Old fluids - cold now or warm later

beemerphile said:

Not sure what the muffler clamp has to do with final drive oil change, but WD is not a penetrating lube. Try Kroil or PB Blaster instead.

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Not sure? I can see that with multiple questions on why/how. Ya don't own a 2008 RT do you? Loosen nut/clamp to swing muffler out so you can remove rear wheel. Then you can access the fill hole for final drive fluid. When there's ice on the road and you prefer not to go out just for some penatrating oil...you use what's on hand. Which by the way maybe inferior in comparison, but the product labeling speaks for itself....better than butter.

We recently got the results back from spectrometer and FTIR (used oil analysis) analysis of the difference from hot drains versus cold drains.

Practically, there was no difference.

We also used Ferrography. Absolute difference in suspended wear particles hot versus cold. The cold analysis would have us tear down everything from an engine to the turbonater valve. The cold flagged about 1% for further investigation.

After this exercise, I am convinced that the hot/cold drain choice is not worth the time to discuss. Either is a valid choice. Hot, drains faster, BFD. Cold, BFD but while it's draining, change the filter, grease what is needed, all good

Motodan said:

Not sure? I can see that with multiple questions on why/how. Ya don't own a 2008 RT do you? Loosen nut/clamp to swing muffler out so you can remove rear wheel. Then you can access the fill hole for final drive fluid. When there's ice on the road and you prefer not to go out just for some penatrating oil...you use what's on hand. Which by the way maybe inferior in comparison, but the product labeling speaks for itself....better than butter.

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You are right that I don't own an RT and did not know the muffler was in the way of a lube change. As far as the WD40 label saying it will loosen rusted bolts, how did it work? If you want something that works significantly better, try Kroil (or even PB Blaster). They will penetrate into much tighter gaps. WD-40 is a handy do-all substance. Sometimes it is sufficient to loosen parts and sometimes it is sufficient to lubricate. Some people even say it will relieve arthritic joints, but they know better than to put that on the label. But it was designed as a water displacer. That is what WD stands for in the name. It is VERY good at that. But loosening stuck parts is all that Kroil was developed to do and it does it VERY well.

http://www.kanolabs.com/files/researchReport3.pdf

Once you get the muffler loose take the clamp completely off; clean it up; and apply copper based anti-sieze to the threads as you reassemble. Then next time you won't need penetrating oil to pull your wheel/tire - maybe beside the road.

PGlaves said:

Once you get the muffler loose take the clamp completely off; clean it up; and apply copper based anti-sieze to the threads as you reassemble. Then next time you won't need penetrating oil to pull your wheel/tire - maybe beside the road.

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Thanks Paul. And reporting far to the north (of you)...STILL ice on the roads!

dieselyoda said:

We recently got the results back from spectrometer and FTIR (used oil analysis) analysis of the difference from hot drains versus cold drains.

Practically, there was no difference.

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Very informative.

UPDATE

Don't know if WD had any impact, but nut came loose on clamp bolt. All cleaned up awaiting anti-seize for clamp nut/bolt tomorrow. Got muffler cleaned up, took wheel off, removed filler plug and drained FD. BUT WHAT'S THIS???!!!

Darn it....that's fresh lube coming out. Holy Cow! Dealer said they hadn't changed it and no known service records since August 2014. Well, not a total waste good winter project time and assurance fluids are fresh.