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06 RT idle/throttle problem

jgsmith

New member
I have a strange problem. Some might say I have several, but only one that applies to this forum. :) Here goes:

I have a 2006 R1200RT with 60,000 miles (100,000kms), owned since new, and all service done by the dealer with the exception of some oil changes. 2 years ago, when the bike was 4 years old and with ~40,000 miles, it started to have an intermittent stalling problem. I have had the dealer look at it twice, and the only conclusion has been, "we can't reproduce it, or find anything wrong, but happy to keep spending your money if you want". This only happens when the bike is thoroughly warmed up, and does not always happen. While I am riding, there is no sign of an issue. Good response, good power. I pull to a stop, release the throttle, and the bike idles very low and rough, then cuts out. I start it back up, which can take 2-3 tries, and it will only stay running if i give it some throttle. Doesn't take much, just enough to get the idle up and its fine. Once this happens, I can never completely let off the throttle, or it will stall. This makes for extremely hairy riding in traffic. If I stop the bike and let it sit for a bit, the problem will usually go away until the bike is thoroughly warmed up again. As an example, last summer I rode from Toronto to the Redmond rally. I had no problems at all for the first 10 days, then I had the problem every day, usually starting mid-late morning, and continuing until I stopped for the day. After 4-5 days, it went away. It feels exactly as though the idle just needs to be increased a bit, but I am told there is no such thing on the RT. Its all handled by the software.

Here is what I have done so far:

Spark plugs: Been through several sets, no change
Cables: I have looked and so has the dealer. All seems ok.
Electrical connections: I have looked and so has the dealer. All seems ok.
Valve adjustments: Been through several, no change
Throttle reset: Done, no change
Stepper motor rest using the GS-911: No change

Any thoughts, or do I use this as an excuse to get a new GS? :)

Jim
 
Any thoughts, or do I use this as an excuse to get a new GS? :)

Any excuse for a new GS, no?

Stick coil? When it runs rough prior to dying is it perhaps running on only one cylinder? If so is it always the same cylinder that is failing/intermittent?
 
Just a thought..

Since you have access to a GS-911, it would be interesting to observe the O2 sensor output from both cylinders. See if one goes wacky when it idles poorly. That could be a dying O2 sensor, a pinched wire (I had that..) or something going on in the cylinder that knocks the sensor out of range. Working correctly you should see roughly 0.75V swings through 0V at 1 second intervals - on both cylinders. They won't be exactly time aligned, and won't be exactly the same shape - but a bad O2 sensor will typically be slow to respond, or not responding at all.

FWIW - there was another discussion on testing your stick coils in a thread I just responded to.. http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?t=56876
 
I was on the O2 sensor line of thought as well, which was the reason I bought the GS-911. Unfortunately, due to the fit of the seat pan, the GS-911 cannot be connected to an RT while running unless you leave the seat off. I have connected the GS-911 to the bike immediately after a ride where the problem occurred, but there were no faults reported, though I'm not sure this would have been recorded/reported. A couple questions on the O2 sensor line of thought:

1. If the O2 sensor was failing, would the bike run fine at higher RPM (cruising at 4000 RPM) but cut out at idle?
2. Is there any other way to check the O2 sensors?

On the stick coil thought, the bike runs fine until I come to a stop, at which point the idle is not high enough to keep the bike running, and it dies, so I don't think its a problem in just one cylinder. I'll check out the link to test the stick coil.

Jim
 
The diagnostic plug can be removed from its holder and laid aside so you can connect a GS-911 and get real time data while riding.

The data may be your clue.

Most such issues turn out to be something electrical but there is an outside chance of it being something like a marginal injector given the miles to first event. Finding intermittent electricals is typically annoying and it often needs a bit of good luck in the form of a fortuitous observation.
 
I looked at the diagnostic plug, but it was not obvious how I could remove it to connect the GS-911. This would be a huge help. Is there a secret?

Jim
 
I also have a 2006 R1200RT. Been going though a long drawn out process of ellimination. Finally had it down to either the Idle Actuators or the Oxygen Sensors. Decided to take a look at the Idle Actuators first.

My finding were upon removing the Idle Actuators. The RH Actuator flew apart upon testing it for motion. It appears to me that this is a sealed assembly and there is no way these things should come apart and if so it is more than likely bad.

The reason I am saying this is that there is no way for the computer to pickup on this malfunction because it is a mechanical malfunction. As far as the electrical part of the Actuator it works perfectly. And the computer sees nothing..

I found a thread where you can test these and you may find something or not. But it said to remove them from the bike. Plug them back into their connectors. Then cycle the key on and off. (Do Not Start!) You can watch them move in and out. If it flys apart. Then you found your problem. Or you could just replace them both and be done with it.

I have started a thread on this same issue just recently. Called R1200RT Idle Actuators. I will post my finding ASAP. Waiting on parts at this time...

Good Luck,,
Dale
 
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