Having an issue with my 06 RT that I need an expert opinion(s) on. Noticed throughout the summer, and has gotten progressively worse as the season has gone on, when starting out from a dead stop the motor almost dies. I was told not to rev over 2000 rpm when letting the clutch out from a dead stop in 1st gear as this would wear out the clutch. The motor pulls down so hard it almost stops. Makes the valves rattle and is a bit concerning. One person tells me it’s not the clutch. I don’t know what to think of it. All the fluid levels are in order from the motor to the final drive. Has anyone experienced this before or had similar issues. Please respond.
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06 rt1200
- Thread starter bogusm
- Start date
I have an 06 RT and I think I am probably at 2500-3000 rpm when pulling away from stop. Not really certain because I’m not usually looking at the tach then but I’m pretty sure I’m over 2000.
I have experienced those same symptoms on two occasions. In both cases it started shortly before it was time for an oil change and valve adjustment. After adjusting the valves (minor adjustments that I did not think would make much difference) the problems disappeared.
I have experienced those same symptoms on two occasions. In both cases it started shortly before it was time for an oil change and valve adjustment. After adjusting the valves (minor adjustments that I did not think would make much difference) the problems disappeared.
rangemaster
New member
Kind of what i was thinking. It was a BMW mechanic who told me to not rev over 2000 rpm from stop though.
Thanks for the advise.
pglaves
#13338
I think most riders couldn't even tell you what rpm they are at as they release the clutch on rollout. I can't. That part of my ride is by sound and feel. I do know that I rev my little 310 more than I did my R1150R or my K75s. And a bit more uphill from a stop and less downhill or level from a stop. Sound and feel!
With my 310 I have killed the engine a time or two which never happened with my K75s. The K75 engine reaches 90% of peak torque at only 2,000 rpm but that is a very special engine.
You have a dilemma. Over slipping a clutch can shorten clutch life. But, lugging the engine shortens engine life. Clutches are easier to replace than main bearings. Go for a few more rpm on roll-out.
lkraus
New member
The mechanics concern is clutch damage/wear from slipping at high revs. A dry clutch will not take the abuse a wet one will. I've seen riders rev the engine and then use the clutch to control speed clear across an intersection. That will not work (for long) with a dry clutch. Try it and you will smell the clutch vaporizing. You want to release the clutch quickly to minimize slipping and then accelerate.
With my '06 RT, I usually have the clutch fully engaged within one bike length from a stop. Yes, coming from a UJM with a wet clutch, that took some adjustment and parking lot practice.
I don't think setting a fixed rpm and then releasing the clutch is really what anyone is suggesting. You want to increase the rpms from idle at the same time you ease out the clutch. You might hit 2000 rpm by the time the lever is all the way out, but if the engine is still accelerating at that point, you will not have the lugging symptoms you describe.
With my '06 RT, I usually have the clutch fully engaged within one bike length from a stop. Yes, coming from a UJM with a wet clutch, that took some adjustment and parking lot practice.
I don't think setting a fixed rpm and then releasing the clutch is really what anyone is suggesting. You want to increase the rpms from idle at the same time you ease out the clutch. You might hit 2000 rpm by the time the lever is all the way out, but if the engine is still accelerating at that point, you will not have the lugging symptoms you describe.
