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"84 G/S newly aguired and freshen up time
- Thread starter 04r1150rs
- Start date
04r1150rs
ONE LESS HARLEY
Since the driving lights glare from the top a visor was made out of sheet metal and added to the top, sure is better than electrical tape, also tried painting the top w/ black paint but the light shinned through.
Also I couldn't resist adding my personal plate frame to the bike.
Also I couldn't resist adding my personal plate frame to the bike.
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04r1150rs
ONE LESS HARLEY
Update on the G/S project-
1) I've installed fork seals, Gold Valve emulators, had to shorten the springs about 1 inch, still waiting for the AL washers for the drain plugs, before the forks go back on. Race Tech recommended 15w oil.
2) removed the air injection tubing, used R1150RS oil drain plugs and red lock tight to plug the holes. The pulled the valves out of the airbox and used the TDC inspection plug to fill the holes in the air box along w/ a little weather strip addheasive, still need to plug the hole at the front of the air box and some rubber plugs at each carb.
3) removed the timing cover to inspect timing gears, they LOOKED REAL GOOD, for 95,000 miles, just replaced the timing tensioners.
4) took the timing cover to be powder coated.
5) Returned the speedo to Palo Alto to recalibrate as the calibration for the 120 mph face was off by 5 mph.
1) I've installed fork seals, Gold Valve emulators, had to shorten the springs about 1 inch, still waiting for the AL washers for the drain plugs, before the forks go back on. Race Tech recommended 15w oil.
2) removed the air injection tubing, used R1150RS oil drain plugs and red lock tight to plug the holes. The pulled the valves out of the airbox and used the TDC inspection plug to fill the holes in the air box along w/ a little weather strip addheasive, still need to plug the hole at the front of the air box and some rubber plugs at each carb.
3) removed the timing cover to inspect timing gears, they LOOKED REAL GOOD, for 95,000 miles, just replaced the timing tensioners.
4) took the timing cover to be powder coated.
5) Returned the speedo to Palo Alto to recalibrate as the calibration for the 120 mph face was off by 5 mph.
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S
sumran
Guest
Update on the G/S project-
1) I've installed fork seals, Gold Valve emulators, had to shorten the springs about 1 inch, still waiting for the AL washers for the drain plugs, before the forks go back on. Race Tech recommended 15w oil.
2) removed the air injection tubing, used R1150RS oil drain plugs and red lock tight to plug the holes. The pulled the valves out of the airbox and used the TDC inspection plug to fill the holes in the air box along w/ a little weather strip addheasive, still need to plug the hole at the front of the air box and some rubber plugs at each carb.
3) removed the timing cover to inspect timing gears, they LOOKED REAL GOOD, for 95,000 miles, just replaced the timing tensioners.
4) took the timing cover to be powder coated.
5) Returned the speedo to Palo Alto to recalibrate as the calibration for the 120 mph face was off by 5 mph.
Bike looks super and you are clearly taking great care in getting things right.
Did you replace the timing chain? If it has never been done and you have 95,000 miles, I would do it while you are in there.
I would advise against the rubber plugs on the carb vacuum ports. They vanish quietly. A screw with a fiber washer and a touch of blue loctite is a better solution. I used a 6/32" stainless from Home Depot. It was readily available and I had a tap to thread the inside surface of the port. A metric version would be more proper.
THe racetech recomendation of 15wt oil is for street bikes... if you are looking for more plush, and dirt worthy performance go lighter... I have 10wt in mine now and will be changing for 7.5 this winter....
Also, the starting point of 2 turns or pre-load is a bit firm for my tastes and I am currently running 1.25 turns... that might have to change when I go with lighter oil and cut my springs a bit...
Also, the starting point of 2 turns or pre-load is a bit firm for my tastes and I am currently running 1.25 turns... that might have to change when I go with lighter oil and cut my springs a bit...
S
sumran
Guest
I am sure there are different ideas out there. I would expect to change the chain every 75k and the crank gear at the second timing chain change. I would not change it at that mileage unless I had it apart or it was getting noisey. The cam gear may last longer, since it has less wear. The gears can be visually inspected to determine the need to change them. If there is wear in the valley it will cause slop between the roller and the gear. If the fit is firm, don't change it.
Most of the wear in the chain is between the links, not the rollers that contact the gears. If you extend a worn chain in a straight line sideways, it will droop significantly. A new chain will stay almost horizontal.
Again, nice job on the the bike.
04r1150rs
ONE LESS HARLEY
Update on what I've done since my last post.
- the powder coated timing cover is on. Just had some trouble w/ the charging system as I forgot where the blue wire on the back of the diode board went.
-powder coated the alt cover
- new top fork brace anodized Al, very nice piece from Custom top braces, (http://www.pbase.com/toastertan/top_braces) about $228 USD.
Pictures coming soon!!
To do list
- purchased but not installed a enduralast Alt, ended up deciding on this kit as it does away w/ the stock rotor w/ windings and charges at a higher rate at lower rpms than the Motorrad Elektrick, it was a real tossup between the two, but the enduralast is about $100 cheaper.
- fix weeping pushrod seals
- the powder coated timing cover is on. Just had some trouble w/ the charging system as I forgot where the blue wire on the back of the diode board went.
-powder coated the alt cover
- new top fork brace anodized Al, very nice piece from Custom top braces, (http://www.pbase.com/toastertan/top_braces) about $228 USD.
Pictures coming soon!!
To do list
- purchased but not installed a enduralast Alt, ended up deciding on this kit as it does away w/ the stock rotor w/ windings and charges at a higher rate at lower rpms than the Motorrad Elektrick, it was a real tossup between the two, but the enduralast is about $100 cheaper.
- fix weeping pushrod seals
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lineman126
New member
I just did mine the other day and it was a pretty straight forward job.
It's great when you can fix your own bike in a few hours and
when your done.
04r1150rs
ONE LESS HARLEY
Ok here's the pictures so far.
Two shots of the fork Brace, a well made part. Only thing I that instead of cutting the existing turn signal stalks I made my own. They are mounted next to the brace, figured this would be better as the originals stick out a bit...good for ripping off.
My rebuilt and refaced 120 mph speedo care of Palo Alto Speedo, unfortunately the first time it was returned to me the calibration was off. Sure did a lot better job than the idiots at North Hollywood Speedo. Oh sure it won't see 120, but it could see 80mph!!
Also pulled the exhaust to remove one of the cylinders to do the pushrod seals, figured I'd remove the complete assembly and replace the o-rings at the crankcase, crap found out that I forgot to order the large o-ring for the cylinder!!! I had the 2 small o-rings, but not the big one. It makes no since to me not to replace the o-rings since the jug is almost off anyway. Besides if I didn't replace them they would probably leak.
No play in the rod bearings...I like this 95,000 mile motor. No surprises.
Check out the powder coated starter, timing and alternator covers.
Two shots of the fork Brace, a well made part. Only thing I that instead of cutting the existing turn signal stalks I made my own. They are mounted next to the brace, figured this would be better as the originals stick out a bit...good for ripping off.
My rebuilt and refaced 120 mph speedo care of Palo Alto Speedo, unfortunately the first time it was returned to me the calibration was off. Sure did a lot better job than the idiots at North Hollywood Speedo. Oh sure it won't see 120, but it could see 80mph!!
Also pulled the exhaust to remove one of the cylinders to do the pushrod seals, figured I'd remove the complete assembly and replace the o-rings at the crankcase, crap found out that I forgot to order the large o-ring for the cylinder!!! I had the 2 small o-rings, but not the big one. It makes no since to me not to replace the o-rings since the jug is almost off anyway. Besides if I didn't replace them they would probably leak.
No play in the rod bearings...I like this 95,000 mile motor. No surprises.
Check out the powder coated starter, timing and alternator covers.
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04r1150rs
ONE LESS HARLEY
The pushrod seals were easy to do I did the right side tonite, still have to replace the exhaust system, but so far everything went well. Hopefully this weekend she'll be fired up, the timing will need to be adjusted before riding and I may go ahead and put in the enduralast alt. A bracket for the regulator has been welded on behind the left side cover so the hard part is done.
Need to get the bike finished before the day after Thanksgiving as I'm planning a ride, well if things don't work out there is the RRS.
Stone guard up date- I'm getting some 3/4" wide flat stock rolled, in 8" diameter (headlight) and two 6.5" diameter for the driving lights. Then I'll use some wire mesh spot welded on the front of the circles, then have to make the brackets.
Need to get the bike finished before the day after Thanksgiving as I'm planning a ride, well if things don't work out there is the RRS.
Stone guard up date- I'm getting some 3/4" wide flat stock rolled, in 8" diameter (headlight) and two 6.5" diameter for the driving lights. Then I'll use some wire mesh spot welded on the front of the circles, then have to make the brackets.
04r1150rs
ONE LESS HARLEY
Had to pull the cylinders off this weekend, had a leak, put a light coat of RTV on cylinders, not leaking now. Replaced tthe tranny shift link seal.
The installed the Enduralast alternator. It went easy but took a little while to make things neat.
Welded on the lower bracket for the rectifier.
The alt does make a slight whining like I've heard others mention.
The installed the Enduralast alternator. It went easy but took a little while to make things neat.
Welded on the lower bracket for the rectifier.
Enduralast Installed
The alt does make a slight whining like I've heard others mention.
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F
FABIOX
Guest
Nice Bike !
How much did you pay for that baby.....
How much did you pay for that baby.....
beemerguru
Member
If you'v got it down that far..seems a shame not to take the next logical step and pull the rods and take them along with the pistons and wrist pins to a good speed shop and have them balance everything.
I've seen as much as 4 grm difference from the factory. Makes a big difference in smoothness and power curve.
I've seen as much as 4 grm difference from the factory. Makes a big difference in smoothness and power curve.
04r1150rs
ONE LESS HARLEY
So far I've put about $1,500 extra in parts, front brakes, fork seals, gators, pushrod seals, tranny shifter seal, Race tech fork emulators, purchased timing gears but not used, timing chain tensioner, ceramic and powder coat of rear frame section, exhaust, starter and timing cover, Eduralast Alternator, carb needles (not installed ), carb diaphram, throttle cables, front wheel bearings (not installed), panasonic battery, speedo rebuild and maybe a few other things. Needs tires now.
Came with, BMW saddle bags, extra stainless muffler (BMW), extra larger tank, windshield.
If you must know it was purchased for $3,500.
Came with, BMW saddle bags, extra stainless muffler (BMW), extra larger tank, windshield.
If you must know it was purchased for $3,500.
