I dropped my (deep) oil pan to check and see if I had an extended oil pick-up (I do). I also want to stop a nagging "weep" around the gasket. I know I read somewhere that I am supposed to put a very thin coat of sealer on the surfaces before installing the gasket but I also know I read on this forum that the gasket is supposed to be installed dry. I believe I also read that I should not use any thread lock compound. The manual says 6.5 - 9 ftbs which translates to 78- 108 inlbs on my 1/4" drive torque wrench. I figured on splitting that. Also, with the deep oil pan, I can see the bottom of the dipstick with the pan off and I should have plenty of room to run the bike about a quart low on the stick and still have enough oil. When I fill to the top of the range on the stick, the oil goes somewhere relatively quickly and settles around the bottom range on the stick. Any comments on any of the above? Much appreciated.
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1976 R75/6 Oil Pan Gasket
- Thread starter cseltz
- Start date
Check the Similar Threads pane at the bottom of the screen. Basically, there is no sealant on the gasket. However, because some (or all) of the bolts are through bolts into the sump area, oil can wick down the threads. So, the suggestion would be to put some non-hardening sealant such as Permatex Ultra Gray on the threads to seal that path.
As for torque, I don't use a torque wrench but rather put my 10mm socket on the end of a nut driver. Then run the bolts in using a criss-cross pattern, working my way around the circumference until they're snug...that's really all you need. After a heat cycle or two, I come back with the nut driver and snug them up again. Using the nut driver pretty much eliminates the possibility of over-torqueing as well as prevents you from squishing the heck out of the gasket...which will create more leaks.
As for torque, I don't use a torque wrench but rather put my 10mm socket on the end of a nut driver. Then run the bolts in using a criss-cross pattern, working my way around the circumference until they're snug...that's really all you need. After a heat cycle or two, I come back with the nut driver and snug them up again. Using the nut driver pretty much eliminates the possibility of over-torqueing as well as prevents you from squishing the heck out of the gasket...which will create more leaks.
RPGR90s
Active member
Adding to 20774s comment, I believe a stock gasket has a side with writing and side with no writing. If memory serves, the written side goes towards the engine, forming a better seal.
I've used gasket material in the past and it always leaked. Install dry and use material on the bolts as suggested. Torque spec, if you're anal and have a nice torque wrench is about 7-9 foot lbs., I believe.
Thank you. The gasket will only go one way as it has an indent on one side. I put it on dry with both surfaces cleaned thoroughly. I put a small amount of permatex soft, non-hardening "form-a-gasket" on each bolt and torqued to about 95 inch pounds in a criss-cross pattern starting at about 50 inch pounds and going up in increments of 10. I do have a nice set of Snap On click type torque wrenches that I bought on either e-Bay or Craigslist (can't remember which) quite a few years ago. Every time I use them the cost per use goes down so I use them whenever possible! I'll report back on this in the summer if anyone is interested. I think it is pretty standard for most of you though. Thanks for all the advice.
ebeeby
Member
Thought I had a leak of the cam shaft seal inside the front cover. A fastidious investigation found no leak there. Decided that the pan needed going into anyway (hadn't checked pick-up tube since purchase) and, the new pan gasket solved the problem. Apparently, backwash wind had blown the pan leak forward and up.
Oh, and, the pan was shiny clean and the pick-up tube solidly in place. Used a dry stock gasket - dry for a year now.
Oh, and, the pan was shiny clean and the pick-up tube solidly in place. Used a dry stock gasket - dry for a year now.
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