Good for you, and others tackling a repair like this. I could probably get through it…..but…..wouldn’t be happy about it.
OM
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'90 K75s - bad engine output shaft seal?
- Thread starter jrx222
- Start date
OM
When installing the trans, use 4 guide pins, level the bike (put level on valve cover, support trans with a floor jack and roll it straight in, keeping face of trans parallel to back of engine. SHOULD slide smoothly in all the way to the dowel pins that surround two of the bolt holes. Adjust height to align dowels, and push the rest of the way in. No mallets.
AntonLargiader
Well-known member
Take a few pics and post them. I vaguely recall having experienced something like this and I'm going to try to remember what that was about.
When you squeeze the too-hard lever, does the clutch actually disengage?
When you installed the six cover bolts, roughly how much of the threading went in easily and how much was compressing the spring?
With the transmission and cable installed, how many threads are showing on the adjuster bolt in the clutch arm?
Are these all the same parts you took out?
When you squeeze the too-hard lever, does the clutch actually disengage?
When you installed the six cover bolts, roughly how much of the threading went in easily and how much was compressing the spring?
With the transmission and cable installed, how many threads are showing on the adjuster bolt in the clutch arm?
Are these all the same parts you took out?
Is it possible that the friction disc is mounted backwards, so that the protruding center is compressing the diaphragm spring when the clutch housing is tightened down. ( I don't know if it is possible to do) Flat side should be towards the spring, protruding side towards the transmission. This was my first thought when you said that you bumped the friction disc out of place while installing the transmission.
I've done this job about 10 times and have never had the disc move out of place, and never had to tap the transmission to get it to meet up with the intermediate housing.
I've done this job about 10 times and have never had the disc move out of place, and never had to tap the transmission to get it to meet up with the intermediate housing.
AntonLargiader
Well-known member
OK, my helper just reminded me what the issue was and this very well could be yours as you have changed the cable.
You need to make sure that the cable end at the lever is swinging freely in the lever slot. Some cables were made with crimps that were too big to properly fit. There should be no bending at all in the cable itself; the barrel in the lever should turn to allow a straight pull to be maintained throughout the stroke. If the cable (or cable crimp) binds in the slot, you will severely flex the cable with each actuation and it will break. Also, the effective lever distance is larger so the effort will be greater (and the feel will be less smooth).
You need to make sure that the cable end at the lever is swinging freely in the lever slot. Some cables were made with crimps that were too big to properly fit. There should be no bending at all in the cable itself; the barrel in the lever should turn to allow a straight pull to be maintained throughout the stroke. If the cable (or cable crimp) binds in the slot, you will severely flex the cable with each actuation and it will break. Also, the effective lever distance is larger so the effort will be greater (and the feel will be less smooth).
Stuff came up; hence the lapse in this response! Thanks all for the advice and ideas - the bike is back on the road. After inspecting things best I could I reinstalled the transmission w/a helper. Used 3 guide pins; once again needed to use a rubber mallet for the last 1/4 inch. I figured maybe the 2 dowel pins caused extra friction? After adjusting cable was still as stiff as before. Then hooked up old cable (not yet routed through bike) and things were noticeably less stiff. Using a crude method - belt tension gauge - the old cable required about 30% less force. So I reinstalled the old cable, being careful about the routing. Apologies for lack of pictures here.
- Am certain friction disc is not reversed
- Unfortunately I installed things prior to seeing the most recent posts, but as I recall I had to thread in the 6 clutch bolts almost all the way before the friction disc was clamped securely
- Adjusted cable & sidestand release mechanism per spec. Lubed barrels
- Clutch disengages @ about 1/3 way to full “squeeze”
- Clutch bolt adjustment at trans. - just a few (3 maybe) threads away from fully backed out but I believe that’s the way it was before
After buttoning things up and a quick test ride I rode it for 50 miles. After sitting for a couple of weeks I saw no leaks (the original reason for the thread) so yay. I still think the clutch is kinda stiff but maybe I forgot how it was before this whole escapade started. I know it takes significantly more force than my R1100RT and somewhat more than my K1600. Guess I need to try another K75…
- Am certain friction disc is not reversed
- Unfortunately I installed things prior to seeing the most recent posts, but as I recall I had to thread in the 6 clutch bolts almost all the way before the friction disc was clamped securely
- Adjusted cable & sidestand release mechanism per spec. Lubed barrels
- Clutch disengages @ about 1/3 way to full “squeeze”
- Clutch bolt adjustment at trans. - just a few (3 maybe) threads away from fully backed out but I believe that’s the way it was before
After buttoning things up and a quick test ride I rode it for 50 miles. After sitting for a couple of weeks I saw no leaks (the original reason for the thread) so yay. I still think the clutch is kinda stiff but maybe I forgot how it was before this whole escapade started. I know it takes significantly more force than my R1100RT and somewhat more than my K1600. Guess I need to try another K75…
