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'05 R1200RT- Final Drive Oil Change

danvestedbb

New member
I am going to attempt to change my oil in my final drive. Has anyone done this before? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
Its a pretty simple process. Once you do it the first time you will be wondering why you every paid a dealer to do it. I recommend 75w-90 SAF-XO, I believe the BMW brand is made by Castrol, 180ml and you should be all good. Check out Beemerbonyard.com for the final drive washers and they even have a fill bottle that makes it even easier.
 
Be carefull with the o ring of the speed sensor when you replace it. If you damaged it you will get a leak. ( Don't ask me how I know :rolleyes)

I use a 60 ml syringe to fill it. 3 shots and it's done.

Easy to do, just take your time
 
You should also lube the splines on the drive shaft. I think its Honda Moly 60 lube.
 
You should also lube the splines on the drive shaft. I think its Honda Moly 60 lube.

well, at some point sure. but it has nothing to do with changing FD fluid, nor does it need to happen at anywhere near that frequency.
for the DS, you'd do it whenever you change your pivot bearings- about every 50K or so.

or were you thinking of something else?
 
On the '05 you have to drop the final drive down to drain it, doing so separates the rear splines. Most people would clean and re-lube them at that point (I used the guard dog moly from beemer boneyard). It's very important to make sure you get the rubber boot on and sealed properly when you put it back (I would use a little marine grease on it) to make sure water doesn't get in to your drive shaft.
 
On the '05 you have to drop the final drive down to drain it, doing so separates the rear splines. Most people would clean and re-lube them at that point (I used the guard dog moly from beemer boneyard). It's very important to make sure you get the rubber boot on and sealed properly when you put it back (I would use a little marine grease on it) to make sure water doesn't get in to your drive shaft.

if that's the case, I'd look into tapping a drain hole while I had it off the first time, so that I wouldn't have to take it off a 2nd time for that particular job.
if splines exposed, lube 'em.
 
if that's the case, I'd look into tapping a drain hole while I had it off the first time, so that I wouldn't have to take it off a 2nd time for that particular job.
if splines exposed, lube 'em.

You don't take it off. There is no meat in the case at the 6 O'clock position for threads. You'd need to make lots of special tools to pull the case apart and pull the gears to do the job even if there was meat, and it's not that big of a deal using the existing drain hole.

p-20110125-1129-2668.jpg


Thats a GS, but an RT would look similar.
 
well, at some point sure. but it has nothing to do with changing FD fluid, nor does it need to happen at anywhere near that frequency.
for the DS, you'd do it whenever you change your pivot bearings- about every 50K or so.

or were you thinking of something else?
Why are the pivot bearings being replaced? I've yet to hear of one failing on this design. The oilhead design - yes - hexheads - nope.
 
You should also lube the splines on the drive shaft. I think its Honda Moly 60 lube.

Or: Optimoly Paste TA ( part # 18219062599) which can also be used on the exhaust pipe clamp if you have a hard time putting it back together. The Moly 60 is good for the FD splines but cannot handle the heat of the exhaust.

I always lube the splines every time I do an FD oil change.
 
^^
What he said. I always clean and lube the splines when it is apart. Why not? You're in there already.
 
Go bad?

I did this final drive oil change 2 years ago. Does the BMW branded 80W90 (I think that's what weight I used) go bad? I only used a small portion of the container, sealed it right back up.
 
I did this final drive oil change 2 years ago. Does the BMW branded 80W90 (I think that's what weight I used) go bad? I only used a small portion of the container, sealed it right back up.

That's a good question, but without an analysis I don't think you'll get a definitive answer. Some say once the bottle is cracked open, it'd done because of moisture absorption. Others don't worry about it because the bottle is mostly sealed off from the elements and properly stored. Personally, I'm in the don't worry about it camp, but I don't have any science to back me up.

Also, to all, the best tip I've read about FD oil changes came from another forum in which they recommended a hair dye squirt bottle. It only costs a couple of bucks and is the perfect size to measure and refill the correct amount of fluid, plus it has a nozzle already built into the lid.
 
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