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Oil question
- Thread starter bswag
- Start date
BMARC153920
New member
Why not just find ANY motorcycle dealer or shop and get oil you know won't harm the clutch. Nearly every town has a bike dealer or bike shop of some sort where you can grab a few quarts of Motorcycle specific oil.
Sent from my KFSAWA using Tapatalk
Sent from my KFSAWA using Tapatalk
ncpbmw1953
Member
This oil is somewhat common in auto parts stores and meets the JASO MA specification (friction requirement for wet clutch):
Valvoline 4-Stroke Synthetic Motor Oil 10W-40 and 20W-50
lee
Debbie's Servant
Our trip was a long time ago, 1988, and we saw very few bike shops in the Yukon and Alaska. I'm guessing things have not changed that much.
BMARC153920
New member
akbeemer
SURVIVOR
You should be able to find an oil that meets the specifications provided in your owner's manual at most auto parts stores. Some will even carry motorcycle specific oils. You should avoid any oil that is labeled as energy conserving as those have additives that may cause clutch slippage. If you are near a Walmart they will probably have motorcycle specific oils and you can buy a foil pan to catch the oil and then turn it in at their service department. There are Walmarts in Anchorage, near Palmer and in Fairbanks. Best to confirm they will take your oil before draining. There are few motorcycle dealers outside of the Los Anchorage, Mat-Su and Fairbanks areas and they are all very busy in the summer. If you go to the BMW dealers in Anchorage or Fairbanks for a routine service you will be put at the end of the queue behind bikes that need major repairs; this can happen even if you have an appointment. In Fairbanks there are a couple of independent shops that used to allow folks to change their own oil (Adventure Cycle Works and Thunder Road). Visit the Alaska sub-forum on ADV Rider (http://advrider.com/index.php?forums/alaska.68/) and you will probably find people who will open their shop or garage to you to work in.
kaileybutt
Member
Oil in Alaska
If you've got a route planned, perhaps UPS an oil change kit to an anticipated location and you'll be set - largerish town that may have some type of quick lube place to dispose of the used oil & filter.
If you've got a route planned, perhaps UPS an oil change kit to an anticipated location and you'll be set - largerish town that may have some type of quick lube place to dispose of the used oil & filter.
Alaska oil change
When I made the trip to Alaska in 2007 I changed oil two times both were at Harley dealers who let me bring the bike in and change the oil myself and allowed me to dump the oil in their used oil drum. They are happy to do business with GS BMW owners because of the high volume of GS bikes making the trip. They stock tires and other service parts for the GS. I bought the Harley 20-50 oil and had packed two filter. I'd suggest calling the HD dealers along the route to Alaska to confirm the program is still the same.
When I made the trip to Alaska in 2007 I changed oil two times both were at Harley dealers who let me bring the bike in and change the oil myself and allowed me to dump the oil in their used oil drum. They are happy to do business with GS BMW owners because of the high volume of GS bikes making the trip. They stock tires and other service parts for the GS. I bought the Harley 20-50 oil and had packed two filter. I'd suggest calling the HD dealers along the route to Alaska to confirm the program is still the same.
akbeemer
SURVIVOR
The HD dealer in Fairbanks is also the BMW dealer. Don't think they will allow DIY oil changes. The house of Harley in Anchorage may do so. They do have free camping at their shop.
gr8ridn2
Tourmeister
I have always changed oil before a trip and and have not changed the oil until home. After many 8000 mile trips I have never experienced any excessive wear or harm to any of my motorcycles. This includes three different rides to AK and several cross country rides.
My thinking is a long distance ride where the bike will only sit overnight will involve about 20 cold starts. Any condensation from cooling cycles overnight will be readily be burned off during the next day's ride. Long distance days are not hard on quality oil. Commuting and periods of non use are harder on oil and the additives. When I get home the oil and filter are changed and I resume the service schedule to the next mileage point. That means if I go 8000 miles on the same oil I will change again at 4000 miles. This puts me back at the 6/12K mile service interval and allows that 4000 mile use to better flush any impurities from the engine. This also keeps the other service items on track like valve checks, spark plugs, air filter ETC.
Start with good quality oil of the specification for your motorcycle along with a quality filter and you will do less harm than compromising on the road with oil that may not be the specification or quality the manufacturer specify s. The added benefit is you won't be using valuable time searching for specific oil and filter and doing the change while you should be enjoying the ride.
I plan to travel to the Hamburg Rally this year. Looking at my ride plan that will require 8200 miles round trip. Once again I will do the entire ride with one oil change done before the start.
If you are not comfortable with this there is a BMW Motorrad dealer in Anchorage, "The Motorcycle Shop." They can supply the oil and filter required, but you may still have to change the oil yourself. They are very busy during the travel months.
My thinking is a long distance ride where the bike will only sit overnight will involve about 20 cold starts. Any condensation from cooling cycles overnight will be readily be burned off during the next day's ride. Long distance days are not hard on quality oil. Commuting and periods of non use are harder on oil and the additives. When I get home the oil and filter are changed and I resume the service schedule to the next mileage point. That means if I go 8000 miles on the same oil I will change again at 4000 miles. This puts me back at the 6/12K mile service interval and allows that 4000 mile use to better flush any impurities from the engine. This also keeps the other service items on track like valve checks, spark plugs, air filter ETC.
Start with good quality oil of the specification for your motorcycle along with a quality filter and you will do less harm than compromising on the road with oil that may not be the specification or quality the manufacturer specify s. The added benefit is you won't be using valuable time searching for specific oil and filter and doing the change while you should be enjoying the ride.
I plan to travel to the Hamburg Rally this year. Looking at my ride plan that will require 8200 miles round trip. Once again I will do the entire ride with one oil change done before the start.
If you are not comfortable with this there is a BMW Motorrad dealer in Anchorage, "The Motorcycle Shop." They can supply the oil and filter required, but you may still have to change the oil yourself. They are very busy during the travel months.
Can I use a 5w-40 Liqui Moly Oil from Germany?
Okay, another oil question... I recently ordered an online oil and filter change kit for my 2016 BMW R1200RT wethead. When the package arrived, I found that it had the German Liqui Moly synthetic motor oil. Is this one compatible with my wet clutch? Not sure if the 'moly' part of it prohibits it's use. Thanks! Rob.
Okay, another oil question... I recently ordered an online oil and filter change kit for my 2016 BMW R1200RT wethead. When the package arrived, I found that it had the German Liqui Moly synthetic motor oil. Is this one compatible with my wet clutch? Not sure if the 'moly' part of it prohibits it's use. Thanks! Rob.
Liqui Moly is the name of the company. The oil I believe you are referring to https://pim.liqui-moly.de/pidoc/P000261/2592-Motorbike4TSynth5W-40StreetRace-16.0-en.pdf is spec for your bike JASO MA2. I'd use it
Jay
bikerfish1100
New member
another recommendationhere to change oil/fliter before you go, and then when you return. long distance riding is the least demanding upon any oil; racing and frequent stop/go and many cold starts are much more abusive.
bikerfish1100
New member
fwiw- with a combined engine/transmission, i would NOT use a straight automotive oil in my wethead (like Rotella T or others) like I might use in my oilhead or airhead. stick to a top quality m/c oil. I'm using the uber-expensive Advantec during my warranty period, "just in case'.
garyspringr
New member
When you do your own service does it satisfy warranty requirements or do you have to go to an authorized service center? I'm up against a similar situation.
bikerfish1100
New member
as long as you document your service, you're fine. receipts certainly help.
