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1996 R850R transmission question - tricky into first gear.

miseenscene

New member
Good day,

While continuing my work on a recently acquired R850R with 20,000 miles, I have noticed that the transmission is a reluctant to drop into 1st gear. Neutral is easy to find and the transmission shifts both up and down quite smoothly but dropping the cycle into 1st, even when warmed up, is occasionally tricky.

Is this one of those common BMW transmission quirks? Would anyone have advice on adjusting the shift pedal linkage to address this problem?
It does not really trouble me, but I am teaching my wife to ride on this bike and it is frustrating and hazardous for her as a beginner.

Thank you all.

Be well, ride safely.
RK
 
Every BMW I have owned or ridden had a significant amount of klunking when shifting into first at a stop. Worse when the transmission is cold, but even when thoroughly warmed it’s still there. Make sure your clutch control system has been serviced and is working properly, so you have full clutch release with the lever pulled back all the way, and beyond that—yeah, they pretty much all do that.

Best,
DeVern
 
Also, don’t wait until you come to a complete stop to downshift. BMW’s shift best, up or down while moving. Enjoy that bike!
 
Try dropping in first gear as soon as you pull your clutch in. My RT does the same thing if I pull the clutch in and wait to put in first gear. The short answer as to why is this. With a dry clutch when it is not engaged the transmission stops, after a short time. If the cogs are not lined up at this point, it will not go into gear. When you are riding down the road all gears are turning so everything engages when shifting. There is always a slight drag with a wet clutch, turning the input shaft in the transmission very slowly and allowing the cogs to engage.. If I’m reading your post correctly, there is no problem.
Doug
 
Try dropping in first gear as soon as you pull your clutch in. My RT does the same thing if I pull the clutch in and wait to put in first gear. The short answer as to why is this. With a dry clutch when it is not engaged the transmission stops, after a short time. If the cogs are not lined up at this point, it will not go into gear. When you are riding down the road all gears are turning so everything engages when shifting. There is always a slight drag with a wet clutch, turning the input shaft in the transmission very slowly and allowing the cogs to engage.. If I’m reading your post correctly, there is no problem.
Doug

100% Correct. Dry clutches stop completely when disengaged.
If it won't go into gear let the clutch out a bit and get the disc to move slightly.
It will snick right into 1st.
 
100% Correct. Dry clutches stop completely when disengaged.
If it won't go into gear let the clutch out a bit and get the disc to move slightly.
It will snick right into 1st.
When mine does that, usually cold, I put downward pressure on the shift lever and let the clutch out a little. It doesn't take much and it slips into 1st easily.

Frank
 
The process of changing gears involves sticking pegs in holes. The pegs, called gear "dogs" slide into mating holes in an adjacent gear piece. When things inside the transmission are turning the dogs can easily slide into place. However, if things are not turning the dogs might be lined up with the mating holes but odds are the are not. So it can't/won't go into gear.

That is the reason that slightly releasing the clutch allows it to go into gear because that starts parts turning in the transmission.
 
Good evening,

Thank you everyone for the information and advice.
I did adjust the clutch level play per the Haynes specifications as part of my overall cycle maintenance so I believe the clutch is correctly disengaged when the lever is drawn.

The symptoms are just as several members elucidated: a bit worse when cold and usually only when at a dead stop. Having ridden a number of dry clutch cycles in my history, the clutch techniques described are familiar. I am grateful for the assurance that there is no inherent known flaw with the transmissions from this era and/or this model. It is however frustrating for my spouse as she learns to ride. Thankfully she grew up driving manual transmission cars and is an avid bicyclist so she is well ahead of many beginners.

In all other respects the cycle performs and rides quite well. There idle seems a bit off since the cycle does rock more than I think appropriate at a stand still. Idle is just under 1K according to the tach. I do plan to synchronize the injectors prior to adjusting the idle but I need to procure a Grok or Twinmax first. Incidentally, if anyone is in Chattanooga, TN., I would be delighted to rent you synchronizer set up. I don't really want to spend $150 for a device I may use only once every 5 years.

Thanks again. Hope we might cross paths this season somewhere out there.

Be well, ride safely.
RK
 
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