2015 R1200RT-P Won't Go Into Neutral

[windsailor97]

My new-to-me 2015 R1200RT-P doesn't want to go into neural once it is warmed up. I pull up into a parking space and it carefully lifting the gear lever just pops up into 2nd. If I mess with it, eventually I can get it. If there is a trick, I haven't found it yet. (Maybe I just don't know how the bike works)

Has anyone experienced this? Too much free play in the clutch lever?

Thanks!

 

[jimbem]

When i had my 2008 K1200GT I experienced the same thing . It turned out I needed a clutch. The clutch didn't slip at all but I didn't try to make it slip either. I don't remember who diagnosed the bad clutch but after I had the clutch replaced it was easy to get into neutral again.

 

[PGlaves]

I suspect the clutch hub splines need to be lubricated.

 

[craydds]

time for a new clutch

 

[rick601]

One of my bikes is very hard to hit Neutral from first...but from second...pretty easy, so I do that. It's been a while, so the clutch thing may not apply. Wondering if it's POSSIBLE OP 2ND to N is an option?

 

[dennypink]

I suspect the clutch hub splines need to be lubricated.

Doesn't the clutch on a water head run in oil?
DP

 

[omega man]

I have seen this when too many gears are "passed through" on the way to neutral. Example would be coming to a stop in 3rd and then looking for neutral.
OM

 

[PGlaves]

Doesn't the clutch on a water head run in oil?
DP

My bad. Not paying attention to the model.

 

[r0ckrat]

I have seen this when too many gears are "passed through" on the way to neutral. Example would be coming to a stop in 3rd and then looking for neutral.
OM

This is a good point. OP could try letting out the clutch enough to feel a little grab to seat the gear fully, and then try to find neutral.

 

[derache123]

I also happen to have recently acquired a 2015 RT-P. I find that I do have to be relatively careful when putting the bike in neutral since it's very easy to skip directly from 1 to 2 or vice versa if I use a little bit too much force. I've mostly gotten used to it though and it hasn't really been an issue - I owned an F800GT before this, and getting into neutral on that bike was also pretty finnicky. Always just thought of it as a BMW thing.

 

[PoorUB]

You might try service the hydraulic clutch and see what happens. Some times old fluid and/or air in the lines cause the clutch to drag slightly.

Flush the fluid and replace it with new and be sure to bleed to well. In fact, just suck all the old fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir, , wipe it out and add new, then bleed it a bunch adding new until you are certain you have new fluid at the slave cylinder.

It can't hurt!

 

[strataj]

I know the bike is a 2015 but you may want to check the clutch fluid level, it may be too full. My 2014 came from the factory over filled.

 

[windsailor97]

Thanks for the helpful comments. Much appreciated!

I adjusted the clutch lever tension and that seems to make it better. It is still a bit finicky. That might just be the machine. The oil is the the trans fluid on wetheads and it was recently changed (Liqui Moly 4T 10W-40) and is at the appropriate level.

Thanks!

 

[strataj]

Thanks for the helpful comments. Much appreciated!

I adjusted the clutch lever tension and that seems to make it better. It is still a bit finicky. That might just be the machine. The oil is the the trans fluid on wetheads and it was recently changed (Liqui Moly 4T 10W-40) and is at the appropriate level.

Thanks!

I was recommending you check the Mineral Oil level in the clutch master cylinder.

 

[lee]

was recently changed (Liqui Moly 4T 10W-40) and is at the appropriate level.

Thanks!

Maybe the 10w-40 is the problem.
The recommended oil is 5W-40.
Did the problem start after the oil change.

 

[windsailor97]

I was recommending you check the Mineral Oil level in the clutch master cylinder.

Thanks! I was not aware of this as it isn't listed under maintenance. Is the reservoir easily accessible?

I found this insightful. https://www.r1200rforum.com/threads/2015-r1200r-lc-clutch-oil-change-gravity-bleed.52025/

As for 10W 40 oil being an issue, I am not sure. It is new to me and changed the oil soon after I got it. It seems surprising (but not impossible) that 10W vs 5W would do that.

 

[strataj]

Thanks! I was not aware of this as it isn't listed under maintenance. Is the reservoir easily accessible?

I found this insightful. https://www.r1200rforum.com/threads/2015-r1200r-lc-clutch-oil-change-gravity-bleed.52025/

As for 10W 40 oil being an issue, I am not sure. It is new to me and changed the oil soon after I got it. It seems surprising (but not impossible) that 10W vs 5W would do that.

The clutch master cylinder is on your handlebars so access doesn't get easier. If you are a member of a local BMW club this might be a question for them, I'm sure you'll get lot's of help if you ask during a weekly breakfast or monthly meeting.

 

[LFarling]

Thanks! I was not aware of this as it isn't listed under maintenance. Is the reservoir easily accessible?

I found this insightful. https://www.r1200rforum.com/threads/2015-r1200r-lc-clutch-oil-change-gravity-bleed.52025/

As for 10W 40 oil being an issue, I am not sure. It is new to me and changed the oil soon after I got it. It seems surprising (but not impossible) that 10W vs 5W would do that.

Well 10w-40w engine oil would not be a issue UNLESS it was not rated for wet clutch use. Then if your clutch is contaminated I am not sure you can cure it other then replacing it? The wet clutch NEEDS a wet clutch friendly oil or it will eventual glaze and slip.

And be sure to use mineral oil in the clutch or that is a big can of worms. Since there is not a EASY way to flush the clutch, I bought a can of mineral oil, used a turkey baster and pulled the old fluid out, wiped it dry with a microfiber cloth, refilled, ran the bike a few times and rinsed and repeated 3 times in all. Mineral oil is not hygroscopic, meaning it does not draw moisture as brake fluid does. IMHO no item is lifetime and if there is any particulate in it it cant be good. While there was not as much residue in it as the brake side, it did have a fine settlement on the bottom that wiped out. I am OCD on maintenance so I am not saying you need to do this at all, I just needed to do it.

Next the other not called out maintenance task, coolant drop and replace. 4+ years is not long in the scheme of things. Especially if we do the old compare of car to bike. Like brake fluid every 2 years who does that on their car? Same for coolant, who changes coolant every 4 years in their car? That said if my car goes out I am in a closed shelter, and on 4 wheels with a cage. On a bike not so much.

Maintenance is IMHO, the most important thing you can do for you bike and you.

Again check your bikes fluid requirements, not only amount, but very important the ratings of the fluids required. Nothing will ruin your day more then the wrong fluid specifications in your bike.

 

[windsailor97]

No to go down the oil thread path but I used this https://products.liqui-moly.us/oils/motorbike-4t-sae-10w-40-1.html 10w-40 4T so I don't think its that. I am no going to get into the clutch until it becomes a greater issue.

Thanks All!