2002 R1150RT Fuel Pump 10a Fuse

(apologies if this has been answered, if so, can someone please provide link?)

Hello, my RT keeps blowing a fuel pump fuse. Blew it once a month ago and has been generally fine since. I didn't know what it was until I blew it twice on the way from work on the same day last week. It was over 100 degrees in slower (albeit and unfortunately normal) bumper to bumper traffic inching along the "easiest" way home....which is normall 65mph. The other route has lights and is max 55mph...but is an option I should try until they fix the roads in East El Paso...

Prev owners installed a centech aux fuse box with wiring for radar detector, garage door open/close via signal canx button, usb charging, and front-wheel forward-facing lighting....(the first two I don't use and need to completely remove.) This could be related, however, I started removing the wires to whichever ones weren't critical for forward, safe, momentum.

The garage door open/close wiring ties into a brown and white cable with some disc thing. I need to get a good pic and add to this post.

The 10a fuse is for the fuel pump. It was suggested to find a wiring problem related to this component.

Has anyone dealt with this and could offer advice?

Of course, now that I look at this pic more, the other fuses are different...or the 10a is different! ha! Either way, the first one looks blown too on the top! I'll see what local auto parts dealer has as far as these diff (BMW) style fuses go. Maybe one tripped the other?

Pic was attached sidways!

The fuses themselves are the same, don't fuss over that, they just look a little different due to the plastic case. Commonly available anywhere.
10 amps is correct for the fuel pump; from your description I don't think that one failure triggered another. Fuses are easy to check for continuity if you pull it, or just verify voltage on both sides (on those that have a little exposed metal at both ends).
The pump may be dying - or you may have a very clogged filter or screen, causing it to get hotter than it should.
ALSO - On the same circuit are the O2 sensor and the fuel injectors (green wires with a white runner), so look at those runs very closely too, looking for burns or damaged insulation. You can also unplug them individually to try eliminating a high current draw, though the bike won't run well with the O2 sensor disconnected, and probably won't run at all with an injector disconnected.

By "first" fuse, you're referring to the one closest to the Left (clutch) side of the bike? Never hurts to check 'em, but that one is involved with the ABS, windshield, and a few other things, so if it was blown, you'd have a few more issues.

The "disc thing" is probably just another style of crimp connection.

For jollies, I cropped and expanded the view of Fuse #1 - hard to tell if it's really blown, kinda looks like it tho...

The brown white wire is the turn signal cancel wire which get grounded when you depress the cancel button.
Most likely feeding the garage door opener circuit.
The disc thing is a jellybean used to tap into the wire

You should temporarily remove the fuel pump fuse and put an DC ammeter in place of it and monitor what the fuel pump draws.
The running current is typically 7-8 amps
When the fuel filter starts to clog, the pump works harder and draws more current.
A worn pump ready to fail can also draw more current.

You may also have an intermittent short - that would be more difficult to troubleshoot.

BLEEDNATE said:

It was over 100 degrees in slower (albeit and unfortunately normal) bumper to bumper traffic inching along the "easiest" way home....which is normall 65mph. The other route has lights and is max 55mph...but is an option I should try until they fix the roads in East El Paso...

Click to expand...

I feel for you dealing with that traffic, I’m making trips from Cloudcroft to Del Sol Med Center for my son and the construction makes it a nightmare. Can’t imagine sitting in 100°+ temps in that traffic on an air-cooled anything. It was 104° last week when we were there.

Fuse

Hey, it just occurred to me last night (and kick me repeatedly for not spotting it earlier!) -
Fuse #1 is wrong - unless there's some change or variation in the automotive standard:
A pink or red fuse is 4 amps ... but #1 is supposed to be 15 amps, which is blue.
So yeah, it's probably blown...

Wonder if it matters what flavor jellybean...

Pauls1150 said:

Hey, it just occurred to me last night (and kick me repeatedly for not spotting it earlier!) -
Fuse #1 is wrong - unless there's some change or variation in the automotive standard:
A pink or red fuse is 4 amps ... but #1 is supposed to be 15 amps, which is blue.
So yeah, it's probably blown...

Wonder if it matters what flavor jellybean...

Click to expand...

Pink is 4 amps, but Red is 10. (Hint: It's the only one labeled in the picture.)

Thanks for that clarification! And yeah, #1 is the wrong fuse, it shouldn't be pink...

Read the number, don't go by just the colour.

I have seen Chinesium ones the wrong colour.

GSAddict said:

Read the number, don't go by just the colour.

I have seen Chinesium ones the wrong colour.

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Yes, but if they can't even get the color right why should I think they got the fusible element correct?

Correction!

Just got back in from the shop - Had a look at my '04 1150RT: the #1 fuse IS pink.
Nothing is blown and everything works.

This is an example of how using an older diagram (for the 1100, in this case) will create more issues than it solves...

PGlaves said:

Yes, but if they can't even get the color right why should I think they got the fusible element correct?

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Precisely!

Thanks all for tips with fuses.

Anyone have an easy way to drain the fuel?

GSAddict said:

You should temporarily remove the fuel pump fuse and put an DC ammeter in place of it and monitor what the fuel pump draws.
The running current is typically 7-8 amps
When the fuel filter starts to clog, the pump works harder and draws more current.
A worn pump ready to fail can also draw more current.

Click to expand...

Can you please provide more info on the "DC ammeter?" Is that merely using a meter and placing the red and black tips in the locations where the fuse prongs would go?

BLEEDNATE said:

Can you please provide more info on the "DC ammeter?" Is that merely using a meter and placing the red and black tips in the locations where the fuse prongs would go?

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A typical VOM (volt ohm meter) may have an amps setting. Often this setting requires a porbe to be plugged in to a different socket on the meter. Sometimes not. Many VOM don't have the capacity to measure more than miliamps. Some will actually measure much more. I have one that measures up to 10 amps. This would be a bare minimum to test a fuel pump. A dedicated DC ammeter might be a better choice.

To measure amps the current passes through the meter instrument. So yes, with a proper meter set to measure amps, with the fuse out, you attach one probe to each side of the fuse holder.

PGlaves said:

A typical VOM (volt ohm meter) may have an amps setting. Often this setting requires a porbe to be plugged in to a different socket on the meter. Sometimes not. Many VOM don't have the capacity to measure more than miliamps. Some will actually measure much more. I have one that measures up to 10 amps. This would be a bare minimum to test a fuel pump. A dedicated DC ammeter might be a better choice.

To measure amps the current passes through the meter instrument. So yes, with a proper meter set to measure amps, with the fuse out, you attach one probe to each side of the fuse holder.

Click to expand...

OK Thanks! I'll try this before I install the new pump, filter, and accouterments the kit came with.

Someone in "facebook land" mentioned his issue was with the side-stand sensor wiring. I'll see if I can check that out also.

BLEEDNATE said:

Can you please provide more info on the "DC ammeter?" Is that merely using a meter and placing the red and black tips in the locations where the fuse prongs would go?

Click to expand...

Welcome to the forum!
Meters that have a DC amp reading function are on the “rare” side due to them being rather expensive. The smaller meters that will do a fair job on milliamperes have a tough time as the amperage increases.
If you try a meter, it will be good to see if it has a fuse protecting the meter.
Good luck.
Gary

If you're blowing a 10 amp fuse in the bike then there is a good chance that if your meter has a 10 amp maximum capacity that it is protected by an internal 10 amp fuse which will blow when you try to measure the current.

Most Excellent Point there! Or if Murphy's Law strikes, the meter will blow first to protect the fuse...