2013 R1200RT - tire pressure and valve adjustment intervals?

[NATHANMONK]

After experiencing bad wear on the original Bridgestones that came with my R1200RT model year 2013 I decided to give Metzler Z8's a try. While they did last a little, and I mean very little, longer than the Bridgestones I was still disillusioned with my tire performance. The Bridgestones lasted only 5500 miles and the Z8's only about 6400. So, after reading articles and researching the Michelin PR's I decided to go with the new PR4's. Though it is too early to tell how long they will last, I must say I am very impressed with they handle on the road. They center up really well and you can actually feel the shift from the harder centerline of the tire to the softer composite on the outer sidewalls. The tires feel like they grip really well. So, so far so good. Now, my big thing is just how much pressure to run in them. The owners manual says basically 36 in the front and 38 in the rear. Having installed car tires in my earlier years I learned that over inflation causes more wear in the center of the tire while under inflation causes greater wear on the outer rims of the tire. Of course, that is automobile tires. The PR4's are harder and much thicker in the centerline, more so on the rear tire. Now, my dealer says run them at 40 in front and back. I am dubious about these numbers as I feel they might be wanting me to wear out the tires sooner so they can sell me more. Humh, figure?

So, if anyone out there with experience with the PR's has any advice, please give it to me!

Next item, my manual says after 12,000 the valves on the camhead only need to be checked in 12,000 mile intervals. My BMW tech says 6,000. So, which is correct, the tech or the manual?

 

[glenfeld]

Tire inflation is pretty important -(thanks for the opening comment Mr. Obvious).

For my $.02 I run exactly at the Mfg specs - then add 1 #.
Why - It's a preference based on understanding why a tire wears. We know that they wear quicker if underinflated, but why is that? It's due to the added 'squirming' the rubber does when it deforms against the pavement. The more it deforms - the more squirming/rubbing - the more wear. So, people with a lot more letters after their names than I, develop the suggested specs and they are probably an excellent place to start.

Then add 1 pound - why? It's a tradeoff - I'm setting myself up for a little extra mileage, at a loss of a little bit of traction. But an acceptable amount. On the street, I purposefully dial my riding back - I get the pucker factor filled when I go to the track - keep a safety margin when riding (at least that's the plan). Then the extra little air minimizes the deflection just a little bit to increase the tire mileage. Some would comment that trading off on safety is a questionable tradeoff - some would say this plan isn't enough to make a difference - those are opinions.

Your results may vary. Based on experience - I expect to see 13K on the PR's on the RT now. Pretty even wear - but I use and practice my Total Control exercises on that bike, so the sidewall gets some regular wear.

At the end of the day, it's 'what makes you feel good'?

 

[akbeemer]

I run PR2s on my R12R and got the best mileage I ever got. IIRC I got 12K on the front tire and 10K on the rear; that is much better than the typical 6K I'd get front and rear. I was experiencing serious cupping up front. I started running 38-39 PST upfront and the cupping nearly ceased.

Valves - the manual is probably correct. My R is a hexhead rather than a camhead like yours. It is a simple procedure to check the valves on either bike so why not develop a track record and see what is needed. My hexhead calls for checking every 6k. I'm at 40K miles and have had to make one minor adjustment to one valve in all those miles. If you have a shop do the work then make sure they tell you if they had to mke an adjustment and how much was required; if you want to at least do the check or the entire job yourself, then the how-to can be found here.

Good luck.

PS: Nathan, It will make things easier for people to follow your posts and to know whether or not they want to read it if your title is more descriptive then just using your nickname each time. For example, this thread could be called "2013 R12RT valve adjustment interval." Welcome to the forum.

 

[NATHANMONK]

R1200RT tire pressure and valve adjustment

I run PR2s on my R12R and got the best mileage I ever got. IIRC I got 12K on the front tire and 10K on the rear; that is much better than the typical 6K I'd get front and rear. I was experiencing serious cupping up front. I started running 38-39 PST upfront and the cupping nearly ceased.

Valves - the manual is probably correct. My R is a hexhead rather than a camhead like yours. It is a simple procedure to check the valves on either bike so why not develop a track record and see what is needed. My hexhead calls for checking every 6k. I'm at 40K miles and have had to make one minor adjustment to one valve in all those miles. If you have a shop do the work then make sure they tell you if they had to mke an adjustment and how much was required; if you want to at least do the check or the entire job yourself, then the how-to can be found here.

Good luck.

PS: Nathan, It will make things easier for people to follow your posts and to know whether or not they want to read it if your title is more descriptive then just using your nickname each time. For example, this thread could be called "2013 R12RT valve adjustment interval." Welcome to the forum.

Kevin, thanks for the advice, I will do that for sure. Thanks for the welcome. I am a nubie to the forum so always open to suggestions!

 

[deilenberger]

Nathan,

I'll change the title of your thread. Please review: http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?46055

And I'm not a real believer in over-inflating tires to chase more miles from them. My current Michelin Pilot-Road 3's have run close to stock pressure (when loaded for a tour I up the pressure about 2PSI front and rear) - and they currently have 15,000 miles+ on them, and look good for another 3,000 or so. Since the PR4 is claiming 20% longer tread life I figure they'll make 20,000 miles easily.

BTW - your tech is either greedy, or confused. I might look for a different tech. Your camhead calls for 12k valve clearance checks.. (so far - few people have reported needing to "adjust" them.)

 

[racer7]

Like Don says- your model is 12K checks on valves. Once broke in and set properly, valves go a long time on most bikes without needing anything done.

My bike is usally loaded and ready to tour, even when in local use, and my use is faster than Don's in NJ, I'm sure. So I prefer a few lbs up on factory recommended.

The most important thing is regular checks with a good gauge. At least every 2 weeks. Do not rely on tpms systems as a substitute.
The Pilot Roads are as good as it gets for mileage on your bike. But what you actually get depends on speeds, road surfaces, rider style re controls, and whether they're properly inflated all the time. A track junkie who plays a lot on public roads can get as little as 2K from a PR while folks who ride on smoother stuff at slower speeds might even get 20K on the new PR4 though they're too new for that to be proven. (Don and I are both hoping to join those ranks, I'm sure)
There isn't really any such thing as typical or normal but many folks report about 10K or a bit more from the PR3 rear so 20% better equates to 12K for them if true.

 

[lkchris]

How long a motorcycle tire lasts should never be the first priority.

To get that mileage handling and traction will be compromised. The tradeoffs define the priorities.

And yes, the Bridgestone BT21s fitted ex-factory on recent RTs are terrible tires. Mine were off well before they were worn out.

In the car world there are winter and summer tires, the former recommended (some places required) when temperatures get below 45 degrees F. You need softer rubber (among other things) when it's colder and you may know winter tires don't get mileage ratings. Wall Street Journal recently tested a hot rod Audi and said the test was a meaningless bust as the car had summer tires and it was winter.

I was a bit amused at a recent discussion on the BMW LT forum where guys were getting dumped at low speeds in cold weather, usually just starting a ride, first corner of the ride. Probably had "hockey puck" high mileage tires fitted. Then there was the Dunlop 491 on Airheads--stay home if it's raining.

 

[jrbelknap]

The Michelin X-ice Xi3 winter is rated for 40,000 miles. First one that I'm aware of, just fyi. I always run my sport-touring tires at 38-39 F and 40-42 R, depending on load.

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

 

[motodan]

Per BMW Maintenance schedule for R models 2010 and newer the following is 10 km or 6,000 mile check list. Valves at 6,000 per this schedule. So where does it state every 12,000 miles for valve checks? My 2013 RT manual doesn't state 12k between checks. Usually you'll have a 6,000 mile (service) and then a 12,000 (full service). BMW has the habit of stating each separately as in: service these items at every 6,000 mile interval - then listing the items. Then they list the 12,000 mile services to be done and state service these items at every 12,000 interval.

Some people see that valve check listed under the "every 12,000 mile interval" and forget the schedule also has valve inspection listed in the 6,000 mile service with those "services at every 6,000 mile interval". In essence the interval is every 6,000 miles for valves inspections.

From A&S BMW Maintenance page:

BMW Motorrad Maintenance schedule
0430 - R 1200 RT, K26 11

Customer Registration No. Odometer reading

Order No. Date Mechanic's & Manager's signature
00 00 111 BMW Service

Reading fault memory with BMW Motorrad diagnostic system

11 00 611 Oil change, engine, with filter Annually or every 10,000 km

11 34 502 Checking valve clearance (for maintenance) Every 10,000 km
Visual inspection

 

[deilenberger]

Per BMW Maintenance schedule for R models 2010 and newer the following is 10 km or 6,000 mile check list. Valves at 6,000 per this schedule. So where does it state every 12,000 miles for valve checks? My 2013 RT manual doesn't state 12k between checks. Usually you'll have a 6,000 mile (service) and then a 12,000 (full service). BMW has the habit of stating each separately as in: service these items at every 6,000 mile interval - then listing the items. Then they list the 12,000 mile services to be done and state service these items at every 12,000 interval.

Some people see that valve check listed under the "every 12,000 mile interval" and forget the schedule also has valve inspection listed in the 6,000 mile service with those "services at every 6,000 mile interval". In essence the interval is every 6,000 miles for valves inspections.

From A&S BMW Maintenance page:

BMW Motorrad Maintenance schedule
0430 - R 1200 RT, K26 11

Customer Registration No. Odometer reading

Order No. Date Mechanic's & Manager's signature
00 00 111 BMW Service

Reading fault memory with BMW Motorrad diagnostic system

11 00 611 Oil change, engine, with filter Annually or every 10,000 km

11 34 502 Checking valve clearance (for maintenance) Every 10,000 km
Visual inspection

Has A&S ever updated that page? Last time I looked at it - it was for the 2006 model year.

 

[marchyman]

Has A&S ever updated that page? Last time I looked at it - it was for the 2006 model year.

It's for "0430 - R 1200 RT, K26 11". That's a 2010 or later model. The earlier model was 0388, I think. Check out the A&S current index: http://www.ascycles.com/bmw_motorcycle_service_and_maintenance_schedules.aspx and you'll find that they have separate sections for "Hex Head" and "DOHC" R models. Nothing for the Wet Head, yet.

 

[motodan]

Yes, the A&S is an updated version for 2010 and newer RT's.

 

[dpmonk]

checking valves

Seems to me that if the owner is capable of changing oil he should be capable of checking valve clearance himself.
I can't wait for my brother to bring his cam head over so I can get my oily fingers and feeler gauges on his camhead. I work much cheaper than his dealer. If any of the valves ever measure out of spec then he can bring it to the dealer for proper shims.

I opted for the 09 hexhead rather than the 2010 camhead when I bought my gs. I have an comfy feeling with screw and locknuts.

I wil even show him my modified turkey baster I use for changing final drive oil every time I change the rear tire.