And second...and third
Nice looking regardless and another option for folks for that market
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2016 Africa Twin
- Thread starter racer7
- Start date
And second...and third
Nice looking regardless and another option for folks for that market
roamingbeemer
roamingbeemer
I had to do a double take on the description "economy bikes" when referencing the F800GS.
Its easy to understand what "economy bike" means when talking about the F twins.
Its a (somewhat illogical) Taiwanese variant of a typical J brand vertical twin and built nearly identically - except it gets BMWs ABS, stainless brake lines, and ECU.
So its basically a slightly upscaled J brand machine but with a $4K higher price tag.
F twins have nothing like the build quality of an R or even a K bike but the price is way up there for the displacement category.
F twins need to become modern triples- cheap yammies and T bikes have better motors
Its a (somewhat illogical) Taiwanese variant of a typical J brand vertical twin and built nearly identically - except it gets BMWs ABS, stainless brake lines, and ECU.
So its basically a slightly upscaled J brand machine but with a $4K higher price tag.
F twins have nothing like the build quality of an R or even a K bike but the price is way up there for the displacement category.
F twins need to become modern triples- cheap yammies and T bikes have better motors
jconway607
JohnWC
Is that true? I thought the BMW twins used Rotax engines, which I have heard are pretty good. And I figured the BMW scooter line used the same twin engines. They seem to have gotten pretty good reviews so far, although they too are pricey, as is BMW's want. Just curious, what is a "T bike"?
biketrax
New member
A little help on comprable bikes??
Could anybody please list or mention all comparable bikes in that are in mid size/weight "TWINS" that should be considered in the same ballpark as the African twin??? Please
Just trying to educate myself a bit. I am fore sure going to give AT a good test drive. But I would like to test others that may compare
IE: V-Strom 650 etc.
Thank you
Currently riding a 95 R100GS and 95 R1100RS
Could anybody please list or mention all comparable bikes in that are in mid size/weight "TWINS" that should be considered in the same ballpark as the African twin??? Please
Just trying to educate myself a bit. I am fore sure going to give AT a good test drive. But I would like to test others that may compare
IE: V-Strom 650 etc.
Thank you
Currently riding a 95 R100GS and 95 R1100RS
jconway607
JohnWC
Nice picture. Those black airheads always look good. Just ready to go anywhere.
915e
Member
AT vs. GS
From what I see in the pictures and read about the AT....I like it. Before I bought my used 08 GS I did look briefly at a Honda NC700x, obviously no match for a 1200 GS due to engine size, what I did like were the ergonomics/seating position because I am 6'2" and everything did fit perfect (same goes for the V-Strom 1000).
Anyway, I choose the BMW and made it "fit" me with handlebar risers, Sargent seats, larger foot pegs, and a larger brake pedal. I also just ordered a taller Puig windshield. For the money I spent I could have bought a new V-Strom 1000. I had many motorcycles over the past 40 years and have to say that the BMW is the best handling bike I ever owned and what really surprised me was how stable the BMW is at highway speeds behind and while passing big over the road trucks.
Like they say, you get what you pay for and there is a difference when you buy a premium brand....it is in the details. I bought a used BMW because I wanted to try the brand; I think there will be a new GS for me sometime in the not so distant future. I haven't driven one yet but I am sure it is even more refined with fly-by-wire throttle control, liquid cooling, and cruise control.
From what I see in the pictures and read about the AT....I like it. Before I bought my used 08 GS I did look briefly at a Honda NC700x, obviously no match for a 1200 GS due to engine size, what I did like were the ergonomics/seating position because I am 6'2" and everything did fit perfect (same goes for the V-Strom 1000).
Anyway, I choose the BMW and made it "fit" me with handlebar risers, Sargent seats, larger foot pegs, and a larger brake pedal. I also just ordered a taller Puig windshield. For the money I spent I could have bought a new V-Strom 1000. I had many motorcycles over the past 40 years and have to say that the BMW is the best handling bike I ever owned and what really surprised me was how stable the BMW is at highway speeds behind and while passing big over the road trucks.
Like they say, you get what you pay for and there is a difference when you buy a premium brand....it is in the details. I bought a used BMW because I wanted to try the brand; I think there will be a new GS for me sometime in the not so distant future. I haven't driven one yet but I am sure it is even more refined with fly-by-wire throttle control, liquid cooling, and cruise control.
visian
look out!!!
My bike is a 2006 and had 30k miles on it when the rear drive bearing was starting to indicate imminent failure.
I'm going to take half a ding on this because I only changed the rear drive oil at recommended intervals and do ride through quite a few water crossings where the drive could possible get submerged and suck in water. My dealer advised me that can lead to issues that cause bearings to wear prematurely...
Now that the rear drive (ahem) actually has a drain hole, I will change the oil at least every oil change, and probably change after rides that include any water crossings where the drive could be submerged. I am also gonna have the old drive rebuilt and put it on the shelf with the, uh, spare drive I have for my 1150 GS. I actually do have a spare drive for my R80G/SPD+, but that one failed in a different way, for a different reason.
There is a whole lot to be said for a drive shaft compared to a chain, especially when the bike with the shaft weighs 60-75 pounds less than the Honda Africa Twin we are talking about.
Ian
roamingbeemer
roamingbeemer
My bike is a 2006 and had 30k miles on it when the rear drive bearing was starting to indicate imminent failure.
I'm going to take half a ding on this because I only changed the rear drive oil at recommended intervals and do ride through quite a few water crossings where the drive could possible get submerged and suck in water. My dealer advised me that can lead to issues that cause bearings to wear prematurely...
Now that the rear drive (ahem) actually has a drain hole, I will change the oil at least every oil change, and probably change after rides that include any water crossings where the drive could be submerged. I am also gonna have the old drive rebuilt and put it on the shelf with the, uh, spare drive I have for my 1150 GS. I actually do have a spare drive for my R80G/SPD+, but that one failed in a different way, for a different reason.
There is a whole lot to be said for a drive shaft compared to a chain, especially when the bike with the shaft weighs 60-75 pounds less than the Honda Africa Twin we are talking about.
Ian
Do I understand you put a drain hole in the rear drive below the aft U joint? After a few water crossings this past summer I dropped the FD and I had some liquid on the bottom of the drive casing. The clips on the rubber seal were properly in place but I believe some water got past. I drop the FD once a year on both of my bikes to lube the splines and check for corrosion. A little anti corrosion spray is also used.
I remember seeing pictures of a completely rusted U joint so I am trying to avoid that situation.
I also made sure the caliper pins were cleaned and lubed after the water crossings to make sure the rear caliper releases properly.
The DCT looks interesting and I am not opposed to it after riding the Honda PCX many times and really enjoying it.
visian
look out!!!
The original drive was one of those "lifetime fill" deals... yeah, right. To drain it you needed to drop the drive and open the drain hole that is located at the 9 o'clock position as you look at the drive from the right side of the bike. To refill it you have to remove the speedo pickup and inject the lube using a bottle that hair dressers use to apply hair color. I typically also put a light coating of the Honda stuff.
The replacement drive has a drain at the bottom (6 o'clock).
I have to profess ignorance, but I've read that there is a breather that's been incorporated in later designs, and if so, this is where water could get in. The thread I linked shows how some people have used tubing to raise the intake of this vent to prevent water ingress.
Me? I am going to change my rear drive lube far more regularly.
This is one of my reasons for being so interested in this bike. My clutch hand is starting to feel the pain of 50 years of feathering... I am interested to see if DCT is effective in moderately gnarly going.
What I'd really rather have is a 2wd GS with hydrostatic power to the front wheel that one could engage with a handlebar control.
Ian
Bud
It is what it is.
What I'd really rather have is a 2wd GS with hydrostatic power to the front wheel that one could engage with a handlebar control.
Ian
Engage Warp Drive Scotty!!!!
What I'd really rather have is a 2wd GS with hydrostatic power to the front wheel that one could engage with a handlebar control.
Ian
Almost there-
Actually they look like they have a good system.
http://www.christini.com
OM
visian
look out!!!
this is a mechanical system that's far too complex and heavy, plus it's full time. Longevity is not a strong suit, either.I've seen and ridden these, they do work but not ready for prime time.
I've seen and ridden these, they do work but not ready for prime time.
Are you talkin' final drives
OM
visian
look out!!!
Nice.
Indeed!
When you take a look at the chain/bevel gear/shaft/Ujoint/bevel gear/shaft/bevel gear system on that Christini, the BMW rear drive pales in complexity.
Yamaha did something with hydrostatic drive on a 450, then shelved the project.
Their latest effort involves their R1 sport bike... this is interesting stuff!
I'll bet Honda could knock something like this out of the park.
bravo616
New member
While it appears that Honda did a nice job with the AT, I don't think BMW will break a sweat. Despite the costs, the GS/GSA is a benchmark. The customers are loyal to a fault and very few will give up their GS's for a Honda. I still think that despite some woes, BMW is seen as producing a bike for the serious rider, at least in this category. While Honda might steal a few sales with the AT, the GS/GSA will continue to dominate the adventure market for the foreseeable future. I really like the AT as I did my Trans Alp before it, but there is no way I will part with my GSA for one. Now I might buy one outright if I can convince "household six" I need yet another bike.
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