r1100r ignition switch fault

I've done a bit of searching but can't find anything much on fixing what seems to be a major fault in my ignition switch. I was scheduled to go with 4 buddies to AK (yes all the way to Prudhoe Bay). Instead, I'm pulling my hair out trying to get my headlights (both hi and low to work. Actually glad it happened near home instead of the haul road or some other equally desolate place in the itinerary.

I've found a couple of places that describe a recall for my model and vintage of 11r ('95 built in 10/94 one of the first batch). So, I'm going to contact the dealer. But in the mean time, I'm wondering where I can get info on whether I can replace the electrical part of the switch and still retain my key barrel. So it still matches seat release, bags, helmet lock, etc.

I know the manuals say you have to remove the upper bridge, but I'm wondering if anyone knows if you can switch the wiring part out with the assembly still in place.

Thanks for any wisdom, sources you may have.

hmdalton said:

I've done a bit of searching but can't find anything much on fixing what seems to be a major fault in my ignition switch. I was scheduled to go with 4 buddies to AK (yes all the way to Prudhoe Bay). Instead, I'm pulling my hair out trying to get my headlights (both hi and low to work. Actually glad it happened near home instead of the haul road or some other equally desolate place in the itinerary.

I've found a couple of places that describe a recall for my model and vintage of 11r ('95 built in 10/94 one of the first batch). So, I'm going to contact the dealer. But in the mean time, I'm wondering where I can get info on whether I can replace the electrical part of the switch and still retain my key barrel. So it still matches seat release, bags, helmet lock, etc.

I know the manuals say you have to remove the upper bridge, but I'm wondering if anyone knows if you can switch the wiring part out with the assembly still in place.

Thanks for any wisdom, sources you may have.

Click to expand...

A common failure that causes this is the grounding wire that is in common for the high and low beam. The contact and wire get corroded underneath the bulb assembly.

Check and see if the high beam indicator lamp is on when you turn the key on.

Roger 04 RT said:

A common failure that causes this is the grounding wire that is in common for the high and low beam. The contact and wire get corroded underneath the bulb assembly.

Check and see if the high beam indicator lamp is on when you turn the key on.

Click to expand...

I found the problem. Your suggestion headed me in the right direction. The wire from the ign. switch to the connector had a slight ground fault that occurred at the place where a plate underneath the fork plate on the left had chafed the wire bundle it was in. I fixed the wire, wrapped the bundle with extra thick tape and everything works like a champ.

Electrical gremlins while often simple, are usually very hard to flush out. Your suggestion gave me another way to look at things.

Thanks.

Heck, you don't need a headlight up in AK anyway, as long as you get back before September.

AntonLargiader said:

Heck, you don't need a headlight up in AK anyway, as long as you get back before September.

Click to expand...

Good Point. I just don't like being in the dark (pun intended) when it comes to the way my bike is working.

Looks like I'm not going to make it to AK this time -- I'm really bummed in a thankful way -- because another problem has arisen and this one is a show-stopper: on the way to get my new Heidenaus mounted for gripping the Alaskan gravel, I stopped for traffic, the oil lite came on, so I stayed put, revved the bike gently (to about 2300 - 2400rpm) before the light went out. I decided to turn around and go home, so I could check the oil pressure with a gauge. I'm very thankful I did -- only about 35 psi @ 4k rpm. NOT GOOD! However, I'm also really thankful that didn't happen out in the boonies of moose and grizzly land.

I think I'll start another thread about the oil pressure issue, because it looks like I'm gonna have to pull the jugs and see what the rod bearings look like.

BTW, Anton, your simple, straightforward method of adjusting oilhead valves works really well -- especially the "spin technique" with the hex wrench. I first started doing that when I was setting up super vee race engines way back when (early '70's). As long as you keep counter-tension on the wrench so it stays in place, its foolproof.
Thanks for all the good stuff on your website.