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1977 BMW R100RS Restore Project
- Thread starter brook.reams
- Start date
brook.reams
B Reams
Hi Swall,
There is a section in the write-up that I linked with the details of how I clean and refinish carburetors.
I hope it's helpful.
Best.
Brook Reams
brook.reams
B Reams
1977 R100RS Project: Replace & Preload Wheel Bearings
There must be 10,000 words written about this procedure and more than one technique to determine if the preload is correct. For that reason, I've put off setting the preload for many years and had a shop or Woody's Wheel Works do it. But on this project, working on the wheel bearings was one of the projects I had on my "Learn New Skills" list, so, now's the time.
You can read about how I did this work here:
This bike does not have the original spoke wheels. Instead it has the cast aluminum alloy "snowflake" wheels that came latter. The rear snowflake has a drum brake while later versions of the snowflake rear wheel have a rear disk brake on the left side.
<a title=""10 Foot" View" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/25755040663/in/album-72157666863178492/"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/2/1520/25755040663_beaa7d116d_z.jpg" alt=""10 Foot" View Showing Later Snowflake Wheels Installed" width="640" height="480" /></a>
"10 Foot" View Showing Later Snowflake Wheels Installed
It seems that airhead wheels are a component that BMW changed a lot over the life of the airhead bikes. Further, parts fiche diagrams are notoriously confusing and frequently show incorrect parts. As I tried to get solid information about my wheels, one sage, long time wrench advised me to just inspect the parts that are there and replace what's worn.
The snowflake drum rear wheels were only available with an aluminum hub in 1978. Later versions and those with the rear disk brake had a steel sleeve in the hub that the rear wheel bearing outer races fit into. This is an improvement as the aluminum hub to steel race interference fit was prone to allowing the race to spin in the aluminum hub which leads to a mess not to mention it can lock up the rear of the bike if the bearing seizes to the axle.
My drum snowflake rear hub has the steel sleeve as shown below. The inner edge of the hub is magnetic and you can see the line between the inner sleeve and the outer aluminum of the hub.
<a title="Rear Wheel Hub Inner Steel Insert" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/32374264876/in/album-72157677347336402/"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/695/32374264876_3462784a10_z.jpg" alt="Rear Wheel Hub Has an Inner Steel Sleeve" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Rear Wheel Hub Has an Inner Steel Sleeve
I used the spring scale method to determine the preload. This is a simple technique that is precise enough.
<a title="Pull Gauge and String Wrapped on Axle Spacer Tube" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/33095794136/in/album-72157677347336402/"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3756/33095794136_cc89c77396_z.jpg" alt="Pull Gauge and String Wrapped on Axle Spacer Tube" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Pull Gauge and String Wrapped on Axle Spacer Tube
I had the wheels powder coated as well. Here they are with the new wheel bearings installed and adjusted.
<a title="Rear Wheel Ready To Roll" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/32440293023/in/album-72157677347336402/"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3812/32440293023_e24983c1bd_z.jpg" alt="Rear Wheel Ready To Roll" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Rear Wheel Ready To Roll
<a title="Front Wheel Ready to Roll" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/32440292483/in/album-72157677347336402/"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3896/32440292483_34b4fc2629_z.jpg" alt="Front Wheel Ready to Roll" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Front Wheel Ready to Roll
There must be 10,000 words written about this procedure and more than one technique to determine if the preload is correct. For that reason, I've put off setting the preload for many years and had a shop or Woody's Wheel Works do it. But on this project, working on the wheel bearings was one of the projects I had on my "Learn New Skills" list, so, now's the time.
You can read about how I did this work here:
This bike does not have the original spoke wheels. Instead it has the cast aluminum alloy "snowflake" wheels that came latter. The rear snowflake has a drum brake while later versions of the snowflake rear wheel have a rear disk brake on the left side.
<a title=""10 Foot" View" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/25755040663/in/album-72157666863178492/"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/2/1520/25755040663_beaa7d116d_z.jpg" alt=""10 Foot" View Showing Later Snowflake Wheels Installed" width="640" height="480" /></a>
"10 Foot" View Showing Later Snowflake Wheels Installed
It seems that airhead wheels are a component that BMW changed a lot over the life of the airhead bikes. Further, parts fiche diagrams are notoriously confusing and frequently show incorrect parts. As I tried to get solid information about my wheels, one sage, long time wrench advised me to just inspect the parts that are there and replace what's worn.
The snowflake drum rear wheels were only available with an aluminum hub in 1978. Later versions and those with the rear disk brake had a steel sleeve in the hub that the rear wheel bearing outer races fit into. This is an improvement as the aluminum hub to steel race interference fit was prone to allowing the race to spin in the aluminum hub which leads to a mess not to mention it can lock up the rear of the bike if the bearing seizes to the axle.
My drum snowflake rear hub has the steel sleeve as shown below. The inner edge of the hub is magnetic and you can see the line between the inner sleeve and the outer aluminum of the hub.
<a title="Rear Wheel Hub Inner Steel Insert" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/32374264876/in/album-72157677347336402/"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/695/32374264876_3462784a10_z.jpg" alt="Rear Wheel Hub Has an Inner Steel Sleeve" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Rear Wheel Hub Has an Inner Steel Sleeve
I used the spring scale method to determine the preload. This is a simple technique that is precise enough.
<a title="Pull Gauge and String Wrapped on Axle Spacer Tube" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/33095794136/in/album-72157677347336402/"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3756/33095794136_cc89c77396_z.jpg" alt="Pull Gauge and String Wrapped on Axle Spacer Tube" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Pull Gauge and String Wrapped on Axle Spacer Tube
I had the wheels powder coated as well. Here they are with the new wheel bearings installed and adjusted.
<a title="Rear Wheel Ready To Roll" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/32440293023/in/album-72157677347336402/"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3812/32440293023_e24983c1bd_z.jpg" alt="Rear Wheel Ready To Roll" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Rear Wheel Ready To Roll
<a title="Front Wheel Ready to Roll" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/32440292483/in/album-72157677347336402/"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3896/32440292483_34b4fc2629_z.jpg" alt="Front Wheel Ready to Roll" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Front Wheel Ready to Roll
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30064
Mike V. #30064
Brook,
Well done, you are to be commended again for a well thought out documented procedure to a job a lot have considered too technical to accomplish. With some study, self-intuition and research this job is not that difficult. A picture is worth a thousand words, literally.
I think you've found out on your own once you get your hands on this job along with some focus, preparation and appropriate tools ... it all makes perfect sense.
Thanks again - it's been my experience; the time and effort in preparing the tutorial and instructions is much more labor intensive, difficult and complicated than the job itself. Another opportunity to thank you, Snowbum and others who take the time and effort to peck away at the keyboard towards shared knowledge and experience.
Respectfully,
Mike Valenti
Well done, you are to be commended again for a well thought out documented procedure to a job a lot have considered too technical to accomplish. With some study, self-intuition and research this job is not that difficult. A picture is worth a thousand words, literally.
I think you've found out on your own once you get your hands on this job along with some focus, preparation and appropriate tools ... it all makes perfect sense.
Thanks again - it's been my experience; the time and effort in preparing the tutorial and instructions is much more labor intensive, difficult and complicated than the job itself. Another opportunity to thank you, Snowbum and others who take the time and effort to peck away at the keyboard towards shared knowledge and experience.
Respectfully,
Mike Valenti
brook.reams
B Reams
From Bing bling to Snowflake bling.
The fun just keeps "rolling" on doesn't it Barry
Best.
Brook
brook.reams
B Reams
Mike,
I completely agree with you on the fear and trepidation that accompanies this bit of work. My hope is to show that at least with the steel sleeve snowflake wheels, this is pretty straight forward since removing the outer bearing race in the steel sleeve is simple.
Best.
Brook.
30064
Mike V. #30064
BUT ... keep in mind - the only difference with the all aluminum Snowflake drum rear wheel is the removal and re-installation of the outer bearing races "with" heat. It's actually kinda fun and exciting in a sick way to see the assembled and frozen bearing stack fall right into place under it's own weight into the heated aluminum wheel hub. The only difficulty is not taking the time to understand how the assembly works and damaging parts or personal safety due to haste.
-Mike V.
I've got 2 R100's back in my storage department. '82 R100T or standard and a '83 R100 that started life as a RT escort bike. Both with snowflakes, both with twin disk in front and rear drums. When I get a little time I'll remove the rear wheels and check the rear sleeves to see if the're steel. A little mystery sleuthing.
PAS -
I'm not sure I follow. Do you still have the original snowflake on your '81 or were they replaced? It is my understanding that the original rims, the ones that were recalled, are cast aluminum. The recall service bulletin says "cast alloy" which to me doesn't indicate they are iron...I could be wrong but alloy to me suggests other than iron like aluminum, titanium, etc....I could easily be wrong on that.
As for replacements, I thought they were still the same cast alloy but just with the stiffeners included in the casting. I can see what the fiche listing says, but somehow that doesn't add up.
I'm not sure I follow. Do you still have the original snowflake on your '81 or were they replaced? It is my understanding that the original rims, the ones that were recalled, are cast aluminum. The recall service bulletin says "cast alloy" which to me doesn't indicate they are iron...I could be wrong but alloy to me suggests other than iron like aluminum, titanium, etc....I could easily be wrong on that.
As for replacements, I thought they were still the same cast alloy but just with the stiffeners included in the casting. I can see what the fiche listing says, but somehow that doesn't add up.
brook.reams
B Reams
I doubt that is really the case. Try a magnet on your rims. If it sticks, you have cast iron rims. I believe there is a typo in MAX BMW's fiche entries, and it's not the only one. You will notice that succeeding fiche pages omit the word "iron".
You have cast alloy aluminum rims as BMW did not take a giant step backward in the 1978 when they introduced the cast rims. I've lifted cast iron rims used on early 1960's BSA and Triumph bikes. They weigh A BUNCH, as in 50 Lbs or so. This increases unsprung weight with negative effects on having a compliant suspension. My cast alloy BMW rims are feather light in comparison.
I hope this helps.
Best.
Brook Reams.
brook.reams
B Reams
1977 R100RS Project: Refinish & Rebuild Master Cylinder and Calipers
I refinished and rebuilt the master cylinder and calipers. You can read about how I did the work here:
This bike had the blue front calipers and the ATE front disk brakes with the drum rear leading and trailing shoe brakes. Originally, the wheels were wire spoke but a previous owner upgraded them to the later snowflake wheels.
<a title=""10 Foot" View" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/25755040663/in/album-72157666863178492/"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/2/1520/25755040663_beaa7d116d_z.jpg" alt="As Purchased with Later Snowflake Wheels" width="640" height="480" /></a>
As Purchased with Later Snowflake Wheels
<a title="Exterior Fading" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/29975501693/in/album-72157675789624605/"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5577/29975501693_0d6163e0e2_z.jpg" alt="Calipers Showing Anodized Blue Fading" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Blue Anodizing on Calipers Has*Faded
I rebuilt the two front calipers, the master cylinder and replaced the rear brake shoes. The blue anodized calipers had faded so I had them anodized, but this was a dismal failure. Either the shop who did the work botched it or it's not so easy to anodize old parts. I found a paint that replicates blue anodizing. I stripped the botched anodizing and painted them. I like the result.
I replaced the lower steel brake line that goes between the caliper and the union that is inserted into the lower front fairing with stainless steel lines from <a href="http://www.rockypointcycle.com/c-bmw7_stainless_brakes.html" target="_blank">Rocky Point Cycle</a>. I replaced the rubber lines with braided steel lines with a translucent blue cover and chrome unions from <a href="https://spieglerusa.com/brakes/brake-lines-accessories-tools/cycle-brake-line-kits/bmw-r-100-rs-rear-brake-line-kit-111.htm" target="_blank">Spiegler Performance Parts</a>.
Here is the finished product. When the fairing comes back from the paint shop (soon, real soon now ) I'll connect the upper steel lines to the braided steel line through the bushing in the top center fairing panel.
<a title="Calipers Installed" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/33344991482/in/album-72157675789624605/"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3934/33344991482_52786f81aa_z.jpg" alt="Refinished and Rebuilt Calipers Installed in Fork Lowers" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Refinished and Rebuilt Calipers Installed in Fork Lowers
<a title="Speigler Braided Steel & Rocky Point Cycle Stainless Aluminum Caliper Line" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/33479600611/in/album-72157675789624605/"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2928/33479600611_fc658c95a0_z.jpg" alt="Speigler Braided Steel & Rocky Point Cycle Stainless Steel Caliper Line" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Speigler Braided Steel & Rocky Point Cycle Stainless Steel Caliper Line
<a title="Master Cylinder Mounted on Spine Tube" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/32772912504/in/album-72157675789624605/"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2921/32772912504_797faccf25_z.jpg" alt="Refinished & Rebuilt Master Cylinder Mounted on Spine Tube" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Refinished & Rebuilt Master Cylinder Mounted on Spine Tube
I refinished and rebuilt the master cylinder and calipers. You can read about how I did the work here:
This bike had the blue front calipers and the ATE front disk brakes with the drum rear leading and trailing shoe brakes. Originally, the wheels were wire spoke but a previous owner upgraded them to the later snowflake wheels.
<a title=""10 Foot" View" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/25755040663/in/album-72157666863178492/"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/2/1520/25755040663_beaa7d116d_z.jpg" alt="As Purchased with Later Snowflake Wheels" width="640" height="480" /></a>
As Purchased with Later Snowflake Wheels
<a title="Exterior Fading" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/29975501693/in/album-72157675789624605/"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5577/29975501693_0d6163e0e2_z.jpg" alt="Calipers Showing Anodized Blue Fading" width="640" height="426" /></a>
Blue Anodizing on Calipers Has*Faded
I rebuilt the two front calipers, the master cylinder and replaced the rear brake shoes. The blue anodized calipers had faded so I had them anodized, but this was a dismal failure. Either the shop who did the work botched it or it's not so easy to anodize old parts. I found a paint that replicates blue anodizing. I stripped the botched anodizing and painted them. I like the result.
I replaced the lower steel brake line that goes between the caliper and the union that is inserted into the lower front fairing with stainless steel lines from <a href="http://www.rockypointcycle.com/c-bmw7_stainless_brakes.html" target="_blank">Rocky Point Cycle</a>. I replaced the rubber lines with braided steel lines with a translucent blue cover and chrome unions from <a href="https://spieglerusa.com/brakes/brake-lines-accessories-tools/cycle-brake-line-kits/bmw-r-100-rs-rear-brake-line-kit-111.htm" target="_blank">Spiegler Performance Parts</a>.
Here is the finished product. When the fairing comes back from the paint shop (soon, real soon now
) I'll connect the upper steel lines to the braided steel line through the bushing in the top center fairing panel.<a title="Calipers Installed" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/33344991482/in/album-72157675789624605/"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3934/33344991482_52786f81aa_z.jpg" alt="Refinished and Rebuilt Calipers Installed in Fork Lowers" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Refinished and Rebuilt Calipers Installed in Fork Lowers
<a title="Speigler Braided Steel & Rocky Point Cycle Stainless Aluminum Caliper Line" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/33479600611/in/album-72157675789624605/"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2928/33479600611_fc658c95a0_z.jpg" alt="Speigler Braided Steel & Rocky Point Cycle Stainless Steel Caliper Line" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Speigler Braided Steel & Rocky Point Cycle Stainless Steel Caliper Line
<a title="Master Cylinder Mounted on Spine Tube" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/32772912504/in/album-72157675789624605/"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2921/32772912504_797faccf25_z.jpg" alt="Refinished & Rebuilt Master Cylinder Mounted on Spine Tube" width="640" height="480" /></a>
Refinished & Rebuilt Master Cylinder Mounted on Spine Tube
1974 rebuild - exhaust nut wrench loan request
I am in the Denver area. Noticed this rebuild project thread and tossing in a loan request for an exhaust nut wrench.
As far as I know the 74 engine has never been rebuilt (leaks oil from push rods, oil pan, lacks power).
Before buying the exhaust wrench, I thought I would ask for a loaner.
I am thinking I will have to cut off the exhaust nuts and the purchase would be a waste.
thanks in advance
mike
I am in the Denver area. Noticed this rebuild project thread and tossing in a loan request for an exhaust nut wrench.
As far as I know the 74 engine has never been rebuilt (leaks oil from push rods, oil pan, lacks power).
Before buying the exhaust wrench, I thought I would ask for a loaner.
I am thinking I will have to cut off the exhaust nuts and the purchase would be a waste.
thanks in advance
mike
Exhaust wrench loan
Join the Airheads club at www,airheads.org There is a fairly strong strong contingent in the Denver and one of the finest airhead gurus resides in Colorado Springs, and a long time Airhead.
Friedle
ABC BoD
Join the Airheads club at www,airheads.org There is a fairly strong strong contingent in the Denver and one of the finest airhead gurus resides in Colorado Springs, and a long time Airhead.
Friedle
ABC BoD
radar41
Beemerphan
Exhaust Wrench
What Michael said! Plus we have a scheduled Airhead "Tech" day in Denver April 22, Come down, we can do it!!
Info here: https://www.meetup.com/Airheads-Bee...t_table_id=251535738&comment_table_name=reply
What Michael said! Plus we have a scheduled Airhead "Tech" day in Denver April 22, Come down, we can do it!!
Info here: https://www.meetup.com/Airheads-Bee...t_table_id=251535738&comment_table_name=reply
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