2004 R1150RS, 43,450 miles Won't run

2004 R1150RS, 43,450 miles - new fuel filter, new fuel injectors from that Germany after-market company, clean fuel (my initial issue was contaminated fuel), new lower plugs, checked spark at all plugs (good) new o-rings etc. Will start with enrichment lever full on, pops and farts running, starts to letting lever go. Right exhaust <100⁰, left at ~255⁰. Obviously right cylinder not firing. Have not checked spray pattern yet.
Throttle body valve stuck closed?
,

MOONDOG59 said:

2004 R1150RS, 43,450 miles - new fuel filter, new fuel injectors from that Germany after-market company, clean fuel (my initial issue was contaminated fuel), new lower plugs, checked spark at all plugs (good) new o-rings etc. Will start with enrichment lever full on, pops and farts running, starts to letting lever go. Right exhaust <100⁰, left at ~255⁰. Obviously right cylinder not firing. Have not checked spray pattern yet.
Throttle body valve stuck closed?
,

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Check that the cable to the right throttle body is properly in place at the throttle body.

After that.............the basics. Compression is a good place to start.

Did you replace All of the rubber hoses in the tank?
Did you make sure the hoses from tank to fuel spider are not switched?

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I’d check the simple things first, starting with Paul’s suggestion to check the RH throttle cable. Next simplest check after that is to pull the injectors one at a time and aim them into a coffee can while cranking the engine. Pay special attention to the electrical connector on the RH injector and make sure it is properly seated. If the injectors are showing a strong pressurized spray then fuel pump, regulator, and connections should be ok. Also, it’s always wise to double-check the QD connecters when the tank has been removed, as an incompletely seated QD can leave the supply or return line blocked.

Best,
DeVern

I'll chime in to support the guys that advised looking to see if the throttle cable is in place. The symptoms you describe are exactly what I experienced when mine didn't seat after tank removal. Look closely - from a distance it seems all is well.

Forgot to mention that I replaced a fuel QD. If I am getting one cylinder hot and the other not, I would say fuel is flowing. I did not change hoses in the tank but I did from tank access plate to the QD. I am 99 ⁴⁴/¹⁰⁰% sure filter is correct direction.

Does enrichment cable go through Bowden box?

Run all the traps which is what I do with any new used bike. New plugs, valve adjustment, new oil in all places, air filter inspection, throttle body sync. Expose the bike and thottle bodies and use a wooden dowel to see if the butterflies open the same amount. Or a bic pen. If the bike has a throttlemaster it's very easy. Fuel delivery is really the last thing and if the bike has been sitting maybe fuel gelled up somewhere. Sea foam I also always put in the first few tanks in high concentrations to ensure all water is out of the system and in some cases it cleans things up and the bike runs better. You can get the Bowden box out and clean and relube which I did along with new cables. The cable runs are tight and it's easy for a cable end to hang outside its female receptacle or just be routed with interference. The process of ensuring enough free play before doing the sync is also important. Properly set the system should be very friction free and snappy.

You can test the injectors by swapping them side to side. That's all the things I would do. Well, maybe I would also deoxit every connector I could reach along with the plug wires but I would only share that excessive compulsion with close friends. I once magically fixed a friends K75 by pulling the air box and cleaning the connector of the sensor underneath it on top of the case. It went from running like crap and very rich to purring like a kitten. Keep at it, you will fix it.

I just saw last night that the right throttle pulley is not touching the stop when released. No resistance on cable. Throttle grip snaps back smartly but pulley not hitting stop. See attachment. Is that a idle stop?

MOONDOG59 said:

I just saw last night that the right throttle pulley is not touching the stop when released. No resistance on cable. Throttle grip snaps back smartly but pulley not hitting stop. See attachment. Is that a idle stop?View attachment 82807

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Which means (unless somebody has been messing with twisting adjusters) that the cable sheath is not in the correct position either at the top or the bottom. Or it means that the enrichener lever is on "full choke". If the cable is correctly positioned at the throttle body then I suspect something is dislodged in the bellcrank box where the cables are all connected under the tank.

MOONDOG59 said:

Does enrichment cable go through Bowden box?

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Yes

Is this a date, top right on this coil?
"03"? Bike is a 2004. I have never put new coils on
it. Coil is 18 years old??

I am puzzled why the coils are now an issue. The previously posted photograph clearly shows that the throttle body on the side not running is not closing. It will not run well if at all in this configuration. Task number one is to find out why that throttle body is failing to close.

It is probably a cable holding it open. Chasing other possibilities before troubleshooting and fixing this throttle body issue is just flailing. If the problem is not right where the cable connects to the throttle body then it is in the bellcrank box under the fuel tank; unless a rock or some other obstruction is jaming the throttle body pulley.

Solve this problem and I bet it will run well.

That "may" be a date code, but I wouldn't bet on it...
Note that you have two plugs per cylinder (2004, yes?)... From personal experience plus troubleshooting other bikes, I know that the engine WILL run on just the "lower" (peripheral) plug, just not as well, and it will be a bit harder to start and exhibit a poor idle.
They do sometimes fail - in their cars too - but do that cable re-seat first, and verify the fast idle cable routing, with a teeny bit of slack (one or two RCHs), and connections in the under-tank box.
By the way, the fast idle cable goes IN TO the distribution box, not "through" it.

PGlaves said:

I am puzzled why the coils are now an issue. The previously posted photograph clearly shows that the throttle body on the side not running is not closing. It will not run well if at all in this configuration. Task number one is to find out why that throttle body is failing to close.

It is probably a cable holding it open. Chasing other possibilities before troubleshooting and fixing this throttle body issue is just flailing. If the problem is not right where the cable connects to the throttle body then it is in the bellcrank box under the fuel tank; unless a rock or some other obstruction is jaming the throttle body pulley.

Solve this problem and I bet it will run well.

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I haven't told y'all that boths stops are hitting now. I pulled a cable sheath on the right side out of the Bowden box and waved my magic wand over it and the stops are making contact . I didn't disconnect anything or open anything. Just pulled a sheath out and pushed back it. Then I had a leaking fuel line this morning when tried to start it. Spent most of the day replacing lines and QDs. The coil question comes up as possibility. Removed and reinstalled all the plugs and saw that "date". But no matter what, those coils are probably OEM because I never changed them. They have to be at least 17-18 years old. I am hearing about coil failures. Just a possibility. I haven't gotten started yet. Stand by.

Good morning people, thanks for all the help with the issue.
Back on the right side throttle cable, when the cable sheathing goes through the side of the Bowden box, what is securing it at that point, if anything? I can push and pull on the sheathing and slide it in and out of the Bowden box therefore pulling the pulley off and on the stop. That is why the pulley was way off the stop earlier. Is that sheathing supposed to move?

And on a side note, I ordered two new coils from EuromotoElectrics. Those coils were 18 years old and I'm playing the odds that they are weak. I visibly checked the spark but as many have noted, not always a good indicator of the health of the coil. The saga continues!!

MOONDOG59 said:

And on a side note, I ordered two new coils from EuromotoElectrics. Those coils were 18 years old and I'm playing the odds that they are weak.

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Don't go to Vegas.

As noted in Post #14 and subsequent, you need to address your cable issue first. Having owned a dual-plug Oilhead, I can attest that a bad coil doesn't hinder starting or running as you have described it.

It sounds like at least one of the cables in the cable distributor (Bowden box) has come out of its anchor point. Here are a couple of pictures, one is off the Beemer Boneyard site and I don't know the source of the other (ADVRider? or something like that).
It's true that it's much easier for a coil to fire in the open air than when under compression... but do the cables first. Handle the tiny little plastic connector on the coils Very Carefully - they crack easily.