'90 K75s - bad engine output shaft seal?

[Omega Man]

Thanks for the recent feedback. Have been a little short on time recently but did remove the transmission again. It is an aftermarket clutch cable from Beemer Boneyard- when disconnected from the transmission the cable slides easily enough in the sleeve/sheath. I think I had the freeplay at the handlebar ok. Pilot tool moved freely when trans removed. Pilot bushing and splines look good though I should probably take pics. Pushrod is straight as far as I can determine and moves freely through the trans when trans is removed and also through eng output shaft pilot bushing. The clutch felt like the “diaphragm” spring is too stiff but I studied that part and can’t see anything wrong with it. The circumference of that spring goes on top of the metal O-ring that fits in the clutch housing (flywheel) I believe. I was going to reinstall the trans using a helper this time. More to come.

Good for you, and others tackling a repair like this. I could probably get through it…..but…..wouldn’t be happy about it.
OM

 

[98lee]

When installing the trans, use 4 guide pins, level the bike (put level on valve cover, support trans with a floor jack and roll it straight in, keeping face of trans parallel to back of engine. SHOULD slide smoothly in all the way to the dowel pins that surround two of the bolt holes. Adjust height to align dowels, and push the rest of the way in. No mallets.

 

[AntonLargiader]

Take a few pics and post them. I vaguely recall having experienced something like this and I'm going to try to remember what that was about.

When you squeeze the too-hard lever, does the clutch actually disengage?
When you installed the six cover bolts, roughly how much of the threading went in easily and how much was compressing the spring?
With the transmission and cable installed, how many threads are showing on the adjuster bolt in the clutch arm?
Are these all the same parts you took out?

 

[mohler]

Is it possible that the friction disc is mounted backwards, so that the protruding center is compressing the diaphragm spring when the clutch housing is tightened down. ( I don't know if it is possible to do) Flat side should be towards the spring, protruding side towards the transmission. This was my first thought when you said that you bumped the friction disc out of place while installing the transmission.
I've done this job about 10 times and have never had the disc move out of place, and never had to tap the transmission to get it to meet up with the intermediate housing.

 

[AntonLargiader]

OK, my helper just reminded me what the issue was and this very well could be yours as you have changed the cable.

You need to make sure that the cable end at the lever is swinging freely in the lever slot. Some cables were made with crimps that were too big to properly fit. There should be no bending at all in the cable itself; the barrel in the lever should turn to allow a straight pull to be maintained throughout the stroke. If the cable (or cable crimp) binds in the slot, you will severely flex the cable with each actuation and it will break. Also, the effective lever distance is larger so the effort will be greater (and the feel will be less smooth).