General question on lube drain. Does draining transmission or final drive lube when cold, like 50 degrees, result in a satisfactory fluid change? In other words, is it better to let three year old fluid sit till warmer weather when bike can be ridden to warm up fluids...or better to remove (asap) it cold and put new fluids in?
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Old fluids - cold now or warm later
- Thread starter motodan
- Start date
beemerphile
New member
It is not just the flow improvement, which is significant, but the suspension of contaminants and evaporation of moisture that the hot drain provides. I'd wait until I could do a warm-up ride.
My "theory" is that when something has been sitting, all the fluid is at the low spot (cold) and a drain takes much longer. Sometimes if the drained lube looks "iffy", i will run some kerosene through the fill and out the drain and watch for clarity.
If it's warm- or warmed up, the lube is dispersed and some will "cling" for some time to the innards slowing a "complete" quick drain.
In the long run.....it probably doesn't matter much. It's what makes you feel best about your work.
OM
If it's warm- or warmed up, the lube is dispersed and some will "cling" for some time to the innards slowing a "complete" quick drain.
In the long run.....it probably doesn't matter much. It's what makes you feel best about your work.
OM
beemerphile
New member
Three messages with four different solutions. OM gets credit for two with "do B or do either". All we need is someone to opine that "lube is expensive, do neither" and we will have the complete set of possible responses.
riderr1150gsadv
Well-known member
Here's another solution.. Heat up the oil pan with a heat gun and then drain the oil..
Just don't melt other parts!
Just don't melt other parts!In my opinion the best option is to replace fluids after having ridden the bike for a while so that it is at operating temperature. It is also best to change the fluids at least annually, more often as circumstances warrant (e.g., mileage, storage conditions with potential accumulation of water condensation, etc.).
This might not be possible in all circumstances (i.e., bad weather). In such instances I'd remove the drain plugs and allow oil to drain thoroughly (overnight would be good). Installing the drain plugs and adding a bit of kero then draining would help remove additional sludge - thorough draining is still suggested.
If I had a bike that had been sitting for a very long time (e.g., newly acquired barn find), I would replace the fluids before riding the bike. It might even be worthwhile to replace the fluids again after a short interval. YMMV
This might not be possible in all circumstances (i.e., bad weather). In such instances I'd remove the drain plugs and allow oil to drain thoroughly (overnight would be good). Installing the drain plugs and adding a bit of kero then draining would help remove additional sludge - thorough draining is still suggested.
If I had a bike that had been sitting for a very long time (e.g., newly acquired barn find), I would replace the fluids before riding the bike. It might even be worthwhile to replace the fluids again after a short interval. YMMV
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Your text didn't show...are we to assume you're endorsing popcorn oil as lube of choice?
There can never be too many solutions.
akbeemer
SURVIVOR
Drain the gear box and FD oil while cold.
Heat fresh oil by placing the containers in very hot water. Ensure the cap is loosened release pressure. Keep cap out of water.
Place hot oil in the transmission and FD. Rotate the rear wheel to circulate the FD oil. If you are energetic you can remove a plug from each jug, place the gear selector in 6th gear and rotate the rear wheel.
Drain both the transmission and FD.
Refill them both with appropriate oils.
I have not ever done this and likely will never do it, but it’s an idea.
Heat fresh oil by placing the containers in very hot water. Ensure the cap is loosened release pressure. Keep cap out of water.
Place hot oil in the transmission and FD. Rotate the rear wheel to circulate the FD oil. If you are energetic you can remove a plug from each jug, place the gear selector in 6th gear and rotate the rear wheel.
Drain both the transmission and FD.
Refill them both with appropriate oils.
I have not ever done this and likely will never do it, but it’s an idea.
Why would you preheat the new oil??? Are you suggesting draining and refilling TWICE? Sounds like a huge waste of time and oil.
The reason for draining the old oil when it is hot is that you get a more complete drain. If you are concerned about a complete drain, wait until you can go for a quick ride (ie.don't schedule your maintenance for the dead of winter). Changing it cold in 50 degree weather should be fine if the oils have been kept clean by regular changes.
If it is one of the models that has a history of final drive issues, I'd be more concerned with a complete drain AND a close examination of the old oil for any metal particles in the oil.
The reason for draining the old oil when it is hot is that you get a more complete drain. If you are concerned about a complete drain, wait until you can go for a quick ride (ie.don't schedule your maintenance for the dead of winter). Changing it cold in 50 degree weather should be fine if the oils have been kept clean by regular changes.
If it is one of the models that has a history of final drive issues, I'd be more concerned with a complete drain AND a close examination of the old oil for any metal particles in the oil.
Going with Paul's "lube is cheap" option. Changed trans lube cold...it didn't look as bad as I thought it might. When bike can be ridden in weeks or months may change again after good warm up. Will do final drive as soon as I can break muffler clamp nut loose, rusted tight right now. My arm force wouldn't break it. Sprayed with WD, will try later and perhaps go to leg kick force. I wouldn't be doing this but the bike is new to me and service records lacking...last recorded service was 6,000 miles in 2014 and only ridden 1,800 miles since then. I feel better knowing what was in there and what will be in there.
Check...was done last week. Also oil/filter, air filter and cleaning/polishing....great winter project.
akbeemer
SURVIVOR
Why would you preheat the new oil??? Are you suggesting draining and refilling TWICE? Sounds like a huge waste of time and oil.
The reason for draining the old oil when it is hot is that you get a more complete drain. If you are concerned about a complete drain, wait until you can go for a quick ride (ie.don't schedule your maintenance for the dead of winter). Changing it cold in 50 degree weather should be fine if the oils have been kept clean by regular changes.
If it is one of the models that has a history of final drive issues, I'd be more concerned with a complete drain AND a close examination of the old oil for any metal particles in the oil.
Changing the oil while cold is a condition presented by motodan, the OP. One issue of draining the oil cold is that contaminates are no longer in suspension and remain in the FD as sludge. Putting hot oil in there is a step taken in hopes of flushing any sludge out. Will it work.....? Don’t know, but better than a cold change alone.
What model is it that requires the tranny and final drive oil to be on its third supply of oil in only 7,800 miles???
An RT that's close to 10 years old with only 7,911 miles and only 1,800 in the last 3 1/2 years since 6,000 mile service. Changing fluids every 42 months isn't overkill...is it? LOL!
beemerphile
New member
Not sure what the muffler clamp has to do with final drive oil change, but WD is not a penetrating lube. Try Kroil or PB Blaster instead.
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