•  

    Welcome! You are currently logged out of the forum. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please LOG IN!

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the benefits of membership? If you click here, you have the opportunity to take us for a test ride at our expense. Enter the code 'FORUM25' in the activation code box to try the first year of the MOA on us!

     

2024 GSA 1250 Configuring Bike to Fit Tall Rider

4sparks

New member
Hi all, I'm new to the forum and new to BMW and the GSA. I am a tall woman (5' 11.5") and a I have a 35 inch inseam. The bike is a 2024 1250 GS Adventure Trophy. I have the seat in the high position, and I have BMW risers installed. I am now just starting to put break-in mileage on the bike.

I have spent years riding Harley Davidson heavy touring bikes, so I am accustomed to having my feet on the floorboards, slightly in front of me, with foot controls at the ready.

On the new BMW, I am having a difficult time smoothly accessing the rear brake, especially when I have to quickly move my boot to the rear brake pedal during stop and go traffic. I am guessing this occurs because I have longer legs than the average rider, and thus the angle of my legs is much tighter (more bent). It feels as if the toe of my boot has to point towards the sky to pivot to the brake pedal from the foot peg, OR I have to completely lift my leg, "stab" into space to find the brake pedal, and then try to gently press the pedal. First of all, this can be quite the workout on the thigh muscles, and second, it is terrifying as I lose seconds getting the boot and ankle at the right angle to the pedal (I wear Alpine Stars Toucans and "boy-howdy" are they stiff!).

I have searched the forums far and wide for a solution, but It seems most people are looking for ways to RAISE the rear brake pedal as opposed to lowering it, which is what I think I need to do. Plus, from what I have read, there is no adjustability to the rear brake on the GSA. Only the shift lever can be adjusted.

I see that Black Dog has foot pegs that are wider, and 1/2" back from the controls. Would these footpegs be of help in my situation? Also, Wunderlich has a Rear Brake Lowering Kit: PN# 13511002. Has anyone used this kit? Would the kit help? Should I combine the two?

I am eager for a solution as I absolutely love, love riding this bike. I wish I had bought it sooner. ~ 4Sparks
 
Except for very slow tight turns or U turns I don't use the rear brake lever.
I usually cover the front brake lever with 2 finger so I'm ready a quick stop.
The front lever will apply the front and rear brake.
Welcome to the forum.
 
Hi,
Not sure an a GS but on my RT there is a little bit of adjustment on the rod between the pedal and the master cylinder. If so on the GS you can get some up and down adjustment on the brake pedal.
 
Your BMW also has linked brakes, so in most situations (especially emergency stops) you should be relying more on the hand lever. The GSA is designed for "adventure" and offroading, where the riders are more likely to be "stomping" on the brake, hense it's height and people trying to adjust it up higher.

Please don't take this the wrong way - but if you are coming from big H-D cruisers and are accustomed to using the rear as the primary brake, now would be a good time to learn to trust the front brake, as it really does do a much better job.
 
Welcome! Afraid I haven’t used the solutions you are looking at so can’t comment there. My inseam is similar to yours and a similar bike. I normally have my foot positioned just outside of the brake pedal almost touching it. When I need to apply rear brake my foot just moves inward and as I feel the brake I ride up over it. The bike has linked brakes as noted but I still use a combination of front+rear in many cases from habit that I maintain for the times I ride a machine that isn’t linked.
 
Only time I use the rear brake on all the beemer models I've owned that have linked brakes is just before coming to a stop. Start applying the rear brake and let up on the front lever. I find that keeps the motor from lurching to a stop.

Only other time I've used it is in police motor slow cone courses in their emergency braking exercises. Then both are applied hard which will stop the bike in a shorter distance.
 
Thank you all for the replies. My last two (Ultra Limiteds) were linked, and I often only used the rear for very slow speeds and parking lot type maneuvers. That, along with feathering the clutch, seemed to work well for me in terms of fine control. The Harley brakes, while linked, did a great job modulating or lessening pressure on the front wheel at low speeds. I'm guessing BMW is different?

Once again, I am grateful for all of your helpful suggestions. I have much to work on and practice, especially getting used to using two fingers on the controls. With the Harley, the clutch and brake levers were not adjustable and I had to use all 4 fingers to squeeze the clutch lever. It was quite the forearm workout riding in heavy traffic. But the BMW levers? Like "buttah."
 
Street riding only, or do you see some adventure riding in your future? If the latter, then lowered footpegs in combination with bar risers can make standing riding much more comfortable for a tall person. The Wunderlich brake pedal lowering kit fits your bike, and they also sell a nice adjustable brake pedal that adjusts for length and some height adjustment. Sometimes, what one perceives as an issue with shift or brake pedal height is actually an issue with pedal length and preferred foot position. As a reference, at 6’-2” and 34” inseam I have on my GS the tallest risers I could find, lowered pegs, and longer shift and brake levers for my size 13s. But, those pedals are mounted at the stock height.

Best,
DeVern
 
GTRider, you may be on to something. I will definately check out the extended shift and brake pedals from Wunderlich.

Currently, I am riding mostly street but I am so drawn to the adventure side. I really want to learn to ride on Back Country Trails (BDR). I have watched many a video on youtube of talented guys and gals on the trails. I so want learn to do that. The closest I came to trail riding on the Limited was down in florida, where the dirt road I was on suddenly turned into deep sugar sand. The front wheel twisted, buried, and poof, down I went.

GTRider, on the lowered pegs, what is the angle of your foot when you transition to the brake? By lowering the pegs does it make the angle of the foot tighter or steeper in relation to the pedal? Will the your toe of your boot have to point even higher? The boots I have (Toucans) are so darn stiff. Hopefully they will relax the more I wear them. I am going to try putting my boot next to the lever as Talmadge_W suggested. It would certainly seem to make it easier to find the pedal as opposed to lifting the leg and "stabbing" in air.

I have to say, I am heartened from all the great responses from everyone on this forum. I live in New England where the predominate bike on the road is either Harley or Indian. And, as I do not know anyone here who rides a BMW, there are no brains here I can pick.
 
I don’t notice any unusual angle from the lowered pegs, but like Talmadge_W I usually have my foot alongside the brake pedal, not on top- until it’s needed. I’d suggest getting some break-in on the boots before making major changes on the bike—I wore my new adv boots for yard work for a week or two just to get them broken in. Once the boots aren’t limiting ankle flexión you’ll have a better idea of what adjustments will work best for you.

Best,
DeVern
 
Back
Top