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1983 R100RS Rebuild Project Journal

STEVENRANKIN said:
Okay Brook, why didn't you do this restore 10 years ago? LOL. I had a R90S I had been restoring on my lift for five years. The last thing I had to do was run the main wire harness and other wiring. That was the straw that broke the camel's back. Glenn at the Beemer Barn now has the bike.

No, I lie, I just had major medical issues and couldn't finish it. But, I did some head scratching as to how the main harness was installed at the time.

Thanks for the update and pictures. Great Job, St.
Click to expand...

Steve,

I've received several notes from folks who wonder how to route the harness. The other puzzle is cable routing and I'll show that when I get that far. :)

Best.
Brook.
 
Appreciate your content!

Hey, I just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to document your processes as I have watch your videos and read your articles as a reference to figure out my first airhead. I know it is a lot of work not only wrenching the bike, but to capture it while you are doing it, and post-processing the video and photos and then writing about it is a feat on it's own. Keep up the good work and know you are helping a lot of people! Thanks again
 
jerko said:
Hey, I just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to document your processes as I have watch your videos and read your articles as a reference to figure out my first airhead. I know it is a lot of work not only wrenching the bike, but to capture it while you are doing it, and post-processing the video and photos and then writing about it is a feat on it's own. Keep up the good work and know you are helping a lot of people! Thanks again
Click to expand...

:thumb
 
jerko said:
Hey, I just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to document your processes as I have watch your videos and read your articles as a reference to figure out my first airhead. I know it is a lot of work not only wrenching the bike, but to capture it while you are doing it, and post-processing the video and photos and then writing about it is a feat on it's own. Keep up the good work and know you are helping a lot of people! Thanks again
Click to expand...

Hi Jerko, Thank you for the kind words. You are correct about the time to do both written and video documentation. If folks who do their own wrenching can use the documentation from the four rebuilds I have done to help them keep their airhead(s) on the road, then I'm pleased. :dance

Best.
Brook Reams.
 
1983 R100RS Transmission Rebuild

This is the second time I have worked on rebuilding an airhead transmission. That should make it clear that I am an amateur, not a professional, when it comes to doing this work. I would not attempt to rebuild a transmission unless I have access to experienced, long time, airhead mechanics. I'm very fortunate to have access to three of them. And, I plan to continue rebuilding transmissions on my own projects, so the considerable investment in tools will get amortized over the future projects.

<span style="color: #0000ff;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>NOTE</strong></span>:</span>
<span style="color: #0000ff;">I would not recommend that you rebuild your transmission unless you have completed multiple bike rebuilds, have invested in precision measurement tools and specialized transmission tools, and expect to rebuild multiple transmissions. The cost and risk are too high if you just plan to do one transmission. I would recommend you have your transmission rebuilt by a reputable builder such as <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><a href="http://www.rubberchickenracinggarage.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tom Cutter at Rubber Chicken Racing Garage</a></span> in Pennsylvania, Matt Parkhouse (hobomatt@aol.com) in Colorado, Bob Clement at Bob's Motorwerks (bmwmontana@aol.com) in Montana, and Bud Proven at The Nickwackett Garage in Vermont.</span>

This transmission has over 83,000 miles on it. That said, it was in good condition when I had the parts inspected by an airhead mechanic. So that's a good thing.

I wrote five documents showing how I do the work.


These are links to the five corresponding video summaries.

This is what I started with:

<a title="Transmission Before A Bath" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49975130703/in/album-72157714594344657/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49975130703_f9b1d7f8e2_c.jpg" alt="Transmission Before" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Transmission Before

<a title="Transmission Before A Bath" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49975910577/in/album-72157714594344657/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49975910577_a5bf3cedd6_c.jpg" alt="Transmission Before" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Transmission Before

<a title="Transmission Before A Bath" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/49975910542/in/album-72157714594344657/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49975910542_c323ed33df_c.jpg" alt="Transmission Before" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Transmission Before

72157714594344657/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49975130603_1187a4fa19_c.jpg" alt="Transmission Before" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Transmission Before

And this is what things looked like during disassembly.

<a title="Getting Ready To Assemble Transmission-Parts Laid Out In Order Of Assembly" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50045070576/in/album-72157714858688091/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50045070576_5177c3c2ce_c.jpg" alt="What's Inside The Transmission" width="800" height="450" /></a>
What's Inside The Transmission

<a title="Shift Cam Disassembled" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50098613587/in/album-72157714747624988/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50098613587_ef0d6b620b_c.jpg" alt="Shift Cam Assembly Parts" width="800" height="450" /></a>
Shift Cam Assembly Parts

<a title="Input Shaft Disassembled Except For Roller Bearing Inner Race" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50034703621/in/album-72157714822343342/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50034703621_8bc50ac1eb_c.jpg" alt="Input Shaft Parts" width="800" height="532" /></a>
Input Shaft Parts

<a title="Output Shaft Parts" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50041503741/in/album-72157714821506631/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50041503741_fce94c1620_c.jpg" alt="Output Shaft Parts" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Output Shaft Parts

<a title="Intermediate Shaft Front Bearing Removed" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50034742411/in/album-72157714822343342/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50034742411_f4b001ac32_c.jpg" alt="Intermediate Shaft Front Bearing Removed" width="800" height="532" /></a>
Intermediate Shaft Front Bearing Removed

And this is the final result.

<a title="All Done-Red Tape Means "Needs Attention" As In Gear Lube" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50093704713/in/album-72157714858688091/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50093704713_d8d1860842_c.jpg" alt="All Done-Red Tape Means "Needs Attention" As In Gear Lube" width="800" height="600" /></a>
All Done-Red Tape Means "Needs Attention" As In Gear Lube

<a title="All Done" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50085614987/in/album-72157714858688091/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50085614987_51e90f1f45_c.jpg" alt="All Done" width="800" height="600" /></a>
All Done
 
Last edited:
Cool, Brook! Can you show us in a little more detail the infamous circlip and shaft groove that was eliminated in the ~1985-1994 model gearboxes?
 
20774 said:
OK, had trouble finding it. I searched the page for circlip...you prefer the term lock ring!
Click to expand...

Kurt,

Well, as the videos show, "snap ring", "circlip" and "lock ring" get interchanged, perhaps incorrectly.

I decided later in the production to try and use the words BMW uses in the parts fiche. They use lock ring for the clip that holds the large ball bearing on the front of the output shaft next to 5th gear. The small circular ring under it they call a "snap ring".

Then we get "E-clips", "C-clips", etc. The nomenclature does not always seem consistent. But what would be the fun if everyone agreed on the proper words to describe something. :)

I hope you are staying well.

Best.
Brook.
 
There you go using BMW words! I also get confused when things are called washer, shim, or gasket! :banghead
 
1983 R100RS Install Transmission

I installed the transmission in the frame, mounted it to the engine block, connected it to the drive shaft, assembled the clutch throw-out mechanism, attached the speedometer cable, the neutral switch wiring and the foot shift.


You can read about how I do this work here:
<ul>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/23-bmw-1983-r100rs-install-transmission/">23 BMW 1983 R100RS Install Transmission</a></li>
</ul>
I also made a video summarizing the transmission installation.


<strong>VIDEO: <em><span style="text-decoration: underline;">1983 BMW R100RS Install Transmission</span></em></strong>

Some pictures of the work.

<a title="Needs Gear Lube (Red Tape On Fill Plug)" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50110246671/in/album-72157715090519552/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50110246671_b6287fd3b1_c.jpg" alt="Needs Gear Lube (Red Tape On Fill Plug)" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Needs Gear Lube (Red Tape On Fill Plug)

<a title="Clutch Throw-out Mechanism Parts" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50120714058/in/album-72157715090519552/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50120714058_eb7c9c4682_c.jpg" alt="Clutch Throw-out Mechanism Parts" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Clutch Throw-out Mechanism Parts

<a title="Parts For Connecting Transmission Output Flange To Drive Shaft and Swing Arm" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50124440971/in/album-72157715090519552/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50124440971_94a6a7de82_c.jpg" alt="Parts For Connecting Transmission Output Flange To Drive Shaft and Swing Arm" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Parts For Connecting Transmission Output Flange To Drive Shaft and Swing Arm

[<a title="Rotating Input Shaft In Small Increments To Align Splines With Clutch Splines" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50124493461/in/album-72157715090519552/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50124493461_48b67ef44f_c.jpg" alt="Rotating Input Shaft In Small Increments To Align Splines With Clutch Splines" width="800" height="450" /></a>
Rotating Input Shaft In Small Increments To Align Splines With Clutch Splines

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="800"]reams/50137133083/in/album-72157715090519552/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50137133083_6337c94059_c.jpg" alt="Foot Shift Lever, Linkage and Left Foot Peg Installed" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Foot Shift Lever, Linkage and Left Foot Peg Installed
 
1983 R100RT Install Handlebar Perches, Switches & Cables

I installed the handlebars, perches, switch assemblies and routed the cables. Since I am converting the RS to and RT configuration, the switch wiring and cables are RT length.

You can read about how I do this work here:
<ul>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/32-bmw-r100rt-install-handlebar-perch-assemblies/">32 BMW R100RT Install Handlebar Perch Assemblies</a></li>
</ul>
I also made a video showing where I routed the cables.


<strong>VIDEO: <em><span style="text-decoration: underline;">1983 BMW R100RS Routing Handlebar Perch Cables & Wires</span></em></strong>

Some pictures of the work.

<a title="Right Handlebar Control Hardware" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50114411377/in/album-72157715090124283/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50114411377_b2577cc351_c.jpg" alt="Right Handlebar Control Hardware" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Right Handlebar Control Hardware

<a title="Left Perch And Switches Installed" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50114038431/in/album-72157715090124283/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50114038431_db3f82b78e_c.jpg" alt="Left Perch, Cables And Switches Installed" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Left Perch, Cables And Switches Installed

<a title="Right Perch with Front Brake Master Cylinder and Parts" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50117812356/in/album-72157715090124283/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50117812356_8e92d65069_c.jpg" alt="Right Perch with Front Brake Master Cylinder and Parts" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Right Perch with Front Brake Master Cylinder and Parts

<a title="Throttle Cam Cover Captures Throttle Cable And Is Secured By Large Screw" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50132706328/in/album-72157715090124283/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50132706328_2abee327e1_c.jpg" alt="Right Perch, Cables & Switches Installed" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Right Perch, Cables & Switches Installed

<a title="Handlebar And Controls Installed" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50119681296/in/album-72157715090124283/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50119681296_8864f9e19c_c.jpg" alt="Handlebar, Perches, Cables And Switches Installed" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Handlebar, Perches, Cables And Switches Installed
 
1983 R100RS Shim Oil Filter Canister, Install Oil Cooler & Filter

On this model/year bike, it's critical to shim the oil filter canister correctly to avoid loss of oil to the engine. I show how I do that. I also show how I install the oil cooler, thermostat-oil filter cover, and the shims and o-rings to properly seal the cover and oil filter canister.
<ul>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/11-bmw-1983-r100rs-shim-oil-filter-canister-install-oil-cooler-filter/">11 BMW 1983 R100RS Shim Oil Filter Canister, Install Oil Cooler & Filter</a></li>
</ul>
Here is a short video summary of how I do this work.


<strong>VIDEO: <em><span style="text-decoration: underline;">1983 BMW R100RS Shim Oil Filter Canister, Install Oil Cooler & Filter</span></em></strong>

Here are some pictures of the work.

<a title="Oil Filter Parts Detail" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50171100421/in/album-72157715298316701/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50171100421_e8dcb8e3f9_c.jpg" alt="Oil Filter Parts Detail" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Oil Filter Parts Detail

<a title="Canister Shim Calculation-#0" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50170904576/in/album-72157715298316701/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50170904576_d3e6d22b55.jpg" alt="Simple Spreadsheet To Determine The Required Number Of Shims" width="500" height="418" /></a>
Simple Spreadsheet To Determine The Required Number Of Shims

<a title="Cleaned Up Oil Cooler And Hoses" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50171162667/in/album-72157715298316701/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50171162667_4724f118d2_c.jpg" alt="Cleaned Up Oil Cooler And Hoses" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Cleaned Up Oil Cooler And Hoses

<a title="Cleaned Up Oil Cooler" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50170359468/in/album-72157715298316701/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50170359468_e71b575e4e_c.jpg" alt="Oil Cooler Installed On Frame Tube" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Oil Cooler Installed On Frame Tube

<a title="Oil Filter Cover With Built In Oil Cooler Thermostate" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50171285037/in/album-72157715298316701/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50171285037_23a4eb0c3a_c.jpg" alt="Oil Cooler Hoses Attached To Oil Filter Cover With Built In Oil Cooler Thermostat" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Oil Cooler Hoses Attached To Oil Filter Cover With Built In Oil Cooler Thermostat

<a title="Oil Cooler, Filter and Filter Cover Installed" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/50170358618/in/album-72157715298316701/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" data-flickr-embed="true"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50170358618_4dbd287a14_c.jpg" alt="Oil Cooler, Filter and Filter Cover Installed" width="800" height="600" /></a>
Oil Cooler, Filter and Filter Cover Installed
 
Last edited:
1983 R100RS/RT Install Electrical System & Test

I'm converting this bike from and RS to an RT model, so there are some changes associated with the RT model, but the electrical system changes are limited to changes in cable lengths for the handlebar switches.

This document references other documents previously published as well as containing new material.

  • <a href="https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/61-bmw-1983-r100rs-rt-install-electrical-system/">61 BMW 1983 R100RS/RT Install Electrical System</a></li>
The idea is to consolidate information about how I install the electrical system on the bike in one place. I also include the results of my testing of the electrical system, the problems I found and how I fixed them. I hope this is helpful.

Here is the Table of Contents
<ul class="toc_list">
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/?page_id=8700&preview=true#Main_Harness_Handlebar_Switch_Wiring">Main Harness & Handlebar Switch Wiring</a></li>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/?page_id=8700&preview=true#Charging_System_Ignition_System">Charging System & Ignition System</a></li>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/?page_id=8700&preview=true#Starter_Relay">Starter Relay</a></li>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/?page_id=8700&preview=true#Voltage_Regulator">Voltage Regulator</a></li>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/?page_id=8700&preview=true#Fairing_Sub-Harness">Fairing Sub-Harness</a></li>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/?page_id=8700&preview=true#Ignition_Switch">Ignition Switch</a></li>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/?page_id=8700&preview=true#Horns">Horns</a></li>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/?page_id=8700&preview=true#Battery_Box_Battery">Battery Box & Battery</a></li>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/?page_id=8700&preview=true#Rear_Brake_Light_Switch_Sub-Harness">Rear Brake Light Switch & Sub-Harness</a></li>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/?page_id=8700&preview=true#Auxiliary_Power_Outlet_Sub-Harness">Auxiliary Power Outlet & Sub-Harness</a></li>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/?page_id=8700&preview=true#Tail_Light_Brake_Light_Rear_Turn_Signals_Sub-Harness">Tail Light, Brake Light & Rear Turn Signals & Sub-Harness</a></li>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/?page_id=8700&preview=true#Testing_Electrical_System">Testing Electrical System</a>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/?page_id=8700&preview=true#Electrical_Problems_Resolution">Electrical Problems & Resolution</a>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/?page_id=8700&preview=true#Turn_Signals">Turn Signals</a></li>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/?page_id=8700&preview=true#Low_Beam">Low Beam</a></li>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/?page_id=8700&preview=true#Rear_Brake_Light">Rear Brake Light</a></li>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/?page_id=8700&preview=true#Front_Brake_Switch">Front Brake Switch</a></li>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/?page_id=8700&preview=true#Rear_Brake_Light_Switch">Rear Brake Light Switch</a></li>
<li><a href="https://brook.reams.me/?page_id=8700&preview=true#Clutch_Switch">Clutch Switch</a></li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
 
 
Brook -

I might have missed some of the explanation in the video, but at one point you say that "you hardly ever use" the gasket. I think the use of the gasket is driven by what the canister depth is. In fact, I use two gaskets on my /7 installation (no cooler) because my canister depth is in the neighborhood of 2.5-2.6mm. So, the gasket is not used as an oil seal...I believe there is very little pressure of oil and in fact the large white o-ring is doing all the oil sealing in this situation. Thus the gasket is another form of a spacer, moving the filter cover out from the block. For me, if I didn't use any gaskets, my white o-ring would be completely squished if not cut, thus destroying its effectiveness.

To me the general rule might be that if your canister depth is less than 3mm, a gasket (or two) are likely needed along with one shim. If the canister depth is from about 3-3.5mm, you can probably use no gasket and one shim. When you get beyond a depth of 3.5mm, you begin to get into the multiple shim regime (and still no gasket) as was the case with your setup.

The canister depth is something to monitor over time. I haven't heard a rash of situations where the depth is changing, but if it is, then it needs to be investigated. Also the arrangement of items needs to be reconsidered. I usually look at the white o-ring upon removal and ensure that it has a reasonable "squared-off shape" indicating that it had been squished a bit during installation. If the o-ring was basically still round, or if it was cut, then that would be a problem.

Here was my pictorial on my /7 a little over a year ago:

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?95493-R100-7-Filter-Change-A-Pictorial
 
20774 said:
Brook -

I might have missed some of the explanation in the video, but at one point you say that "you hardly ever use" the gasket. I think the use of the gasket is driven by what the canister depth is. In fact, I use two gaskets on my /7 installation (no cooler) because my canister depth is in the neighborhood of 2.5-2.6mm. So, the gasket is not used as an oil seal...I believe there is very little pressure of oil and in fact the large white o-ring is doing all the oil sealing in this situation. Thus the gasket is another form of a spacer, moving the filter cover out from the block. For me, if I didn't use any gaskets, my white o-ring would be completely squished if not cut, thus destroying its effectiveness.

To me the general rule might be that if your canister depth is less than 3mm, a gasket (or two) are likely needed along with one shim. If the canister depth is from about 3-3.5mm, you can probably use no gasket and one shim. When you get beyond a depth of 3.5mm, you begin to get into the multiple shim regime (and still no gasket) as was the case with your setup.

The canister depth is something to monitor over time. I haven't heard a rash of situations where the depth is changing, but if it is, then it needs to be investigated. Also the arrangement of items needs to be reconsidered. I usually look at the white o-ring upon removal and ensure that it has a reasonable "squared-off shape" indicating that it had been squished a bit during installation. If the o-ring was basically still round, or if it was cut, then that would be a problem.

Here was my pictorial on my /7 a little over a year ago:

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?95493-R100-7-Filter-Change-A-Pictorial
Click to expand...

Hi Kurt,

My comment is based on the BMW specification for the range of the oil canister depth. That said, the canister depth can be too high, as your situation, or too low, as in my situation. But my understanding is a too high canister is not common.

And you reinforce the point that one ought to check the depth and compute the correct shims. And if the canister is less than 3 mm depth, add a cover gasket.

Best.
Brook.
 
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