with the clutch in, and my neutral light is starting to get sporadic.
I lucked out and sprayed the clutch switch with electronic contact cleaner and it now works, every time.

 

[pglaves]

Get the $30 switch. That is my advice! YMMV

 

[ksdcr]

I have a 1998 R1100R and since I bought it it never started in gear with the clutch in, and my neutral light is starting to get sporadic.
I lucked out and sprayed the clutch switch with electronic contact cleaner and it now works, every time.

Would you clarify which switch, and location of said switch?
Was it the side stand switch, or the actual neutral switch?

 

[tibork]

Get the $30 switch. That is my advice! YMMV

I did Paul, on order, until it arrives my $6.50 toggle is doing the job well.

 

[tibork]

I have a 1998 R1100R and since I bought it it never started in gear with the clutch in, and my neutral light is starting to get sporadic.
I lucked out and sprayed the clutch switch with electronic contact cleaner and it now works, every time.

Yes, from my research also showed that most of the problems are caused by dirt/grease depositing on the contacts and cleaning will get it going again, however there is one problem: inside the switch there is also contact grease which will be dissolved with the contact cleaner and dirt will get in even faster and oxidization can start too. On some bikes (ex. Kawasaki) this switch can be taken apart, cleaned and contact grease reapplied but on our bikes the switch is sealed. So yes, spraying can be a solution but shortens the life and function of the switch. I just opted for getting a new one for $30.